Huge Dilemma.....Ridgid Tools

[Justin Jump]

So, for @ a year now, I've been building my workshop and I am basically done, except for some little things, but major construction is complete.

I've also been saving up to go to Grizzly and pick up the essentials, table saw, planer, jointer, band saw, drill press, etc.....

Here's the dilemma.....

There is a local Ridgid Outlet Store that sells mainly refurbed tools, most have only 1 year warranty, some they give you a 3 year warrany, and every now and then, they have new tools in which you get the LSA....

The dilemma is this weekend, they are having a 30% off Sale, and except for the planer and jointer which is refurb, they have NEW for everything else, even the 12" sliding miter saw.......

AT $2,000 for all this, throw in the $600 off for the 30% discount, I could come home today with just about everything to get my EMPTY shop up and running for @ $1,400 plus tax.....

My only real concern is the table saw - I sold myself on a 3HP cabinet saw. I'm wondering if I can convince myself that "Hey, might as well just get everything, and if you don't like the table saw, sell it, and then get the 3HP cabinet saw.....

Tempting no???

[Ole Anderson]

Hold off for the 3 hp cabinet TS, you won't regret it. It will be the mainstay of your shop.

[scott spencer]

You didn't specify which Ridgid saw, but I wouldn't even give a portable jobsite saw a thought as a replacement for a 3hp cabinet saw if you don't need to....you've come along way to get to this point. A full size contractor saw or hybrid will certainly make the cuts and is capable of good work. With that said, there's really no comparison with a 3hp industrial style cabinet saw. The sheer mass, power, function of the hand wheels, precision, overall robustness, etc.....everything works like it should and then some. They're much more of a pleasure to use, and there's a lot less worry about pushing it too hard. It really boils down to how you view the significance of a good TS in your shop.

[Buck Williams]

In my mind I'd say go for the deal, if you can get set up now with a table saw, jointer, planer, DP and BS for that price go for it. You can get started with a pretty well set up shop, with the exception of the band saw, all of those Rigid tools have a good solid reputation, you should be able to start using your shop and bide your time looking for deals on Craigslist etc and slowly upgrade. I'm satisfied with my Rigid TS and jointer. Good Luck

[Justin Jump]

The table saw at the Outlet is the 4512, with the cast iron top. $499. Same as Home Depot, but then thrown in the 30% off.

[scott spencer]

The table saw at the Outlet is the 4512, with the cast iron top. $499. Same as Home Depot, but then thrown in the 30% off.

I suppose there's not much of a financial downside with the R4512 at $350 if it doesn't have the alignment issue that plagued many of the earlier models. The alignment would shift when the blade had changed....you can probably check that in the store before you leave.

[Joseph Tarantino]

I suppose there's not much of a financial downside with the R4512 at $350 if it doesn't have the alignment issue that plagued many of the earlier models. The alignment would shift when the blade height had changed....you can probably check that in the store before you leave.

apologies for interjecting, but isn't this a little more accurate? regarding checking whether a saw has the indicated problem, i'd bring a dial gauge (or comparable) instrument and some way to affix it in the miter slot. the problem was that the alignment of the blade relative to the miter slot would change as the height of the blade above the table changed. if the blade were 1" above the table, it could be properly aligned. however, raising it to full height, or anything in between, would change the relationship of the blade to the miter slot.

[Geoff Barry]

I think the question is - how much woodworking have you done? If you're just starting, the Ridgid stuff is fine. Other than the BS, it's decent low-end stuff, and you'll save a LOT of money. In a little while, you may find that you'll want a real cabinet saw, or a 15" cast iron planer, or an 8" jointer (or even a 12" euro-style planer/joiner), but starting off with the ridgid tools, you save a lot of money out of the gate, and can upgrade one at a time. If you're patient on CL, you can find some great deals, and with the 30% off, you'll recoup a large part of what you paid when you unload the rigid tools on CL. If, on the other hand, you've already been woodworking for a while, you'll be dissatisified with the ridgid tools out of the gate when you start comparing them to what you might have gotten :)

[Mike Henderson]

A lot of people started with contractor saws. I started with a Craftsman contractor saw. It's tough to bite off everything at one time. Most people buy a bit at a time as they have the money. At $350 for the saw (if it works well), you can do very good work and when you're ready to upgrade to a SawStop (for safety) you can sell it for about what you have in it.

Mike

[Paul McGaha]

Just my $.02 but I'd stick with the cabinet saw.

PHM

[Alan Bienlein]

For that price you need to jump on it and get to wood working.

