Mitersaw Station Moveable Fence(?)

[Jim Eller]

I am building a mitersaw station and am looking for ideas on how to be able to let the fence(s) move in and out.

The reason, when adding a zero clearance insert to the saw the thickness of the ZCI could vary in thickness when replaced or I may want to remove the ZCI to gain the added cut length.

The saw is recessed below the right and left tables so mitersaw table is level with the right and left tables. I don't have to build the fences up so I can use a simple board for a fence on both sides.

I realize I could use t-track but would prefer not to put a track in the 3/4" ply tables. I can not just add the extra ZCI thickness to the fences because of the flip stops.

Any ideas are appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim

[Jim Eller]

No one has done this? :confused:

[Mark Leu]

I haven't done it, but I plan on building a new miter saw station this winter and want to do something similar to what you have described. The solution that I've been tossing around in my head is to put T-track in the tables, but you said that was not an option. If you're only concern is cutting into your nice tables, but you're not totally against t-track, you could have a sub-base with the t-track in it. The sub-base could get securely mounted to your tables and your fence could slide back and forth on the sub-base.

[Roy Turbett]

You could make a disposable fence out of mdf by cutting a t-slot in the mdf with a special router bit and drilling a hole for a t-bolt in the permanent miter saw fence. The disposable fence would simply slide into place and could be cut off as needed to make for a zero clearance backstop. If you don't have the router bit, you could make the fence by cutting a dado and then doing a glue up before cutting a second dado for the t-bolt. I use a similar setup for the miter gauge on my table saw and for the fence on my router table (New Yankee Workshop design) and am considering it for my radial arm saw.

[Mike Heidrick]

I have never seen a ZCI on a miter saw fence. Shouldn't it be in the "bed" of the saw?

[Jim Eller]

Mike,

The ZCI's are in both the fence and the "bed".

Makes a world of difference to prevent "flying chunks" when making small cuts.

Thanks for the other ideas.

HI CHRIS H.!!:D

Jim

[Kevin Groenke]

Would it work to move the saw instead of the fence? This could be accomplished by mounting the saw to a sub-base that is slotted to allow it to move forward/back enough to accommodate the ZCI/backer fence. A couple of knobs could loosen/tighten the sub-base to the actual base.

Are the side tables already made or is it a work in progress? I suppose if everything is made, you could just add the thickness of the sub-base to the top of the side tables as well.

Our miter station side tables are just h shaped assemblies of 3/4" particle board. There is a measuring tape stuck on an aluminum extrusion slotted into the top of the h. Stops are hinged and spring loaded clamps that tighten onto the top leg of the h.

-kg

[joseph f merz]

Well I have several saw stations and all my table fenses are always set back from the mitersaw . Reason is due to wood /lumber isn't always straight .If board is not tight at the saw to the fense you have a scary situation . This allows a much more versital cut station .With it flush you have true your boards first .I have come to the belief that you do not gain any accuracy by having the saw fence extend flush to the table fense . though this is not proven anywhere .Love my Kreg stop ,having a stop saves so much time

[Keith Weber]

I have to agree with Joseph. A long fence flush to the saw fence is a PITA. I do a lot of framing with the mitersaw as well, and you get a squarer cut on 2x's with the saw fence proud of a miterstation fence. You just focus on making sure that the board you're cutting is flat to the saw fence. A miterstation fence is better utilized to aid in rough alignment of long boards and for the ability to mount stops to repeat cut lengths.

Keith

[Mike Heidrick]

Great ideas guys. Mine is flush and just ever so recessed. I will shim to make just proud of fence. I too use and love the Kreg stop and its stop length will make this great. Thanks again.

[Jim Eller]

After much thought and reading all of the input, I think it would just easier to plane a whole bunch of material the same thickness and cut out a bunch of ZCI's for the saw's fence. Just as I did the throat plate.

It was just a thought but apparently not a very good one.

Thanks for everyone's input.

[Roger Feeley]

I like the t-track idea.
You would only need a couple of inches of track. You only need an inch or two of movement.
You can put the track towards the back of the table.
You can put wood underneath the table to beef up the structure. But really, I don't think there will be much of a problem there.

What would really excite me would be if I could put in some sort of rack and pinion so I don't have to tap the fence in and out to get it where I want it.