Hand scraped look? Best method

[alex grams]

I have a possible commission where the person wants a dining table with a slight hand scraped texture. What is the best/most effective method for this? A scrub plane has the radius, but is much more aggressive than what I think I would want. Maybe buying a blade for my smoother plane and radiusing it? My concern is also tearout, and ways to avoid this.

My first instinct is to go hand work, it shouldn't be too big of a table that I couldn't do it by hand, even if it is laborious.

Thoughts/Suggestions/Methods?

Thanks in advance.

[george wilson]

Hand scrape it with a flat blade cabinet scraper thin enough to flex with your fingers,to keep the corners from digging in. I would not want that texture,myself. Too scratchy. What I did to some of the furniture I made for the house,when I was first in Wmsbg.,was to sharpen a wooden smooth plane blade razor sharp,with a VERY SLIGHT radius,and set it very fine. Then,plane the wood with competent looking,even strokes. This left a very smooth surface,with a pleasant tactile feeling under the finish,when the hand was rubbed across it. A scraper will not ever leave a polished surface like a plane will.

[Jim Koepke]

If this were my commission, a few pieces would be made with different methods and finished. These would be presented to the buyer to make sure we were in agreement on the finished surface desired.

jtk

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

If this were my commission, a few pieces would be made with different methods and finished. These would be presented to the buyer to make sure we were in agreement on the finished surface desired.

jtk

I haven't done much work for others, but when I don't have a previous example to show something, that's exactly what I've done in the past for various finishes or what-have-you. Even done it for myself (and the wife) a few times. But very nice to avoid surprises to clients down the road.

[alex grams]

I agree Josh and jim. Once the client settles on a wood to use, I will nake samples of the texture with several types of finifh to send. I too don't like surprises on my side or the clients side.

[Richard Verwoest]

Take a look at the Lie Neilsen web page for their Scrub plane. There is a really nice photo of what I think is the look you are after. Maybe not as "deep", but the same.

Hoss

[Jim Matthews]

You can grind a radius on any plane blade.
I've seen large rabbet planes with a cambered blade produce the sort of finish you describe.

Two things - the blade has to be properly sharpened. Do you know how to do this?
The larger the blade, the more force will be exerted. If you take light passes, it should be (theoretically) possible to do it with a larger blade.

It's a friction management problem.

FWIW - I would recommend buying a japanese plane (http://www.dilegnosupply.com/Hand-Planes/japanese_curved_bottom_planes.htm)for the job, that way you can get your back into it.

[Mark Wyatt]

I tried to turn an old wooden fore plane into a scrub plane recently. The longer sole made it bad as a scrub; it simply wouldn't go deep enough to hog out much material. However, this might make it a good candidate for the slight hand-scraped look you are after.

[Don Orr]

If they want a truly scraped finished how about using a dedicated cabinet scraper like a Stanley 80 or 12. You could grind a slight radius on the edge and put a good burr on and have at it. But what do I know, I'm just a turner. ;-))