I don't go for that philosophy of wait to get all old tools. If you do that you'll just get frustrated from not having what you need to get the job done.

As for the cabinet saw I haven't missed having one one bit and I work on one every day at work and even on the large 10' sliders. Never felt the need to upgrade from my Ridgid TS3650 contractor saw.

I started with their 12" chop saw, 6" jointer, 13" planer and the TS3650 contractor saw. I've upgraded the chop saw to a 12" hitachi slider and sold the saw for $150. The jointer was upgraded to a 8" grizzly GO586 and sold the Ridgid jointer for $200. Still have the table saw and the surface planer.

[tyler mckee]

Depends on your plans, all the ridged tools would probably be 100% adequate for a small hobby shop. Worst case you can get up and running for cheap and as you want to upgrade you will still be able to sell the ridged tools for what you paid. How about dust collection?

[paul cottingham]

My woodworking "mentor" makes some pretty darn nice stuff with a saw nowhere as nice as that Rigid. The other nice thing is that if you become a neander at some point, you wont have a ton of expensive equipment sitting around. I'm mostly hand tools now, so the mid-range power I bought meets my needs very well. The one thing i would definitely have spent more money on is a bandsaw.
YMMV of course.

[Carl Beckett]

Buy it all

Build a bunch of stuff

Read, learn, get some hand tools, lumber

Build a bunch more stuff

Then upgrade what you feel is limiting

[Myk Rian]

I don't go for that philosophy of wait to get all old tools. If you do that you'll just get frustrated from not having what you need to get the job done.
I bought new at first. Then upgraded with old as I found out how terrible the new tools were.

[Alan Bienlein]

I bought new at first. Then upgraded with old as I found out how terrible the new tools were.

But I bet it got you working in the mean time and could then upgrade at your leisure.

Right now in my area there's a 8" powermatic jointer with a byrd cutter head and a 12" parks planer on craigs list for a reasonable price but I see no reason to get them as my grizzly 8" jointer works just fine and my 13" Ridgid planer does everything I've ever needed it to do.

[Cary Falk]

There is something to be said about being able to build something now. It also helps you to figure out what you want in a particular tool. The good thing about geting a contractor saw first is that you will appreciate the cabinet saw even more.

[Anthony Diodati]

did you see this review of the tablesaw?
http://furnitude.blogspot.com/search/label/Ridgid%20R4512

[Michael Moscicki]

At $350 for the Ridgid, you could look for an old Unisaw, if you're up for restoring it. Just check your local criagslist.

[Bruce Mack]

I have the Ridgid 3660 with a Forrest blade and aftermarket miter gauge. Adjustment with a dial indicator was straightforward and my blade alignment is within .003 inches of the miter slot. The wood is 4/4 to 6/4 for the most part. I don't think anyone could look at the rips or crosscuts and say they are deficient. Remember your work depends more on your craftsmanship and personal tolerances than on the initial saw cut. The Townsends of Newport did a fair job with a lot less than I have.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

I basically started with much of the same equipment (minus the BS). The only piece that is still in the shop is the planer - mostly because I do not have the space for a 15" cast iron one. I paid about the same total for everything with the TS3650 being the only machine I bought at new price. Everything else was new but at closeout prices at the BORG.

I did not lose a dime when I traded up. In some cases I made a little. And everything worked just fine. You will not be disappointed, and like others have said, you will find out what you really want in the power tool area without losing any money.

I say go for it.

[Justin Jump]

Well, I made the hour or so drive last night, "just to look"......

Not sure exactly what happened, after I got to the store, the next thing I remember I had 3 store employees loading the truck.

I got the table saw, jointer, planer, drill press and even the band saw even though all the reviews about the band saw. I even picked up a refurbed 10" sliding miter saw with 3 year warranty.

I do know this....

1. This stuff is HEAVY, don't count on your druken brother and your wife to unload this stuff, especially at 10 at night.
2. I will be assembling for the next week.

THX

JJ in Pittsburgh

[Rich Engelhardt]

and even the band saw even though all the reviews about the band saw.If you can find it, Michael Fortune wrote an excellent tutorial on how to tune up the Ridgid bandsaw. I recall reading it a few years ago. It's just a few simple steps/things that eliminate most, if not all, the things that cause the negative comments about the 14" Ridgid. Since you have to assemble the saw, it might be wise to go do any modifications now.
FWIW - in the article I read, he (Michael Fortune) said the 14" Ridgid is his "go to" saw for 90% of his work.

Another FWIW - I feel you made the wise choice by getting what you need now to get going. Making sawdust is a whole lot more fun than scanning the web for endless hours searching for that elusive used machine.

