Workbench top alternative

[Adam Cruea]

So, I was going to try to make my workbench out of 8/4 hickory with all sapwood since it's the lighter creme color. Unfortunately, my lumber guy can't get that.

I already have the base built, so I'm looking for suggestions for a top that would look good with it.

I've debated using 5/4 hickory (since it will end up about 1" thick) and laminating about 30 of those together to make the top as it should be fairly easy to get all sapwood from that. I suppose another option is to get 8/4 hickory and do a striping of sap/heartwood, or just a generally blotchy mix.

Any ideas out there? I'll probably be using Danish Oil on the top so it's somewhat protected from sweat and the odd coffee/cold drink placed on it, and since you all have more experience than I do with what things look like finished, I figured I'd toss it up and see who had what ideas.

[Matthew N. Masail]

why does it have to be hickory?

[Kenneth Speed]

I made my bench top out of 8/4 ash and it's been great. Maple is, of course, the traditional choice for workbench tops.

Ken

[Casey Gooding]

Why do you want sapwood? Generally, it's not going to be as hard as heartwood. Why not see if your sawyer can get you a few big, thick slabs and glue them together? Or, better yet, one or two slabs. My sawyer back in Florida gave me several white oak slabs that were probably 6 inches thick, 18 inches wide and 8ish feet long that I had hoped to make a bench with. Sadly, they were left there when I moved.

[Joe A Faulkner]

Adam, I am a huge fan of hickory, but I really struggle working it and can't imagine trying to flatten a workbench made of the stuff. Actually what I can imagine is a lot of aggravation and frustration over tear out. It will make a beautiful bench no doubt, but my advice is to select a different species. If you want some dramatic contrast, consider some 8/4 maple or ash as your primary lumber and maybe do your outside edges in walnut. If you haven't worked any hickory with hand planes, you might get some 4/4 or 5/4 stuff and make a small stool, cabinet or box. If you have worked hickory with hand planes, and aren't concerned, then go for it, and do you give lessons? :)

P.S. Lot's of workbenches here to check out. One thread with several examples: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?68822-Show-me-your-workbench!!!!&p=691364#post691364

[Adam Cruea]

Adam, I am a huge fan of hickory, but I really struggle working it and can't imagine trying to flatten a workbench made of the stuff. Actually what I can imagine is a lot of aggravation and frustration over tear out. It will make a beautiful bench no doubt, but my advice is to select a different species. If you want some dramatic contrast, consider some 8/4 maple or ash as your primary lumber and maybe do your outside edges in walnut. If you haven't worked any hickory with hand planes, you might get some 4/4 or 5/4 stuff and make a small stool, cabinet or box. If you have worked hickory with hand planes, and aren't concerned, then go for it, and do you give lessons? :)

P.S. Lot's of workbenches here to check out. One thread with several examples: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?68822-Show-me-your-workbench!!!!&p=691364#post691364

Why yes I have worked hickory by hand. Only by hand. My workshop is now down in my basement, so I've no real alternative down there except hand tools. And no, I'm not totally concerned about working hickory with hand planes (except for slight tearout). The biggest issues I have are tearout from a dull blade (easy fix), letting the plane skip (not so easy, as it takes a lot of down force), grain changing direction (can't help that), and the fact that I've actually had a corner cut me because it was sharp. lol

Casey> That's actually why I want a sapwood top. . .it's a little softer, easier to plane, and seems a little less prone to tear out. I also find it better looking than the heartwood.

I was hoping to laminate it all butcher-block style. I figure if I lay the boards flat like a slab, it would cup and well. . .that's just annoying to deal with. But you've given me an idea now. I might see what my sawyer can simply get in hickory.

Matthew> It doesn't have to be hickory. . .but since the base is already made, that part has to be hickory. :D I'm just looking for something that will contrast heartwood and sapwood (since I've mixed the two on the base for the most part). Mainly, I just want a bench that can be beat to death and be around for a few generations.

I was thinking of maybe using cherry, or another darker wood (like Jatoba). Any personal experience folks can give me on that?

[Joe A Faulkner]

It's the grain changing direction characteristic that tends to give me fits. Good luck with your bench. Look forward to seeing that top, whatever you decide.

[Adam Cruea]

It's the grain changing direction characteristic that tends to give me fits. Good luck with your bench. Look forward to seeing that top, whatever you decide.

Well, between you, me, and the other guys/gals here. . .I was hoping to get a low-angle jointer to plane the top and see if that dealt with the grain changing direction. :D

[David Weaver]

a low angle plane or proper use of the cap iron in a bevel down plane will work it fine.

I'd go with soft maple for the top, or ash if ash is less than soft maple. A couple of years ago when the emerald ash borer first hit, I was seeing $1.50 a board foot for ash from some places. It wouldn't be my first choice for a maple top, but if I could get 8/4 for $1.50 kiln dried, I'd learn to live with it.

Otherwise, I like soft maple because it'll be hard enough to make a decent bench top, light colored so that you can easily see things on the bench and soft enough to work fairly easily.

[Adam Cruea]

a low angle plane or proper use of the cap iron in a bevel down plane will work it fine.

I'd go with soft maple for the top, or ash if ash is less than soft maple. A couple of years ago when the emerald ash borer first hit, I was seeing $1.50 a board foot for ash from some places. It wouldn't be my first choice for a maple top, but if I could get 8/4 for $1.50 kiln dried, I'd learn to live with it.

Otherwise, I like soft maple because it'll be hard enough to make a decent bench top, light colored so that you can easily see things on the bench and soft enough to work fairly easily.

On a BD plane, you just want to take out a very, very thin shaving to avoid tearout, right?

[Prashun Patel]

If I were you, I'd just get some soft maple. I'm sure yr dealer can get it; it'll be cream color, comparable in price to hickory (perhaps cheaper) and is easier to work.

Also, you mentioned butcher block; did you mean end grain up? If yes, then I submit that this'll be really hard to work flat with handtools.

I'm not poo-pooing yr idea, but I just think there's an easier way to get to where you want.

[Adam Cruea]

If I were you, I'd just get some soft maple. I'm sure yr dealer can get it; it'll be cream color, comparable in price to hickory (perhaps cheaper) and is easier to work.

Also, you mentioned butcher block; did you mean end grain up? If yes, then I submit that this'll be really hard to work flat with handtools.

I'm not poo-pooing yr idea, but I just think there's an easier way to get to where you want.

My definition of butch block is what other people I believe call laminated. Instead of being on their faces, they're on edge, like this:

---
vs
|||

Make sense? And yes, I have made sure he can get soft maple and quickly. He said that's not an issue.

[Dale Cruea]

Adam,
I have found that with BD planes you move the chip breaker very close to the edge of the iron and take very thin cuts.
This works well on most wood I have planed.
A BU LA plane will work some times taking very thin cuts.
LA BU planes appear to be easier to push than a standard BU even it you have a 35* secondary angle on the iron.
Sometimes the LA BU 25* plane will reduce tear out pretty well.
You just have to try both planes in different configurations to see what works best.
My advice to you is to get a LV LA BU jointer or jack. I think you will love it after you get used to the tote.
You may want to get 2 irons for it and use it as a shooting plane. 25* and the 38* irons.
I have a LV LA jack I can use a a long smoother. Works great.
The PM-V11 iron is great so far for end grain at 25*.