Restoring 14" Original Saw, (Dewalt), radial arm saw

[Sam Layton]

I have started restoring my 14" Original Saw Co, radial arm saw. The arm of the saw says Original Saw Co, and the motor says Dewalt. I am in the process of disassembling the saw. I have removed the yoke and motor assemble. Now I am trying to remove the motor from the yoke. There is a bolt on each side of the motor, that holds the motor to the yoke assemble. The bolts have screw slots. I am not able to remove the bolts. I have soaked them in liquid wrench, and used my impact driver to try to unscrew them. They do not budge. I am a little afraid to apply heat, in fear of overheating the motor.

243591

Does anyone have any idea of how to remove these bolts? What do you think about applying heat?

Thank you, Sam

[Andy Fox]

1. Apply liquid wrench to threads with the threads below the heads (help from gravity), tap hard with hammer periodically, try to remove bolts.
2. If that doesn't work, repeat step 1 until the bolts come loose or you lose your patience with them. :D

Try tightening the bolts very slightly once in a while

If this doesn't work after a day or two, maybe try one of the manual impact wrenches--the kind which you strike with a hammer.

[HANK METZ]

A draglink socket is what you need:
243596

You'll also have to put an extension pipe on the end of your breaker bar to get enough torque to spin it off. Take care to center it lest you turn a burr on the outer edge of the pivot bolt, it is an extremely precision ground part and even a hint of upset will prevent re- insertion.

- Beachside Hank
Improvise, adapt, overcome; the essence of true craftsmanship.

[Larry Edgerton]

Sam

I have an old fashioned hammer impact around that I use in just that situation. Its about the only thing they are good for. You know, the kind you strike with a hammer? They put downforce and rotational force in equal amounts at the same instant and actually work very well for what you have there. They are pretty cheap, about 10-15 for a import. Some come with bits like Hank posted.

My second choice would be drilling the head off of the bolt, then drilling the center of the bolt out and remove the rest with an easy out. But the first choice is much easier!

Larry

[Sam Layton]

Thank you everyone for your suggestions.

Andy,
I tried 1. and 2. a few times with no luck. I remember years ago about using a manual impact. I forgot all about them.

Hank,
A drag link socket is exactly what I need. I have never seen such a socket. Today I am going to the auto supply and pick one up, along with a hammer impact.

Larry,
I remember using a hammer impact years ago, but I forgot all about them. Today, I am going to get one.

I will let you know how it goes.

Thanks again, Sam

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Sam
I used heat to free the same bolt on my GWI. Apply the heat with a butane torch for about 20 sec. This will keep the heat centered around bolt treads and not the motor case. I like a very large screwdriver so I can use my body weigh to keep screwdriver blade in bolt slot and not cam out, with a large crescent wrench or pipe wrench to apply turning force. Keep us posted on your progress. Tom

[Luther Oswalt]

Use this product and you will like it! http://www.homedepot.com/buy/pb-blaster-11-oz-penetrating-catalyst-lubricant-16pb-thd.html
Leo

[Warren Johnson]

Use this product and you will like it! http://www.homedepot.com/buy/pb-blaster-11-oz-penetrating-catalyst-lubricant-16pb-thd.html
Leo

I've used PB Blast before and it seemed to work pretty good.

[Bill White]

I have the hammer impact driver left over from my motorcycle repair days. Those thingies really work well.
Bill

[Myk Rian]

I've used PB Blast before and it seemed to work pretty good.

I used to use PBB until I discovered a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF.

[Matt Meiser]

Alcohol, tobacco and firearms--the perfect solution! :D

[Sam Layton]

Just wanted to thank everyone for their suggestions. I clamped the motor to the bench. I used all of the following. PB blast, A drag link socket, an impact hammer, a long breaker bar, and what do you know, they both came loose. In the process I broke the impact hammer. I will take it back and get a better one.

Thanks again everyone, Sam

[Myk Rian]

I had to use the hammer impact on the Delta 900 I'm restoring. Those are some tough bolts to loosen.
Had the same deal on the DeWalt I restored.

[HANK METZ]

Glad it went well for you Sam. On your road to restoration, here's a link (http://people.delphiforums.com/perristalsis/DeWalt_Blade_Align/DeWalt_Blade_Alignment.htm)to the methods I use to setup the head and blade.

- Beachside Hank
Improvise, adapt, overcome; the essence of true craftsmanship.

[Sam Layton]

I telling you, those were some tough bolts to remove. I was beginning to doubt that I was going to be able to remove then. I don't care for the slotted design for the bolt head. I purchased the impact hammer from Harbor Fright. I ended up breaking it. However, it did work well while it was working. I am going to get a good one for future use.

Thomas, I was about ready to apply heat. That was my last resort. Luckily, the other steps worked.

Myk, I have acetone, and I am going to get some ATF, and try your mixture. I will have it on hand for future use.

Hank, thanks for the set up link. I have save it for future use.

Thank you everyone for your help, Sam

[Myk Rian]

Myk, I have acetone, and I am going to get some ATF, and try your mixture. I will have it on hand for future use.
The 2 fluids separate, so shake it good before use.

[Rick Potter]

Hey Sam,

Don't bother getting another impact wrench, I have one you can use. Haven't used it in years.

Rick

[Jim German]

Those hand impact drivers are a life saver. I've got a Craftsmen one I got a few years ago that has held up well.

[Sam Layton]

Thanks Rick,

I appreciate it. The Harbor Freight one I purchased worked really good until it broke.

Jim, I can see where the impact diver is very handy.

Sam

[Sid Matheny]

For problems later on: The “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

This last “shop brew” of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone appears to beat out the commercially prepared products costing far more.

[Sam Layton]

Thank for the info Sid. Very interesting how the "shop brew" is so much better than the commercial ones. I am gong to give it a try

Sam