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Steve Mawson
10-08-2012, 9:05 PM
I have a 14" Ridgid bandsaw with a riser block. I am trying to resaw various widths of lumber mostly in the 1/8" to 1/4" wide. Have a new woodslicer blade but can not get it adjusted to cut straight. Blade is in the center of the upper wheel. Also have a Kreig fence and cool blocks for guides. The blade either goes toward the fence or away from the fence and takes the wood with it. I am about ready to give up. Any suggestions appreciated.

Jim Rimmer
10-09-2012, 1:50 PM
My suggestion (you will get others that may be more help) is get a copy of Duginski's book and go through the set up process he describes. http://www.amazon.com/New-Complete-Guide-Band-Saw/dp/1565233182/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1349804884&sr=1-1&keywords=duginski This book will help you get the most out of your BS

Myk Rian
10-09-2012, 1:56 PM
How wide is the blade? What tooth count is it?
I use a TimberWolf 1/2" x 3-4 tpi blade for re-sawing.
Use the flutter method to tension it.

Prashun Patel
10-09-2012, 2:04 PM
Is your fence adjusted for drift?

Carl Beckett
10-09-2012, 2:14 PM
Im not the expert, but since its drifting either direction I wonder if the tension is adequate?

If its a very wide blade at all.... needs lots of tension and your saw might not be able to handle it. A smaller blade width might give better tension/results?

James Conrad
10-09-2012, 2:17 PM
+2 on you getting Duginski's book, it is mostly geared towards the 14" bandsaw user.

There are a lot of factors that come into play when resawing: assuming your blade is good, is tracking and tensioned correctly and your guides are set up correctly - (if you are not sure, start from scratch - remove, clean, and lube the blade, inspect it, track and tension and then set your guides)

then check the following:

- Is the blade square to the table - front, back and both sides
- Have you checked for drift and adjusted your fence
- is your fence solid and does not flex when pressure placed upon it and is supporting almost the complete height of the wood and use stacked feather boards to keep the wood firm against the fence

It kinda sounds like part of it is blade tension.

With the cuts you are getting, are they straight up and down even when wandering and/or are you getting any barrel cutting? How tall is the material and what is it?

Jerry Thompson
10-09-2012, 2:36 PM
Steve;
Go to You Tube and do a search for Alex Snodgrass. Once one has one's BS setup right there is no need to adjust for drift nor be afraid to take it apart, clean it up and above all use it.
Watch the video it will change your BS abilities.

Bill White
10-09-2012, 3:27 PM
Any blade on the 14" saw that is wider than 1/2" is gonna be a bear to tension properly. What width blade are ya tryin'?
I have resawn wood on an 11" Magna/Shopsmith with a 1/2" Woodslicer with pretty good results. Cool Blocks, well adjusted, and properly tensioned.
I now have a Grizz 14" 0555LX, and won't use any blade wider than 1/2" 3tpi blade.
Have not experienced any drift worth any adjustment.
Just my story.
Bill

Steve Mawson
10-09-2012, 9:16 PM
Thanks for the help. Have 1/2" wood slicer blade that is new. I will check the tension

Joseph Tarantino
10-10-2012, 10:48 AM
when you're ready to throw in the towel, contact these guys:

http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2503852170104952478NfTEyS

one of the very best band saw guys in the US.

glenn bradley
10-10-2012, 1:08 PM
People have pretty well hit it all. A well known Bandsaw guru casually made the statement in an article that he wasn't worried about co-planer wheels and folks who don't want to deal with that have really jumped on the "co-planer wheels don't matter" bandwagon. I'm no expert but, can only say that I NEVER have to adjust for drift (even on my little used 10" Delta with fiberglas wheels) since assuring that my wheels are co-planer. Could just be a coincidence. I run my blades with low tension via the flutter method, including my Woodslicers and can swap blade sizes with adjustments only to tension and guides. This is very convenient because I can build or setup all my jigs for a straight cut and just go at it. I have not used a saw with a riser and understand that this may add to considerations. Increased tension can overcome some other problems but, not all. If increased tension does the job, then I would stop there and just go to work ;-)