Emergency stop

[Mike Cruz]

I'm putting together a lathe, and am considering adding an EMERGENY STOP button. Anyone have any recommendations on one? Thanks.

[Tim Rinehart]

Hey Mike, the Grizzly H8241 is a decent value for a paddle type emergency stop when wired directly into the motor circuit as it can handle the loads per the rating for your lathe project. If you have relays with lower voltage, an alternative may be a magnetic switch like their H8240 that needs to be reset after a power loss, inherently safer in that the lathe can't start back on its own without resetting the switch. I'm not an electrical expert, so I can't offer too much more, but I'm sure someone will.

[Alan Trout]

I have a foot switch for my Robust AB. It is fantastic to have when hollowing and both hands are busy. It was an option for the lathe that I would recommend for anyone considering an American Beauty. The Vicmarc's have a knee bar which is also pretty cool. I like having stop buttons that I do not have to use my hands.

Alan

[Jim Underwood]

Both Rockler and Woodworkers Supply carry a paddle style stop switch.

[Mike Cruz]

As usual, I start a thread without enough info... sorry. I've got a 2 hp 3 phase motor that will be running off of a VFD. I found a foot pedal, but you plug a 110 into it. That won't work. I like the idea of a foot pedal, but it would need to work with either the VFD (which might be able to do low voltage, not sure how that works), or work with 3 phase, but I think that is less likely.

Tim, I'll look at those two options. I think I've already seen them, but I'll look again.

Jim, my current on/off situation is that I have a three position switch. LEFT is forward, MIDDLE is off, and RIGHT is reverse. If I am going to get an emergency off button, it needs to be just that...a single button that you hit to turn the lathe off. You would need to pull it back out, so to speak, to reset it so the lathe can be turned back on. Technically, I suppose that either makes it or could be used as my on/off switch, and just leave the lathe in FORWARD.

[Tony De Masi]

I have one in the garage.

[Richard Coers]

I can't imagine having a foot switch in all those shavings while doing bowl work. Then add the fact that I'm moving my body all around to be the best stable position. A true emergency stop would throw current into the motor to stop it instantly. That means the faceplate or chuck might screw off, or really lock on the thread. I would just suggest a big red off button mounted on a magnet that could be repositioned on the lathe.

[Mike Cruz]

Richard, that is precisely why I started this thread. Oddly enough, I didn't even think about mounding shavings when thinking about a foot pedal! So, maybe you are right, and a foot pedal is out.

I'm all in for the big red off button, whether mounted permanently, or attached to a magnet...either way. And this leads me to my question... What do people have and like, or any suggestions on such a button that seems quality but doesn't break the bank. I've found some for $.99 to $6. But thought those might be a little cheap (unless someone out there has one and loves it...), but also don't feel the need to spend $100. So, I'm open to suggestions.

Tony, I would expect nothing other than for you to have one in your garage. Other than to have TWO in your garage. Though that doesn't help me, does it...?;)

[Nate Davey]

I had my big red button mounted on a magnet so I could move it to where I was and "hip check" the lathe off. Very handy when coring and hollowing. I wouldn't turn without it!

[Mike Cruz]

Nate, where did you get yours, and do you have any pics in case I need to fabricat one? Thanks.

[Alan Trout]

The foot switch on my American beauty hooks into the VFD. Of course I have both the pendent and the foot switch. But I have not found what Richards describes to be a problem at all. I just move it with my foot to where ever I need the switch. It has become second nature. The foot switch also comes on the VB36 which is really intended as a bowl lathe. Like I said before what is so nice is when I am hollowing and I am using both hands a simple tap with my toe shuts the machine off. Also the foot switch does not turn on the machine. That has to be done with the pendant with all the rest of the controls on it. The foot switch is only a emergency stop switch.

Alan

[Mike Cruz]

Alan, I'd love to see pics of your set up, too, if you wouldn't mind...

[Nate Davey]

Mike I had a Jet 1642, so took the speed control/on/off module out and put it on a long wire.

Here is the link http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?161939-Jet-1642-Remote-Switch-and-Some-Lessons-Learned&highlight=remote

[Alan Trout]

Here is a oic of the foot peddle and the pendent. I have been pleased with both.

Alan

[Mike Cruz]

Thanks, Alan. This is really giving me some ideas. I was orginally thinking that my power, FWD/REV, and Pot had to be in a perminent spot. Then started thinking that the E-stop would be moveable. But the more I think about this, there is no reason that any of it HAS to be perminent. I could just put it all on a magnetic/movable unit. Ya'll have got me thinking. And I really appreciate that!

[Dale Bright]

Mike, check out his thread. I ended up mounting the PVC box to a block of wood that had Rare Earth magnets monted in it. I worked great. Powermatic and Oneway both offer a remote start/stop that is installed in additon to the regular controls but they do not offer speed control. I have the Oneway on my lathe, if you want to see it.

Dale

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?130675-Need-Advice-on-a-Lathe-Mod&highlight=

[Mike Cruz]

Thanks, Dale. Good advice in that thread. I like the wood idea. Probably would be easier on the paint on the lathe...

[Michael Mills]

For an emergency switch you may want to consider this one. Similar to the ones Tim mentioned but maybe heavier duty (2hp, 35 amps on 110 or 3 hp, 20 amps on 220).
http://www.grizzly.com/products/110-220V-Paddle-On-Off-Switch/H8243
I mounted mine fixed to the lathe.... if it is an emergency I don't want to have to remember where I stuck it with magnets the last time.

[Greg Bolton22]

Something to consider: some (most?) of the VFDs have settings for the adjustment of the speed at which the motor slows to a stop. If you kill the power to the VFD, the motor will not be under power but it will take longer to stop than if the VFD told it to stop. Does this make sense? I figured it out when I put a cheapy kill switch on my 1642. I can cut the power but it takes forever for the piece to stop spinning compared to using the stock switch. I need to do the upgrade like Nate did, but I never seem to make the time.

