File handles

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I've got a lot of files kicking around, in invariably it seems the one I want to use doesn't have a handle, and I've a few where the handles I have don't really fit. I recently found some off cuts of birch, maple and poplar that aren't really good for much else, but would be great sizes for making handles.

No lathe, but I'm fine making something octagon or kind of roundish or whatever.

What would folks suggest for keeping the handle from splitting? Cheap ferrules from somewhere? Bits of pipe? I like the idea of the wire-wrapped handles (http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=handles#) Lie Nielsen carries, since I think I have some suitable wire kicking around. Curious how one would go about doing that, though. Any tips there? The wire seems appealing as it'd also probably be easier than trying to fit a ferrule just right without a lathe.

In general, I'd like to keep it cheap; kludged together hacks and goofy uses of odd materials are appreciated. I may just go to the "Rebuild" center and see what they've got. . .

Any tips on how to size the hole for the file's tang?

[Jim Koepke]

I have used a few different sized drills to drill the holes. It gives a faux taper to the hole.

There are some good handles available at low prices, but nothing beats the price of a branch from a tree cut to size.

Another trick that will work with your wire wrapping is to cut slots in the handle after the hole is drilled. Then tightly wrapping some wire will squeeze the wood to hold the file. You could even put the end in a clamp to compress it while wrapping.

jtk

[Dave Beauchesne]

Joshua:

I use '' SKROOZ-ON '' re-useable handles - http://www.simondsinternational.com/files/acc-skroozon.php?menu=mnuPFiles

No affiliation - don't get me wrong - I LOVE making my own tools / handles, but sometimes the amount of time versus the end result isn't worth it. I like the fact these are easily transerable, and re-useable.

Just my 2 cents.

Dave Beauchesne

[Paul Saffold]

These are on small rasp.One has epoxy the rest are friction fit. Obviously not much time spent making them, but they work just fine. Oak and, I think, maple. I wouldn't worry about ferrules. There isn't much pressure put on them. Not like a chisel that you might be pounding on. For files that I expect to wear out, like for saw filing, I would use something like the SKROOZ-ON, that can be easily switched out. I've seen this thread come up before. Someone used old golf balls.

[Trevor Walsh]

I got a mini pipe cutter and brass tubing from the hobby shop, then I cut off 1/2" and 7/16 inch long pieces and have them sitting to be ferrules some day. Were I making handles without a lathe I'd make tapered swelled octagons like Pfiel carving tools with brass ferrules. For tang holes, I drill a hole the size corresponding to the width across flats about 1/3 of the way up from the ass end of the tang, drill that size only to the 2/3rds depth, then heat the tang to a black heat and burn in the tang most of the way. After everything is cool, I drive it on. Ferrule keeps the wood from spitting and it wedges in really tight.

[Matthew N. Masail]

I'd avoid buying those with the threaded insert. I bought a whole bunch with 8 new rasps and files and not one would fit right. I had to drill the top of the ferrules, take out the insert, and epoxy the files in. such a waste. I'd but the LN ones with the wire and call it a day.
I you really want to make your own I agree that a ferrules aren’t a must.

[Ryan Baker]

Matthew, you are the first person I have heard of not liking the skrooz-on handles. Not that I don't believe you -- just that I have heard a number of good reports. It doesn't really matter to me anyway. At 5 dollars each, those handles get way too expensive if I were to get the quantities I would need. Making handles does save a lot of money, if you are willing to put in the [considerable] time it takes to make a bunch of them. Copper pipe is convenient and less expensive than brass for ferrules if you don't mind the look of copper. (The same goes for other types of pipe too, of course.)

[Steve Bates]

For small files I use rubber tubing. Compressed air line is cheap and sturdy. It's thicker than auto rubber hose which helps with rigidity.

I shove it as far up the tang as possible and cut it about a quarter inch longer than the tang.

My two pennies

[Johnny Kleso]

I have about two or three bags full of handles..
Most are wood some are plastic..
They are about a buck a piece, mine don't come loose but I don't change them from one file to another..

[Jim Matthews]

I use wine corks.

(The only chore is finishing the contents of each bottle.)

[Matthew N. Masail]

I use wine corks.

(The only chore is finishing the contents of each bottle.)

You call that a chore....? just let the lady finish it just before introducing a new tool perches :D

[Zach Dillinger]

I have a small bag of copper crimp sleeves, about 5/8" tall, 3/4" diameter, that I've used for ferrules in the past. They work great, no cutting a chunk off a pipe, and extremely inexpensive. I bought mine from Home Depot, I believe, last year.

[ian maybury]

The issue to be careful of with file handles is that if one splits or falls off while filing there's a very real risk of burying the tang in your hand or wrist. Whatever it is it needs to be secure...

ian

[Ryan McGee]

For files and rasp, I usually just use some yellow pine offcuts I have laying around, drill a hole and burn the tang in. A little work with a spokeshave and I'm done. 5-10 min max per handle. Just make sure that you don't heat up the teeth on the rasp.

[Dave Halter]

I've got some of the Woodstock rubber handles and they seem to work good. A set of 5 is around $8 on Amazon. I think I got mine on sale for less than that at the Woodworking Show.

[Bill White]

I thought that I was the only feller usin' golf balls.
Bill