Green Ambrosia Maple blanks

[Anthony Diodati]

I just got a few Green Ambrosia Maple blanks, I think they said they were drying a while, but I got to thinking, can there still be bugs in them that can get into my other wood?
Should I seal the end grain or the whole piece's and store them covered outside?
What about microwaving them? My defrost cycle don't work, just the power level.
Speaking of sealer, is the "Green wood sealer" Rockler sells as good as anchorseal, as it seems to be the best price?

Also, is there a good source for information for how to cut up logs into turning blanks, and store them.
Thanks,
Tony

[George Morris]

if they are green then I would seal them, the green wood sealer should be fine. I would store inside bugs should not be a problem . Just my opinion! G

[Anthony Diodati]

OK, Thanks George.

[Eric Gourieux]

I've turned a lot of ambrosia maple and have yet to encounter any ambrosia beetles. If you are concerned, I'd go ahead and turn them - at least rough turn, then seal. I'm not familiar with the green wood sealer, so I can't comment on that. I use Anchorseal 2 and have not been happy with the results. I've had a lot more cracking than I did with the original Anchorseal. When you do seal them, I'd go ahead and seal the whole blank. End grain sealing would probably be ok, but the blanks are small enough, you'd be better off sealing the entire blank.

[Anthony Diodati]

Well maybe there gone.
So the Anchorseal 2 don't seem as good?
See, that's what it is when they do all this stuff thats supposed to be more environmental friendly.
I might try the stuff from Rockler. I have some from woodcraft left, I'm not sure if it's still good, it might have froze on winter.
I have a few logs that have been sitting, I think they are cherry, but I have not split them.
I understand it is best to split them (saw) down the center.

[Jim Burr]

A lot of stuff has been done with plastic cooking wrap...aka Saran wrap. If it's round and you don't have AS on hand, I get great results with plastic wrap at 1/100th the cost. Have pics to prove the point...just sayin'

[Tony De Masi]

Tony, to get a good handle on how to go from log to bowl get the first DVD by Bill Grumbine. Turned Bowls Make Easy.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Another good book is Mike Mahoney's From the Tree to the Table. I buy my anchorseal directly from the manufacturer. I get the original like Eric I have been less than pleased the AS II. I would rough turn them and seal the whole bowl. I let them dry from 6 months to a year in a cool dry place on the floor with little air movement. When cutting logs into blanks I always cut about a 1/2" either side of the pith to make sure it is gone.

[Prashun Patel]

I would turn them to rough shape. Storing rounded out blanks like that leads to cracks more time than not for me.

[Anthony Diodati]

Yeah, one of the big ones is starting to crack, I might make it into smaller box's. I'll look for those books and DVD.
I see Mike Mahoney's From the Tree to the Table is in DVD also.

[Anthony Diodati]

I'm Lazy, I just ordered 2 DVD's.
Wood Turning Into Art http://www.amazon.com/Wood-Turning-Into-Art/dp/B000Y056PK
The New Turning Wood (http://www.amazon.com/The-Turning-Wood-Richard-Raffan/dp/1561589578/ref=pd_cp_mov_0) ~ Richard Raffan DVD http://www.amazon.com/The-Turning-Wood-Richard-Raffan/dp/1561589578/ref=pd_cp_mov_0
Probably should have seen if they had Mike Mahoney's From the Tree to the Table in DVD, and Bill Grumbine;s Turned Bowls Make Easy while I was there, maybe next time.

[Mike Cruz]

Anthony, I second what Tony said. Get Bill Grumbine's DVD. It is SO helpful and easy to follow. Heck you don't live THAT far from him. He's in PA. He gives lessons. I would highly recommend taking a lesson with him... Bill's a really good guy, friendly, and patient. Oh, and an excellent turner!

[Anthony Diodati]

OK, thanks, I'll order it next.

[Donny Lawson]

I will second the motion for Bill Grumbines DVD. I have it and have learned alot from it.

[Anthony Diodati]

Just found both of Bill Grumbine's DVD's used for $36.00 shipped.

[Paul Engle]

Rough out the blank, save the woodchips etc. stuff large paper bag with the chips and the blank do not use plastic bag, seal up the bag and let sit for 1-2 months , finish turning.

[Anthony Diodati]

Rough out the blank, save the woodchips etc. stuff large paper bag with the chips and the blank do not use plastic bag, seal up the bag and let sit for 1-2 months , finish turning.
Yes, I have heard plastic nag can cause mold. 1-2 months is all it should take?
That's pretty good.

[Paul Engle]

Yes, I have heard plastic nag can cause mold. 1-2 months is all it should take?
That's pretty good.
Yes,you want the moisture to escape , so no plastic bag unless you want to try spalting a piece of wood. In that case you would be better off stuffing one end into some lawn clippings etc. and leave set in the back yard for six months, or burying one end in the dirt and sealing the other with wax or latex paint or some commerical preperation. On the drying :
Depends on a number of things, humidity, temp at storage, how thick did you leave it roughing it out. how large is it. IE. Under 12 in dia , low humidity, cool temp and turned to approx 1 inch thick, 2 months should give you a fairly dry blank. if the humidity is up and is cooler , say below 70* and the blank is over 12 in dia and is thicker than 1 inch , add another month. Just be sure to use the smallest amount for the chuck ( i use internal holding ) as this will warp pretty good (but not crack) and will give you enuf room to get the chucks jaw back on. I jam chuck the bowl , return the tenon or mortise and then clean up the rest . I like to use mortise -internal as I use a screw to mount the blank and turn the outside and the mortise at the same time. On the larger blanks , I may turn it at 60 days to do a clean up and put it back in the bag if the blank feels cool to the touch ( means it still has too much mosture in it ) . Not all woods are going to respond the same way . If you have the wood try a little testing and see how it goes.