Dewalt DW735 Thickness Planer

[John Little]

I bought a DW735 about a year ago and was very pleased with it until a week ago. I started to notice that it was cutting slightly deeper on the left side as I looked at the infeed. On wide stock I could detect almost a 1/64" difference between the left and right. Today I put gage on it and measured the difference of .020" measuring the blade to the table on the left versus the right side. I checked to make sure the head was tight, and changed blades to rule out bad blades, but no change. I have checked the manual and on the internet to see if there are any adjustments and it appears there are none. Something has drifed in the alignment but I can't find any damage or reason for the problem. Has anyone had similiar experience or any knowledge as to what has happened or how to correct it?
John L

[Roger Feeley]

I'm just shooting the dark here but try a test. Try making a pass after you have lowered the head and measure the difference. Then make a pass after you have raised the head. If the difference is different (awkward phrase), what you may have is slack in the linkage between the screws on the two sides. If the difference is the same, could there be something under the platen?

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I assume that this is true with, and without the extension wings. In other words, it is not the extension trays causing the problem.

Next, is the problem the tray, the head, or the entire assembly. Not clear how to test that, but the first thing that enters my mind is that perhaps the entire carriage is not aligned. I think that when you turn the main knob, it affects the lift at four locations (on the posts).

[Myk Rian]

I think that when you turn the main knob, it affects the lift at four locations (on the posts).
It does. There is a chain follower that can be tensioned. It's under the cover.

[John Little]

Thanks for your thoughts. I checked the tension on the chain drive that raises and lowers the head and compared it to another DW735 and they seem the same. Likewise I could not sense any difference between when it is raised into position or lowered into position My next effort is to follow up on Roger's post and check underneath and see if I can shim the platen. I see no distortion on the platen and using a straight edge it appears flat. If you come up with any other ideas please let me know. Thanks.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

So you have determined that the base appears to be flat. So, next, can you check to see if the carriage is parallel to the base? Like position it exactly 1/2" from a point on the base. Are all points exactly 1/2" as well? If that is parallel, then you know that it must be the cutters or the cutter assembly. it could be as simply as reseating a blade that has some sawdust or something.

[John Little]

Andrew, That is basically what I did earlier. I used my table saw alignment gage with a dial read out to .001" and measured the the edge of one of the knives on the left side down to the platen and then again on the right and found the .020" difference. That was confirmed by measuring the difference from side to side of stock before and after it was run through the planer. I haven't tried to check the carrage because I don't see any machined surfaces that would be accurate. It is clear the knives are off from side to side and as best I can tell the cutter head is a well. The cutter head bearings are fit into machined surfaces in the carrage without any way to adjust up or down. I believe the carrage is what has drifted out of alignment. I am beginning to believe the guides that ride on the jack screws on one side have slipped somehow. It seems my only recourse is to take it to the DeWalt repair facility and see if they can realign it.

[Kamil Czuba]

Make certain it's not the blades themselves by repeating that same procedure, but on the cutter assembly, not the blade. If this test is parallel, then you know it's the cutter. If on the assembly you are still 20 thau out, you can do the alignment yourself.

When you remove the cover, this is what it will look like. It's a bit of work to get it free and off, but you can do it.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/woodworking%20stuff/DSC02325.jpg

The small sprocket keeps tension on the chain. What MAY have happened, is that somehow the sprocket is slipping on the post. Try turing the handle while putting some pressure on the post/sprocket, and see if it slips.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/woodworking%20stuff/DSC02324.jpg

If everything looks ok, you can make the adjustment to get it perfect yourself. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, then DON'T touch it, lol. This adjustment requires at least an average amount of mechanical ability, which it seems you have. Take your time.

1) Use your dial gauge again to zero the one side.
2) Move the gauge to the other side, the one that's out.
3) Loosen the tensioner sprocket, and pull the chain free from ALL 4 corner sprockets.
4) The side that was set to 0, don't touch it.
5) Rotate the other side (front and rear) posts an equal amount to get your dial close to 0. Make sure you rotate them an equal amount, or you will throw the front to back allignment off too. Best way is to mark a reference for a tooth, and rotate 1-2 teeth at a time.
6) Put the gauge back on the good side, and make sure still at 0. If not at 0 (because you are making a change) then re-zero it.
7) Go back to bad side, and if still off, then keep making the adjustment. Keep repeating the check and adjust til you get it parallel.
8) Put the chain back on all 4 corner sprockets.
9) Put tension on the chain.
10) Raise and lower and check the allignment again. If nothing is slipping, it should remain perfect.

[Rick Potter]

Is it possible that one of the blades may be loose?

Rick Potter

[John Little]

Kamil, You just gave me the information I have been looking for. Thank you. The pictures are great. I had already looked at the tensioner but was concerned about the steps to take in adjusting it. Your help has been fantastic. As soon as I get the free time I will follow your instructions. Thanks again.
John L

[Myk Rian]

Great info, Kamil.
Thanks

[Ken Tucker]

Kimil ,dont have this problem .I do have this unit . and i wanted to thank you for taking the time with very clear instructions . you are a good person.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Kimil ,dont have this problem .I do have this unit . and i wanted to thank you for taking the time with very clear instructions . you are a good person.

+1 === I agree! Thanks

[Grant Wilkinson]

Kamil: I have this planer, but not this problem. I'll bookmark your excellent instructions for future use. Thanks much.

[Kamil Czuba]

No problem. That's what we're all here for. :)

[Tim Janssen]

I bookmarked this thread as well and came across it today and that made me wonder if John Little, the OP, resolved his problem.
Well John?
Regards,

Tim

[Harry Niemann]

I don't think a 1/64" is a great problem. Why don't you just turn the board around and run it thru again if your project requires precision?

[Martin Jodoin]

Kamil: I have this planer, but not this problem. I'll bookmark your excellent instructions for future use. Thanks much.
Same here, no problem so far with mine but i am sure your help will save many peoples lots of money. Thanks for those nice picture, it doesn't look hard to do.
Thanks