Chamois leather for power strop?

[Matthew N. Masail]

do you know where can I get it? and what grade-thickness do you recommend for a power strop?

Edit: Is this stuff good? https://www.2checkout.com/2co/buyer/orderpage?sid=1377786 shipping is cheap. looks a little thin though.

[David Weaver]

Vegetable tanned cowhide or horse butt strips. Those are the two things you want to look for. To the extent that the leather is on the harder and smoother side, you'll get better results.

If I were in your shoes and looking to apply the leather onto something, 8/9 ounce vegetable tanned cowhide is probably the cheapest thing that will be very good. Horse butt is a little nicer in the end, but it's a bit harder to get in clear runs and it's stiffer to start.

( I wouldn't try chamois leather under any circumstances, though )

[Matthew N. Masail]

Oh.... I thought the Chamois held compound better because it's pourus. for ultimate hardness I should get thin leather no? ( I really know nothing about this .....)

[george wilson]

I have always found that power strops on slow speed grinders invariably MESS UP my previously super sharp edges,much to mu frustration. Stropping should be absolutely MINIMAL, and by hand or you round the edge. I'm now using MDF and LV green chrome honing compound. I don't LIKE MDF ,but the blade doesn't sink into it to get rounded.

[David Weaver]

It doesn't need to be thin, just not floppy leather. I like smooth side out, it'll make a better edge and if it gets loaded with compound all you need to do is turn on your power strop, apply a little oil to it and rag off the compound.

it takes so little compound to actually do the stropping (people probably do the opposite, they overdo it and run too much metal off when they use a power strop) that there's no reason to worry about whether or not the leather will hold the compound.

[David Weaver]

I have always found that power strops on slow speed grinders invariably MESS UP my previously super sharp edges,much to mu frustration. Stropping should be absolutely MINIMAL, and by hand or you round the edge. I'm now using MDF and LV green chrome honing compound. I don't LIKE MDF ,but the blade doesn't sink into it to get rounded.

I think most people using a power strop would find a bare leather strop with no compound would improve their edge just as much, as long as they keep it clean and free of metal particles, and as long as they weren't coming from a coarse stone.

I like the MDF for a bench strop for the same reason, too, it takes no more time to use than leather and it doesn't threaten the edge. Power strops might refine the edge scratches, but if they are overused, they round the edge in exactly the same pattern as wear from use does.

[Matthew N. Masail]

I see. ok. Thank you!

George, I thought of doing that, but then I gave my MDF disk a coating of CA glue to harden a stiffen it. also my grinder is 3450RPM or something like that. do you think I can still use it even with a smooth hardened surface? alternatively I can charge it with diamond compound and not the compound.

[David Weaver]

Just sand off the CA glue.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Matthew

I use chamois leather glued to a sanding disk with velcro backing on the disk sander section of my belt sander combo. I do find it a better surface for holding green compound than a harder and thicker leather. Chamois leather is available as a drying cloth for cars from auto stores.

Keep in mind that the leather must be stretched across the disk for absolute flatness. A flat powered strop is more reliable than a round one. Place the blade down heel first, and always with the edge away from the direction of the spin!

Having said all this, I rarely strop a plane blade or chisel anymore as the stones are close by at all times. The power strop is mainly used on lathe tools.

Regards from Perth

Derek