Favorite Types of Finishes

[Michael Dromey]

I am getting back into turning. What types of finishes does everyone use here for bowls? I want to hear from everyone what their favorite is and why.

[Richard Jones]

For everyday utility pieces I use walnut oil, bought from the grocery store. Allow to cure for a few days, preferably by indirect sunlight, buff with 600 paper, possibly apply Renaissance wax. My other "method" is Danish oil. Use per directions, allow to dry several days at least, then buff as desired, followed by Ren wax. Since oil will really darken some woods, I will sometimes use a wash coat of shellac before using the DO to "set" the color, as I've found this causes the piece to retain more of its natural coloring. Cherry is a good example of this.

I like easy, and I don't like high gloss on my pieces.

242028

As always, my $.02....................

[Fred Belknap]

I doubt you will find any one finish is right in every circumstance. Two that I use a lot are WOP (Wipe On Polyurethane) and Minwax Antique Oil. They are easy to apply and do a great job.

[Marc Himes]

I like Antique oil for an easy to use finish that can leave the wood with a nice mat finish which buffs to a soft luster or can be made glossy with more coats. This does darken the wood so I don't use it on lighter woods. On colored pieces I use repeated coats of wipe on poly but sand between each coat with 600 grit paper and/or the 1800-2400 abrasive sheets use for pen turning.

[Reed Gray]

For daily use bowls, walnut oil, either from Mike Mahoney, or from The Doctor's Woodshop. I will not use solvent based finishes on my bowls. For 'art' pieces, mostly a urethane type finish, and I have found that the ones intended for use on floors tend to build quicker and have a more durable finish.

robo hippy

[Thom Sturgill]

Lacquer for 'art' pieces and walnut oil for other pieces. I have started using WTF (a form of Wipe-on-Poly) on some items, but prefer lacquer for its ability to be repaired and for not having to sand between coats. As it has been used for hundreds, if not thousands, of years in asia for service bowls I have no trouble with it being used on mine.

[Darren Jamieson]

Mine will vary with the peice but since to date I have done no bowls that I would expect someone to use with food, I am not sure what I would use. I've used WOP, danish oil, antique oil some start with sand and sealer some don't. The one thing they all have in common is that I finish with minwax furiture polish because I love the sheen that it produces once buffed down.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use either Mahoney's or Doctors Workshop walnut oil. These will cure nicely. For artsy pieces I like Minwax Antique Oil and have been experimenting with Target water based laquer and poly.

[Marvin Hasenak]

It all depends on what I am finishing and how it will be used. I use all types of oil finishes, Danish, Teak, Tru-Oil, Antique oil etc. on some. Others i use CA finish, or Helmsman spar varnish. others get poly, regular poly or wipe on poly. Some nothing more than a mineral spirits and wax rubbed into the wood and as last resort, some get no finish at all.

[Pat Scott]

For my utility bowls, plates, and platters that will be used for food, I used to use Salad Bowl Finish that has been diluted 50% with Mineral Spirits. Lately I've been using Danish Oil or Mahoneys Walnut Oil Finish. SBF and Danish Oil are pretty much the same thing (1/3 oil, 1/3 varnish, 1/3 solvent). I like the extra durability of Salad Bowl Finish or Danish Oil. With any of these finishes I wipe it on, let it sit for a minute or two, and then wipe it all off again. The idea is to wipe the oil off the surface so it won't build up a film finish, but there is still oil left in the pores to provide protection.

With SBF or Danish Oil you want to let it cure a week or two before use (stick your nose right up to the piece. If you can smell the finish it needs to cure a little longer). Walnut Oil can take a week or two to dry as well (or longer). I do like the ease of re-application and that anyone can do it, but I don't like how long Walnut Oil takes to dry. I don't like getting my hands oily when I pick up a bowl, and I don't want to leave an oil ring on the table from a finish that hasn't dried yet. But if you're not in a hurry...

[Will Winder]

I like on-lathe finishes that are fast to apply and hard to screw up, read into that all you want and you will probably be correct! There are two finishes that I use on almost all of my work.

1) eee-ultra-shine + shellawax friction polish. I like this because it goes on really quickly, doesn't need to dry and looks nice and shiny. The big downside is that the shellawax is sticky, stinky and has a tendency to sprays all over the place if you put it on too thickly.

2) Bee's Wax. Nothing fancy here, a friend makes her own bee's wax candles, my family burns the candles into puddles, I take the left over lumps and rub them against my turning then polish it out with a paper towel. Looks great and goes on fast.

[Eric Holmquist]

It all depends on the subject. If I am finishing something that I have colored, then waterborne lacquer. it has no color shift so it preserves the colors I have applied. If I am going with a natural wood look, typically Bush Oil and Wipe-on-Poly.

For some things that will have sustained food contact, I will go with Walnut Oil.

For small things, I will just break out the spray can and apply solvent based lacquer. Too much trouble to fool with other methods.

[Jake Helmboldt]

As others noted, it depends on the intended use and desired attributes. I use Waterlox Original for a variety of projects, including bowls and it is somewhat similar to Antique Oil so it can be a semi gloss or polished to a high luster. A nice soft luster and quick finish is BLO rubbed in on the lathe and then topped with beeswax, also rubbed in with heat/pressure on the lathe. This is a Richard Raffan favorite is quick and easy. I use walnut oil for things like salad bowls, but it provides virtually no luster (but does give the wood nice tone and richness and is quickly renewable).

[rogers kevin]

This might sound crazy, but my favorite new wood stain is a part of the Storm System (http://www.stormsystem.com) collection that is meant for exterior surfaces. It looks amazing no matter what type of wood I apply it to! And if it ever starts raining in the house my wood will be safe!

[Philip Wilson]

My newest favorite is Odie's Oil. Food safe, and a little goes a long way.