[Tim Morton]

Well, I made the hour or so drive last night, "just to look"......

Not sure exactly what happened, after I got to the store, the next thing I remember I had 3 store employees loading the truck.

I got the table saw, jointer, planer, drill press and even the band saw even though all the reviews about the band saw. I even picked up a refurbed 10" sliding miter saw with 3 year warranty.

I do know this....

1. This stuff is HEAVY, don't count on your druken brother and your wife to unload this stuff, especially at 10 at night.
2. I will be assembling for the next week.

THX

JJ in Pittsburgh

nice job!!! Glad you pulled the trigger!!! You do relaize that pictures are a must within 24 hours or your account will be suspended...:)

[Carl Beckett]

Dontcha just love Christmas time!!!??

Have fun!

[Justin Jump]

To be in compliance with the 24 hour picture rule, heres the TS.243703

[Andrew DiLorenzo]

I have seen Delta 3 hp cabinet saws on Craig's list for far less than $1000. You can upgrade later and set the ridgid saw to face the other and share an outfeed table. The Delta saws have often been regarded as one of the best in its class, but sell for about 3 grand new. Have you given any thought to starting with hand tools?

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

I doubt you will have any regrets.
Enjoy!

[Alan Bienlein]

To be in compliance with the 24 hour picture rule, heres the TS.243703

Actually you got three tools in one picture as I also see the surface planer and the chop saw.

You did very well. Every one thinks you need a unisaw to make things but I wouldn't trade my Ridgid TS3650 contractor saw for one. And yes I have many years experience using/ cutting on a unisaw and you aren't missing out on anything.

[Greg Portland]

My woodworking "mentor" makes some pretty darn nice stuff with a saw nowhere as nice as that Rigid. The other nice thing is that if you become a neander at some point, you wont have a ton of expensive equipment sitting around. I'm mostly hand tools now, so the mid-range power I bought meets my needs very well. The one thing i would definitely have spent more money on is a bandsaw.
YMMV of course.
+1. IMO, it is enough to get a decent starter set of equipment... calibration (easily done with some feeler gauges) and a good blade are much more critical.

[Joseph Tarantino]

If you can find it, Michael Fortune wrote an excellent tutorial on how to tune up the Ridgid bandsaw. I recall reading it a few years ago. It's just a few simple steps/things that eliminate most, if not all, the things that cause the negative comments about the 14" Ridgid. Since you have to assemble the saw, it might be wise to go do any modifications now.
FWIW - in the article I read, he (Michael Fortune) said the 14" Ridgid is his "go to" saw for 90% of his work.

Another FWIW - I feel you made the wise choice by getting what you need now to get going. Making sawdust is a whole lot more fun than scanning the web for endless hours searching for that elusive used machine.

that was in october, 2006 issue of wood magazine. i didn't believe the article and emailed michael fortune. his reply is here:

"I absolutely stand by my opinion on the Rigid band saw. It is hard to tell if it is running it is so quiet and vibration free (if there is a radio playing). I can stand a nickel on edge.

Don't over tension it, use the blades suggested and beef up the platform. I have six bandsaws. I run an very well equipped workshop. Look at my web site www.michaelfortune.com (http://www.michaelfortune.com/) , the most frequently used machine to make that furniture is the lowly bandsaw."

[mreza Salav]

I had a contractor saw and the quality of my work coming off that isn't any different from my bigger cabinet saw. If the choice is between getting a contractor saw now and starting working with it vs getting a cabinet saw much later I'd say get the contractor saw. Surely a cabinet saw is better but it's much better to have a good saw to work with than waiting for a better saw.

[Kevin Cehelsky]

Justin,

You in the Pittsburgh area? They had the same sale at Tanger Outlets is Washington PA. My wife and I took a look there and also noticed the 30% off sale. I was in the market for a jointer (I am also frequently up in the Williamsport area so I also have access to the Grizzly outlet). So it was either the Grizzly 6'' or Ridgid 6'' jointer. The 30% sale was the icing on the cake.

Indeed the jointer is heavy. I managed to take it out of my truck alone, not sure how I managed that.

Good luck.

-Kevin

[Justin Jump]

@ Kevin - that's exactly where I went, about an hour away....

I had been saving, and after depleting my budget on the addition to my house to allow for the workshop, my original plan of a mecca to Grizzly to "load up" was starting to fade, and once I heard that the Outlet store was having a 30% off - couldnt pas it up.....

To all the others - new post in the Workshop forum with updated pics.