Buffing system ..

[Jordan Gilbert]

I always used to use eee ultra shine and then put hut crystal coat on and it seemed to work well . But I have come to the conclusion that hut really sucks the finish wears off in 2 seconds . I like very high gloss finish , I am wondering what I should get . Should I buy a penn state industries buffing system or is there some kind of other finish I could use . I have seen some people get sick finish on goblets and bowls and it really puzzles me .

[Jordan Gilbert]

I look at everything I turned 2-3 years ago and its just blah , except a snakewood pen thats ben touched like 2 times its a museum grade glass finish . Does any body have a picture of something they used a buffing wheel on that they can show me ?

[Michelle Rich]

Buffing is not a finish...EEE cream has wax in it..you will have to get that off before you put poly or varnish or lacquer on it.

[Scott Hackler]

What type of pieces are you turning? If you are doing pens and very small turnings, the EEE waxes defeat a CA (super glue) finish and are not recommended after the finish is on. Frankly a properly applied CA finish will look like glass and requires nothing else. IF you want to polish even further then the buffing systems will assist, but for the CA or an acrylic finish I would only buff with the white diamond wheel and absolutely NO wax.

If your looking at a high gloss finish for larger pieces, 5-10 coats of WOP (wipe on poly, high gloss) with a 400 grit sanding in between and then buffing with the red rouge wheel and then white diamond...will produce a deep glass like finish. Don't fall for the carnuba wax lure though. It really shows fingerprints. Spend a little money and but a small container of Ren Wax (conservator wax). Protection without fingerprints.

[Jordan Gilbert]

I look the idea of what your saying scott. I use ca glue for pens , so thats not my issue . Its more of stuff like goblets and bigger stuff like bowls and similar thing . Have specific brand of wipe on poly ? You sand the poly with 400 ? I have never heard anyone doing that . How to I apply the ren wax and when do I apply it ? Whats a rouge wheel ?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jordan.....most buffing systems come with 3 wheels of different make up. The cloth differs for different type of buffing compounds. One (linen)wheel is for "red rouge". It is the most abrasive and can actually be used to remove small imperfections in the wood prior to applying finish or can be used to take out brush marks etc in some types of finishes. The "white diamond" (linen and flannel) wheel is less abrasive and is used to polish....finishes...it can add luster to finishes.......the softest wheel(flannel) is the one typically used to apply carnuba wax.

Buffing takes a little practice and needs to be used judiciously but when used properly, it adds a remarkable luster to finishes already applied to turnings. You have to be careful while buffing as a buffing wheel can snatch a turning from your hand....bounce if off your lathe, the floor, a wall and the ceiling. I have had single instances where a turning hit all the previously mentioned surfaces in one "shot". Needless to say, the turning was destroyed.

Check out this video: http://www.woodcraft.com/Resources/video.aspx?id=493

[Richard Coers]

I look the idea of what your saying scott. I use ca glue for pens , so thats not my issue . Its more of stuff like goblets and bigger stuff like bowls and similar thing . Have specific brand of wipe on poly ? You sand the poly with 400 ? I have never heard anyone doing that . How to I apply the ren wax and when do I apply it ? Whats a rouge wheel ?

Everyone that has a quality high gloss finish does really fine sanding and buffing. There is no finish that is good with just finish application. You will always get dust nibs, bugs, orange peel, etc... in a drying finish and especially in a poly finish since it dries slowly. It's called finishing the finish.

[Scott Hackler]

....and if you don't lightly sand with 400 or 600 grit inbetween poly applications, it wont adhear to the previous layer. The biggest problem with WOP is the overnight wait to sand and recoat. I hate that.

Lacquer can give somewhat similar results, but it takes a whole lot more coats. But you can reapply layers without sanding as lacquer melts into itself. I would still lightly sand before buffing though.

Some folks have started using Woodturners Finish (WTF) and it builds and shines like poly but dries and can be reapplied within 15 minutes of each layer. But it's kinda expensive.

I have started moving towards multiple layers of Tung Oil finish (5-6) and buffing after 2 days of drying. It's not "high gloss", but I don't really care for high gloss. This finish is more like inbetween satin and semi gloss, but a really warm luster.

As far as the Ren Wax, it gets applied after all finishes and buffing is done. I apply it with a soft paper towel, let it sit for a minute and buff off with a soft cloth (or clean, soft paper towel).

[Kyle Iwamoto]

<p>
In addition to what everyone else said, I just started using shellac, (flakes + alcohol) just to try. HUT crystal coat is&nbsp;shellac based. It builds fast, and most important dries fast, if you&#39;re interested in a fast finish. It&#39;s not durable though, like the crystal coat. I have used over coats of WOP and WTF. They both do work well, to add protection that the&nbsp;shellac does not offer. WTF is water based, and cleans up easily, but as Scott said, it&#39;s a little pricey. I think I still prefer WOP. And that is not because I&#39;m cheap. Oh yeah, Ren wax over the buff coat, like Scott says. Makes a world of difference.</p>