Fabrication / Fixturing / Welding table build

[Steven Wayne]

I started building this table March 2010. I built it to support a 3' x 4' top with 4" overhang on all sides. Since then I have been keeping an eye out for a piece of thick plate or possibly a machine table to use for a top. If the plate worked out, I planned to drill and tap a grid of 1/2-13 holes so I can use commonly available milling machine clamps for fixtures and such.


The base is built out of 2"x3"x.125 tubing, like so..


http://lh6.ggpht.com/_7Sq3Jc5tMko/S6b-Hr11BOI/AAAAAAAAFQc/886w7eMMgn0/s800/IMG_1891.jpg


The bottom is similar, it will have an inset in the center of one long side so I can sit at the table and weld. This is the beginning of laying it out to see how things will look.


http://lh3.ggpht.com/_7Sq3Jc5tMko/S6b-ISS3oSI/AAAAAAAAFQg/jaDeMWS_5vw/s800/IMG_1894.jpg


When I built this it was my second welding project ever. I'm completely self taught. I used two pieces of 1' x 2' x 1" steel on top of my toolbox to put this together.


The casters are bolted to 3/8" plates welded to the bottom of the base, kinda like so:


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_7Sq3Jc5tMko/S6b-JbTwJ5I/AAAAAAAAFQo/yQISQhdgUDc/s800/IMG_1895.jpg



http://lh6.ggpht.com/_7Sq3Jc5tMko/S77HzbNOYUI/AAAAAAAAFRc/DSIB3A3xiIk/s800/IMG_1929.JPG


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_7Sq3Jc5tMko/S77H0gGnzcI/AAAAAAAAFRg/qCumfe4rmPs/s800/IMG_1930.jpg




I bought a portaband mount (http://www.swagoffroad.com/Porta_band_Modular_Mount_Product.html) from Troy at Swag Off Road (http://www.swagoffroad.com). At some point I plan to mount up some 2" receiver hitch tool holders. This will have the appropriate mount..




http://lh6.ggpht.com/_7Sq3Jc5tMko/S8C4F4k-ZEI/AAAAAAAAFSQ/WRQSl5DX7Ik/s800/IMG_1933.jpg


I used the table in the above form for the past 2.5 years. A week ago I spied this at a local scrap yard:


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_gUDwlftcHU/UHjSpeqz4HI/AAAAAAAAG2g/zmruM9NgmFk/s800/IMG_6506.jpg


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-auF0_LGDCpg/UHjSqK4rM3I/AAAAAAAAG2o/JW-vs4FUYjs/s800/IMG_6507.jpg


Negotiated a very good price for the table and it was mine. It had years of dried oil and chips protecting it from the elements. I scraped it off and power washed it prior to putting it in the shop.


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-t-IIHgmOqLQ/UHjSrfsGUFI/AAAAAAAAG24/av7_ZJ4ckvA/s800/IMG_6509.jpg


Here it is after a couple of hours cleaning out holes and working on the surface.


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mnKLCC64sAM/UHjSstG_LQI/AAAAAAAAG3I/_3AwdpUowB4/s800/IMG_6511.jpg


I'll get the other half cleaned up and the surface looking nice in the morning. Then, I need to do some finish welding on the base and prep it for some paint. I am really excited to finally have found a top for the table I started so long ago.


The top piece is 21" x 49" x 1-7/8". Every other hole is tapped 1/2-13.

Was in the shop late last night and tonight. I had some finish welding to take care of. I added 2"x2"x1/8" angle stringers between uprights on the left side and rear. Grinders hang really nicely from the angle.


Then I laid out mounting holes on some thicker 1/4" angle to screw the top down. Welded this across the front.


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F-fvOFPc2dc/UHpZPualLmI/AAAAAAAAG3g/4waea6i1wpg/s800/IMG_6514.jpg


At that point I set the top in place.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HbRQNaRKTio/UHpZQeqe2JI/AAAAAAAAG3o/Ta_DR9toxPg/s800/IMG_6515.jpg


It took a few hours to get the top cleaned up and all of the holes cleaned out. It made a huge mess, but they are clean now. I used my RO sander to lightly sand the top with WD-40 as a lubricant. It worked well. Used 100 then 150 then 220 grit. Very happy with the how it is turning out.


