Log Storage Duration?

[Ned Ladner]

Since hurricane Isaac, I've been "woodpile diving" and I've acquired a fair amount of Bradford Pear, Pecan and Silver Maple. All of the logs remain whole with the ends sealed with Anhorseal.

Are there any issues with storing end grain sealed logs in a covered area for weeks, months or longer?

[Scott Hackler]

Not really. If your using Anchorseal (original) you'ld be better off than the "new formula" of Anchorseal2. Some folks like to elevate the logs off the dirt, but a little time in the dirt will do wonderful things to silver maple. Although you might have to place the end grain into the dirt for full spalting effect.

I generally slice my logs up into 20-25 long and then rip them in half...removing the pith...and then sealing with Anchorseal. This method works pretty good, but the can of AS2 I have been trying to use up is NOT getting replaced. I will be contacting the manufacturer of Anchorseal to buy the original formula.

[David DeCristoforo]

Based on my admittedly limited experience, I have concluded that sealing the ends of whole green logs is as close to a waste of sealer and time as you can get. The logs will shrink and radial checking will occur. This will happen to a greater or lessor degree depending on the wood species. But it will happen and once those radial checks appear, your log is firewood. Get your logs broken down into blanks as soon as possible after they have been cut and get those sealed immediately.

[Tim Rinehart]

Both Scott and David are right on. Sometimes, you may get lucky and have a whole log survive without much on any radial cracking, not just on end grain. Anchorseal original...yep, that's pretty much the way to go vs AS2.
I do store some whole logs, but are well shaded and one end often direct contact with dirt to prevent moisture loss and cracking on that end...and provide a vehicle for some moisture to encourage spalting. Let it go too far...sawdust.
Pith is your enemy...always.
The pecan and pear will be very check/crack prone...so definitely don't delay in prepping those blanks.

One last suggestion...and this is tough since we don't always know exactly what we want to make with a piece of wood...is to rough turn them and maintain even wall thicknesses to help avoid differential drying issues that lead to cracks and extra distortion. The silver maple will keep well in cut blocks...the fruit trees not so much unless you get lucky. If you rough into bowls, make sure you seal the exterior of the bowl and rim, leave the inside open to dry from inside. If you make vases or hollow forms, again, treat exterior and leave inside to breath/dry.
If you're keeping any of these inside a shop/bldg, placing in a paper bag helps allow breathing without drying out too much from drier air.
Whew...I was just gonna agree with others...but couldn't help myself.
have fun...those are 3 wonderful woods to draw from, look forward to seeing some work from them.

[Richard Coers]

I wouldn't expect any of those species to last long in the log form without cracking and insect issues. You have to have termites and powder post beetle in LA almost year round. It's going to start changing color from fungus as well. Maybe you want that. I would split the logs in half as a minimun treatment, and get them off the ground as soon as possible.

[Joe Meirhaeghe]

I've stored smaller logs 10" dia and smaller whole with the pith in it, in a chest freezer for over 2 yrs with no problems.
I've also stored whole walnut logs outside with the ends sealed with anchorseal for over a year also. The ends did some cracking but I was able to cut off about 3" from each end and still had a usable log. Your climate will make some difference & keeping them out of the direct sun helps too.

[Dennis Ford]

I think the Bradford pear will last longer in storage than the others but all will eventually suffer. The Pecan and Silver Maple will both get some nice spalting before they ruin (hopefully).

[Greg McClurg]

I'm a new turner, and hope you don't mind if I ask question on this subject in addition to Ned's. When you cut the log in half and remove the pith do you need to seal the whole piece or just the ends?

thanks,
Greg

[Bernie Weishapl]

I pretty much also cut my logs so that the pith is removed. I anchorseal the ends and 2 to 3 inches over the edge on the cut side.

[robert baccus]

All the above is good advice, I would add, for longer storage some 6$ storage boxes from wal-nut store full of water. Wood will literally last forever in water and no endseal worries. By the way Scott the Artisan woodsealer is just like the old anchorseal. (Craft Supplies) Old cajun

[George Guadiane]

All the above is good advice, I would add, for longer storage some 6$ storage boxes from wal-nut store full of water. Wood will literally last forever in water and no endseal worries. By the way Scott the Artisan woodsealer is just like the old anchorseal. (Craft Supplies) Old cajun

I generally cut everything into blanks, hot paraffin wax them then store them in banana boxes. Its a lot more work, but I have blanks that are YEARS old and still ready to turn.
I did a video on the hot wax technique I use,

[Thomas Canfield]

No one mentioned removing the bark, but my experience is that there can be considerable worm activity in the bark that can do some serious damage on pecan for sure and the BP to a lesser extent. I like to remove 15% of diameter as a pith slab but keep the pith slabs after removing the pith to use for other turnings. If you have larger logs, you can increase the pith slab to have some excellent material for small boxes ane other end grain turning since the wood is basically quarter sawn in the slabs.

[robert baccus]

I would add to my above reply that i cheat and put a lot of my logs/halflogs in my brides lily pad pond. they sink and she thinks there is 1 or 2--cheaper than boxes yeah.