32" to 50" Adjustable Biesemeyer Clone

[Dick Brown]

Just finished a Biesemeyer clone that has sliding rails which make it possible to have a 32" floor space saw that I can do those once in a great while wide cuts on. Fence is still very stable at 50". Will go to 60" if needed but I haven't checked the stability at that width nor can I imagine ever needing to use it there. Also will slide to the left for those rare wider cuts on the left side of the blade. The fence head has 1/2" UHMW "setscrews" that run on the outside of the front rail so the fence stays parallel to the blade even when moving it. Instead of the rear of the fence riding on the table, as the Biesemeyer does, there is a UHMW block that rides on an adjusable rail on the back of the saw which slides also as the front one to accomodate the wider settings. Lots of work as there are a number of things such as welding spacer rods every foot in the rail to keep it from compressing when locked. Thought about building a few and test the market but at 78 years old, I think I will let someone younger do it!
Post a few pictures.

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[Larry Whitlow]

Pretty cool Dick. It would be great to have that extra rip capacity when needed without commiting floor space. When I first looked at your photo 4, I thought the rail was propped up by a chair!:)

[Dick Brown]

Larry,
When the fence is out to the 50" setting, the saw is a bit unstable. Will look at putting legs under the end of the table soon. As far as the chair in the picture, at my age, I try to never get to far from one!!!!
Dick

[Larry Whitlow]

I hear ya. I'm about ready to upgrade the old wooden stool for something with cushions.

[johnny means]

Good job! Though I am a vocal opponent of the 48" + rip fence, i think your approach was very clever. My favorite part is the way the rear of teh fence rides on the back rail. I'll be using that one on my saw to prevent the groove that fences inevitably leave across the rear of the table.

[Sam Layton]

Good job Dick. Do you have any close up photo's of the cam assembly that you would share. You did an outstanding job.

Sam

[Dick Brown]

Sam,
Will hang a few pic's that may show what you want. I'm not to good with the camera. Also pic's of how the rail is built. Just loosen the knobs under the rail, slide to where you need it and tighten down. I bought 1/2" uhmw rod and threaded it for the set screws that run on the front of the rail to keep the fence straight when un-latched. Screwed a 1/2" nut on an old bolt to hold it in my saw and cut it in two for the lock nuts on the set screws. The uhmw pads are put on with contact cement which seems to work very well. The older Biesemeyers used Formica for the slides. I have one of those on a saw and it works fine. The "crowning glory" is the knob!! Bought several of the '70s era bunches of the hanging decorative plastic grapes at yard sales for a $ or two. Have blue, green, orange, and clear. Just drill, tap to the size I need, and screw them on. Have used golf balls also but my son in law tries to steal those! (LOL) PM me if you need a pattern for the locking cam.
Dick

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[Peter Aeschliman]

I love the enginuity!

Probably a lot of work, but you should consider getting a patent and trying to license the idea to one of the existing manufacturers! I'd be surprised if you could make these yourself and make a profit.

The only thing you might consider adding is a positive stop for the sliding square tube for when you slide it back to its smallest position. Otherwise you'll have to measure every cut manually. This would allow you to add an adhesive-backed measuring tape. You could probably include multiple positive stops and maybe have 3 standard positions for the tube, so that you can use multiple measuring tapes. Or put the stops in increments of 10" and know that all you have to do is add 10" or 20" to each reading.

Anyway, these would only be refinements to consider if you were going to sell the thing.

Very well done!

[scott spencer]

That's really nice. Super job! I love the bright orange knob on the handle....reminds me a "Clacker" toy from the early 70s!

[Dick Brown]

Peter,
I hear you about the stops. Thought about a spring loaded indexing pin that would drop in a hole every 10 inches from 20" to the left to 20" to the right which should cover all the bases but decided to give the basic unit a try first. On the tape, I have it on my using saws and like it. Contractor and cabinet builder friend of mine does lots of great work with his saw and has no tape. Personal taste I guess? I am now working on another Unisaw and have a fence to build for it. The plan for this one is another sliding rail setup but will work with standard steel configurations and do away with the milling machine work which would save a bunch of time and money. Big question: Is the stock steel going to be true enough to do the job? I will try it and see! Will post pictures of it when I get it done which will be a while. Garden needs to be put to bed first.
Dick

[Sam Layton]

Dick,

Thank you for the additional photo's. You sure did a great job on the fence. I sent you a PM as well.

Thanks again, Sam