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HbRQNaRKTio/UHpZQeqe2JI/AAAAAAAAG3o/Ta_DR9toxPg/s800/IMG_6515.jpg


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PYfBwO3wFD0/UHpZUGZ6IuI/AAAAAAAAG4g/Fb5BTFcAbUA/s800/IMG_6526.jpg


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3UidSUFbSiQ/UHpZUXeL3sI/AAAAAAAAG4o/y_Blth-qF14/s800/IMG_6528.jpg


I've been undecided about the area under the table since I started building it. I'm considering building a drawer cabinet to fit under the table. I have a bunch of full extension ball bearing slides and 3/4" plywood. Would be really cool to make the drawers match the shape of the cutout in the base. As I type this, I am liking that idea more and more..


I'm holding off painting the base until after I've used it for a while and the rear section (where the 1" plate is currently sitting) is sorted out.

[Charles Lent]

It's looking good, but putting wood under where you weld isn't such a good idea. A spark dropped into a crack could start a fire that might not be detected immediately. I have managed to create several fires under my feet and around me while welding and grinding. Fortunately, I don't ever weld or grind (except TIG) indoors. Replace that plywood with a thin steel or aluminum plate and build those cabinets out of metal. Woodworking projects are great, but it's not a good idea to do them for welding areas.

Charley

[Steven Wayne]

I only have TIG. I have never had a problem with sparks from grinding. I made the shelf from plywood to act as a template and decided to leave it until I have a piece cut. Good advice. I'll sort out metal drawers.

[Keith Outten]

Nice work Steven,

I also design and build my own metal projects, everything from metal tables, stands, wagons, trailers and tractor implements.
I'm also a big fan of 2" receivers. I have them mounted on my mower, two on my Cub Cadet, one of the front rail of my trailer and obviously one on my van. I am about to change out the 6 by 6 wooden posts in my shop to 8" pipe so I can mount several 2" receivers to the pipe which will make it easier to bend iron sign hangers and other projects.
.

[Steven Wayne]

I still need to sort out my 2" receiver hitch mounts. I'd like at least two of them.

The reason I was considering building a drawer cabinet out of wood is yesterday I was about to make a wooden drawer to fit right under the top. When it is closed there is no real way for any sparks or heat to ever get to a drawer under the top. I may try it out today. I can build it in wood, see if I like it and then make a steel or aluminum one down the road if I need to change it out.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

That looks nice! Not that it is any better, but the metal fab guys in my shop went a different way. Just a really heavy, like 1000 pounds, flat plate topped table. It won't warp with a little heat because its so massive, and they tack jigs to the top rather than the holes. Just grind the slag and attachments off periodically.

[Steven Wayne]

This top is 1-7/8" thick. It won't warp. I really wanted to be able to use common milling table clamps for fixtures.


The 1" plate is an inch narrower than the big plate. I have a friend with a milling machine. We're sorting out everything it needs to hopefully get it all in one day on the mill. I want to square up both plates, put a small bevel on the edges and drill holes on the top to drop socket head cap screws into for mounting.


As far as attaching the 1" plates, I'd like to space them up to the level of the bigger section and mount them on slotted angle mounts on the frame. The slots would allow a t-nut to slide a couple of inches.


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YDR2INuSFmg/UHrxHlqzGPI/AAAAAAAAG48/WvghHlQzjLk/s800/IMG_6531.jpg

[ray hampton]

when you want to move the table and are backing the level screws out, do you use a long extension with a socket and handle ?

[Steven Wayne]

when you want to move the table and are backing the level screws out, do you use a long extension with a socket and handle ?

1-1/8 socket on a 1/2 drive ratchet. Works well.

[Steven Wayne]

Got things situated. I'll use it for a while and see how it goes before painting. First project is the frame for the wagon I'm building for my god daughter.


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tS-pXIavdK4/UHsrG6wh8NI/AAAAAAAAG5Q/IOpolhkslns/s800/IMG_6533.jpg