A question on the AFD bow armed Morris chair plan

[Cynthia Standley]

Hi everyone,

I lurk on occasion to find an answer to a question. This time the posts on Morris chairs are a little overwhelming, so hope you don't mind if I ask this one. I am a beginner/intermediate and this is my first real piece of furniture. I have built a bench and shed, etc.

So, the plans show a rail that measures 27 3/8 from end of tenon to end of tenon. The direction booklet has a cut list that shows the rail as 28 inches. The FWW article shows the rail at 28 inches also. Should I just follow the plan and assume the cut list is wrong? Is that a rough cut? I imagine there are errors in plans all the time, but being new to this I don't want to make that assumption.

Thanks for any help.

Cindy

[Ralph Boumenot]

I would go with the longest dimension. It's easier to take off rather than add. Another way is my preferred way - take your measurements directly off what you are making.

[glenn bradley]

As Ralph said. You don't really want to just make parts from a cut list IMHO. Making all the parts ahead of time and then expecting them to go together could make you unhappy. I make connecting parts like stretchers and chair rails to fit the piece as I go. That is; cut your part oversize and then fit it to the piece. Another example; if I was making a bookcase I would make the sides, top and bottom. I would dry-assemble this carcass and then make my shelf measurements from that.

[Dan Land]

I have the California Bow Arm plan (with the tapered legs). I'm not sure if this is the same as yours or not (they have several bow arm plans). I've made two out of ambrosia maple with walnut legs and they look gorgeous.

I agree, the booklet needs to be updated. The booklet instructions do not agree with the diagrams (plans) or the cutlist. The assembly instruction sequence also disagrees between the picture references in acouple of places. I think I did something wrong following one instead of the other. Not impossible to overcome, but it made it more difficult -- I don't remember what the problem was. The cutlist is mostly rough dimensions except for the arms and legs which are final lengths (this was not identified on the cutlist). The plans are very good with a couple of references that are missing for the back.

I modified the back to simplify the tenon layout. Change the top rail to 4" and the tenon to 3". Start the first tenon 1.25" from the top, then put the tenon holes all at 3.75" between tenon bottom/top. I put the bottom pivot hole 1.5" from the bottom, which worked well. The depth of the corresponding pivot hole in the back leg is not referenced. I used a little more than 1" whicih seemed adequate.

For a novice the booklet could use a little more description of techniques, but you'll probably be able to handle it just fine. Good luck.

[Stephen Cherry]

Howdy lurker!

Do you have full sized patterns? If not, you should to draw these out on a piece of mdf, or something semi permanent, particularly the plan view of the seat. The critical dimension would be shoulder to shoulder lengths, and the tenons can stick out until you are ready to cut them off. If they are a little long initially, it does not matter, but if your shoulder to shoulder length of the part is wrong, you are out of luck.

Another thing to consider is a baltic birch pattern of every part.

[Cynthia Standley]

Thanks a lot for the comments. I do have the plan; it just doesn't jive with the directions. Sounds like that may be a common problem. I will follow the plan for now and hope there is nothing I will need to have forseen (that was a mouthful).

[Carroll Courtney]

Cynthia, once you get going please post pics of your progress.The Morris chair is on my bucket list,love to learn alittle as you go----Carroll