Dremmel Tool for Grinding/Sharpening Hollow and Round Plane Blades?

[Mike Allen1010]

I am trying to tune up a couple old molding planes for my first attempt at hand planing some simple moldings for current project. So far my efforts are convincing me maybe my electric router bit profiles wouldn't look so bad after all!

I read Matt Bickford's book and I understand it's important to make sure the soles are straight and the blades ground to the correct profile matching the soles.

Can I use a Dremel tool to grind/sharpen the primary bevel on the H&R plane blades?

I have cylinderical bits for the Dremel tool that are pink, green and black and look like they are some kind of stone/abrasive material I could potentially used for grinding/polishing steel but I can't really tell how coarse or fine the abrasive is and I'm reluctant to experiment for fear of ending up with --"I tried to fix it and now it's worse". Any idea if I should try these bits and in what order I should use them?

In Bickford's book he uses a very narrow grinding wheel for the concave cutting edge of the "hollow" plane irons. I'm not sure where I could get one of those, but if that is the best way to go I would be willing to give it a try.

I very much appreciate any advice or suggestions! Stop me before I route again...

Thanks, Mike

[David Weaver]

I personally don't like dremels for anything like that. The grind stones can be bought at industrial supply houses and used in a drill press or a lathe chuck with better effect than a dremel tool, especially if you work them only to the edge and work the very edge with slips.

[Matt Bickford]

I used a dremel a lot when I was tuning my first antiques. I didn't have another option in my basement. I clamped the dremel in my face vise at the proper angle and set up a surface around the bit upon which I registered the irons. I used this to grind a primary bevel (after grinding the desired profile at 90 degrees) and then did the rest on stones. I proceeded to go through about $6 in bits every 10 minutes. It worked, but I soon searched for other options.

This new search led me to using thin cutoff wheels on my grinder that were threaded the same. This method is a lot faster, but you need to stay far away from the edge. I still use a cutoff wheel for bulk stock removal.

I now use a wheel that I purchased from toolsforworkingwood (http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TH/item/NO-EXTRAG.XX/Norton_Extra-Thin_Grinding_Wheels). You'll save a lot of time and money with this method, even if you need to purchase a new grinder that has a 1/2" arbor.

[george wilson]

You can easily bore out a grinding wheel if you have a metal lathe. Put the wheel in the lowest speed,and select an OLD drill the size you need. The drill will drill right through the wheel by crushing the grains. Best to use an old drill,because the drill will also suffer a bit,and get tapered if used much in this fashion.

[Mike Allen1010]

David, George and Matt, thanks a lot for the suggestions on grinding Moulding plane blades.

Matt, I've got my order in for the narrow width grinding wheel you mentioned at TFWW-- it seems like this will be an essential piece of kit for helping me get started tuning molding planes. There is nothing more discouraging for me than trying a new woodworking technique with tools that aren't up to the task-- I struggle enough with my limited ability!

Matt, I loved your book. I've always wanted to incorporate some more complex moldings into my casework but never thought I would be able to stick the moldings I wanted with hand planes. Your book is given me the encouragement and coaching to give it a try. In fact, the moldings I'm attempting are blown up copies right out of your book.I highly recommend your book to anyone interested in learning how to create their own hand cut moldings!

Matt, someday I would love to own some of your planes, just not in the budget right now. I'm glad to see on your website that you're offering individual pairs of hollows and rounds and quarter sets. Given my budget, this makes it more feasible for me to start building my own kit of moulding planes over time. Thanks for everything you've done to make this aspect of hand tool woodworking accessible to woodworkers like me!

All the best,Mike

[Tony Shea]

I found an older narrow grinding wheel at the Tool Barn here in Bar Harbor that has been essential in grinding hollows to the right shape. I would hate to have been stuck with a dremel tool and the very soft grinding stones that are used in them.

If you do use the dremel be sure to clamp the tool stationary and bring the blade to the tool. Much more control this way.