Greg

Greg

[Mike Cruz]

Don't VFDs have a slot for the E-stop? If so, I would imagine that if you hook it up to there, it will still do a braking stop...

[Greg Bolton22]

Mike,

I have no idea, I have never had mine open to look at it! My cheap kill switch is all external of the lathe and just cuts power to the entire lathe. Just wanted to make sure you were aware of the situation. Turns out you are much more aware than I am! (that happens to me a lot)

[Larry Komroff]

Which VFD is on your lathe? I put a switch http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Pushbuttons_-z-_Switches_-z-_Indicators/22mm_Metal/Emergency_Stop_Pushbuttons_Illuminated_-a-_Non-Illuminated/GCX1136 , contact block http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Pushbuttons_-z-_Switches_-z-_Indicators/22mm_Metal/22mm_Pushbutton_Accessories/Contact_Blocks/ECX1030-2 and enclosure http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Pushbuttons_-z-_Switches_-z-_Indicators/22mm_Plastic/22mm_Pushbutton_Enclosures/SA101SL on my Powermatic lathe and wired it in series with the stop switch already on the lathe. It works great. I added a couple of rare earth magnets on the back of the enclosure so the switch can be located almost anywhere. Your particular VFD manual will have a diagram so you can wire it properly.

Larry

[Mike Cruz]

Oh, don't go giving me credit where credit isn't due! I was thinking that MIGHT be the case... I certainly appreciate your caution. I wouldn't have thought about it had you not brought it up...

[Mike Cruz]

Hehe, Larry, you're a man after my own heart. Thanks for the links. That makes things SO much easier than get a button and a box from that place on the net...you know the place... I'll have to look at the VFD to see what it can and can't do. In the past, I've only used FM-50s. But this time I got cheap and got something off Ebay. Hope it works out okay. If not, I'll just count it as a loss...

[Dick Strauss]

Mike,
Most VFDs use 12V or 24V (at a very low current) for triggers to control the on/off, etc. A 110V foot switch could work just fine for an e-stop since it acts like a single contact. You may need to enable the e-stop function via the VFD panel settings (probably change "ON" from 0 to 1) so that the VFD knows to expect voltage at the e-stop input.

I have an e-stop, a fwd/off/rev, and a speed pot in one magnetic controller box. I know it seems like the fwd/off/rev and e-stop are redundant. I usually turn both to off. It makes me think about my speed setting before turning both back on...

PM me if you need help!

[Mike Cruz]

Thanks, Dick. That combo is exactly what I'll be having on my remote switch, which consequently, will be my only set of controls. No need for redundancy. Speaking of redundancy, I don't think your E-stop and fwd/stop/reverse are redundant at all. I read the manual on my VFD and IIRC, I cannot turn the lathe on and off with the E-stop. Once the E-stop is pushed, the fwd/stop/rev switch needs to be put back into the OFF position before the lathe can resume spinning. So, for me, the E-stop will be just that...an emergency stop. It will also, however, be there in close proximity for when I'm hollowing and want to turn the lathe off without removing my hands from my tools if I feel more comfortable hip checking the E-stop than removing one hand from my hollowing tool to turn the switch to OFF.

Thanks again, Dick (and everyone else) for all you input. This has really helped shape the outcome of my set up!

[Dick Strauss]

Mike,
I didn't explain my setup quite right because I couldn't remember how I wired it when I responded. Let me start again...

I bring 12V to one side of the start/stop mushroom contact block. When the contact is made at the start/stop, it provides power to both contacts for the for/rev switch. Only one contact can be closed at a time on the for/rev switch, there is no issue with 12V being applied to one side of both contacts. They are wired in series so both contacts (either start+for or start+rev) must be on before the trigger signal starts the motor. In your case, I'd wire the foot pedal switch in series with the for/rev contacts so that both have to be active to start the motor unless you feel you really want the e-stop option.

FYI-I'm using 7-conductor "sprinkler" wire for my remotes where the speed pot takes 3 conductors, the for/rev each take one, one for ground, and one for 12V supply to the remote.

[Bill Boehme]

Most VFD's have a logic input for a coast stop which is what most woodturning lathes call Emergency stop. The switch operation could be either momentary contact or toggle on-off. Once the switch is actuated, the lathe will not restart until either FWD or REV is actuated AND the coast stop is not actuated. For obvious fail-safe reasons, coast stop (EMERGENCY STOP) is open contacts on the switch.

Alan Trout:

Is the foot switch on your lathe set up to operate as a dead-man switch? Also, does it coast or ramp down? I am thinking about possibly retrofitting my older Robust with a foot switch. I like the idea of using it when hollowing with my long Steve Sinner rig where I may not be very close to the pendant controls or need to make frequent stops.

[Roy Turbett]

I'm putting together a lathe, and am considering adding an EMERGENY STOP button. Anyone have any recommendations on one? Thanks.

Mike - What kind of lathe are you putting together? Did you sell your PM90?

[Mike Cruz]

No, Roy, the PM90 still remains. It is still for sale, but I'm not giving it away! At the time of completion, I know I had $1200 into it (that is, that is what I was willing to admit to myself...:rolleyes:) and since then, some more went in. I had offers at $1500, but just couldn't part with it for that. So, until/unless I get my bottom dollar, I'll keep her.

Jeff Nicol (before he took a break to catch up on his own stuff) made me a bowl lathe. I fell into a deal on some ways, so I'm modifying what Jeff made for me to fit the ways. It'll be something...special, I can assure you. When she's completed, you all WILL hear about it. ;)