Shellac as a grain filler ????

[Jim Colombo]

I have an open grained wood (California Pepperwood) and was wondering if shellac can be used to fill the grain? I plan to finish the bowls with WOP. I've read where shellac helps make the wood "pop" and since this wood has nice coloring I was hoping to fill the pores and bring out the color all in one shot using shellac. What do you think??

[Michelle Rich]

Depending how big the pores are...But yes, shellac is perfect for filling small holes. Put it on & let dry. Then sand with 400 grit..it will melt the shellac & mix it with sanding dust & fill your tiny holes. You might do it 2-3 times. when it is baby bottom smooth you are done.

[Mel Fulks]

I just looked in my reprint of of the pre-1900 "THE FRENCH POLISHER'S MANUAL" it recommends shellac then plaster of Paris to fill the pores .Ive seen spackling used then stained then more shellac .Looks like shellac can be a filler but if shellac is the finish you need to fill it with something else. Now you will get some good replies from the real finishers!

[Paul Williams]

I get the best result by popping the grain with boiled linseed oil and shellac. I wet sand with BLO which helps fill the grain with sanding dust. Then I add shellac either with fine sanding or with a paper towel. After that I turn up the lathe speed and "burn the oil and shellac into the wood." if the grain is still open I may repeat several times using a very small amount of oil and then a healthy coat of shellac. By burning in each coat there is no dry time. When I reach Michelle's baby soft surface, I start with wipe on poly. The first coat of poly seems to take a little longer to dry so I let it set overnight. There are many threads on the creek about similar proceedures.

[Richard Madden]

I have used drywall joint compound with success on flatwork. Haven't tried it on turnings yet, but plan to. Sand the "mud" after drying, followed with BLO, then 2lb. shellac immediately after the BLO. The shellac helps the BLO dry much quicker.

[Jim Burr]

Wow wow wow!!! Richard, Paul and Mel...just to get a clue on my part...drywall mud to fill cracks/pores in turnings? How do you get around the "white" factor given mud dries white? Just curoisity for me.

[Prashun Patel]

I'd stick with shellac. It's a quick process on turned pieces. In the flat world, there is a case to be made for grain fillers, but on a turned piece, it's easy even on oak.

[Bob Bergstrom]

Mix a little sanding dust from the bowl with the shellac. Rub it into the pores and sand again. Not too much sanding dust or it will ball up on the surface. If it does, just rub it with alcohol to thin it out.

[Mel Fulks]

They just stain it. I've seen pattern makers even use Durhams Rock Hard Putty to fill pores left in lacquered mahogany patterns then coat with more lacquer. In that case the white is not a problem because the last coats of lacquer are opaque color. I just thought it amusing that in some cases the shellac needs a filler and in other cases it is the filler.

[John Beaver]

Shellac and/or wet sanding with blo both work well. Use non waxed shellac.
I would think The drywall mud will probably dry too hard and eventually crack with the circular nature of turned objects.

[robert baccus]

Save a lot od effort and time and try a heavy bodied laq. sanding sealer such as Mohawk brand. Most of the sanding sealers out there are very inferior to this. For years I thinned it and sprayed 4-6 coats but I/we find 1-2 coats applied straight and rubbed in with sponge/towel and sanded to 220 fill pores nicely. Total time ---1 hr.? Then apply your favorite finish.