Anybody Use HF Gambrel And Pulley Hoist?

[Derek Arita]

I'm going to need some kind of hoist to upright a DC and this one looks as good as any, at a good price. I have a support beam in my garage for the upstairs rooms, so I'm thinking I can use it to attach this hoist to and lift the DC. I have no experience with hoists, so I'm wondering how to mount the hoist to the beam? The beam is covered with drywall, but looks to be about 18" x 7" and is closer to the garage door, than the back wall. Bottom of the beam is 8' high. Total weight of the DC is 220lbs and hoist is rated at 440lbs.

[Paul Wunder]

http://www.maasdam.com/

Have you thought about a come along. Steel cable, locking ratchet mechanism, 1000 lb weight capacity. About $40. I have this one and have used it to upright heavy tools. This one is available at ACE Hardware

[Derek Arita]

http://www.maasdam.com/

Have you thought about a come along. Steel cable, locking ratchet mechanism, 1000 lb weight capacity. About $40. I have this one and have used it to upright heavy tools. This one is available at ACE Hardware
I'll def check that one out. Thanks! And what's the best way to hook up to the beam?

[Bernie May]

I would drill a hole and screw a big eye bolt screw (3/8" or bigger) into the beam about three inches. Hook a come along to it and have two big guys hang on the come along to test the strength of your bolt. then hoist away.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

I would drill a hole and screw a big eye bolt screw (3/8" or bigger) into the beam about three inches. Hook a come along to it and have two big guys hang on the come along to test the strength of your bolt. then hoist away.
Derek
Some years ago I was asked to build a very large cross for our church. It was to be attached to one of glue lams with 4 each 1/2" x 4" long lag bolts. Not knowing what the pull out point of 1/2" lag bolts. I did some testing on a sample of the beam with the same size lag bolt, had the start of wood to bolt failure at 500 lbs hope this is some help. Tom

[Derek Arita]

I would drill a hole and screw a big eye bolt screw (3/8" or bigger) into the beam about three inches. Hook a come along to it and have two big guys hang on the come along to test the strength of your bolt. then hoist away.

Not being experienced in this...would an eye bolt hold OK?

[Jerry Bruette]

I would drill a hole and screw a big eye bolt screw (3/8" or bigger) into the beam about three inches. Hook a come along to it and have two big guys hang on the come along to test the strength of your bolt. then hoist away.

Skip the eye bolt and come along just have the two big guys help you lift the DC it's only 220 pounds. I had three friends help me move a 800 pound gun safe up four steps into my house and down the hallway and it only cost three twelve packs of beer.

[Derek Arita]

Skip the eye bolt and come along just have the two big guys help you lift the DC it's only 220 pounds. I had three friends help me move a 800 pound gun safe up four steps into my house and down the hallway and it only cost three twelve packs of beer.
If I had 2 big friends to help...1 big friend to help...even one wiry skinny neighbor to help, I wouldn't be asking about this. LOL. It's always been the 3 of us...me, myself and I.

[Alan Schaffter]

My wife and I put up a heavy 3 hp DC motor/blower unit - 9' in the air in my garage.

It is easy- first make a leg assembly from two 2X4's that are as long as you want the DC high. In my case they were just slightly shorter than the height of the room. I mount the motor/blower to the legs and set the feet, in my case on a 2' high foundation wall, and just walked the assembly up like a ladder. I supported the blower end on a small ladder so from the get go the legs were supporting some of the weight. The higher it gets the less you need to push, until the legs are vertical and supporting all the weight. It only takes two 1/4" lag bolts to attach the assembly to the wall studs since the legs support the weight. I added an eye bolt up high for a safety rope and to use to lower the assembly for maintenance. I have since lowered and raised the assembly single-handedly!

A version of this technique can be used to support a traditional cyclone (my is configured as a push-through.)

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1329/medium/P10100382.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1329/medium/P10100922.JPG

[Paul Wunder]

Derek,

Sorry, no pictures. When I hung my cyclone, I lifted it by constructing a homemade elevator using the theory of counterweights I temporarily attached two pipes to the ceiling joist, about 2 feet apart and two feet long. I then tied four ropes to the cyclone and threw the ropes over the pipes. Then attached barbell weights to the ropes to offset the weight of the cyclone. That worked for me and I was all by myself. Without barbell weights you could pull up and secure one rope at a time (that would reduce the weight significantly). Of course, that would take awhile to adjust each of the four ropes.

If I had a come along at that time I would have used that

[Kevin W Johnson]

I have a HF 440lb electric hoist that I found on CL for $60. I already had a beam that I made from 3 2x8's, glued and screwed together, with two 8" eyebolts I used with a come along. When I got the hoist, the eyebolts were spaced just right to run a heavy steel rod thru them, providing an easy way to mount the hoist and remove easily if I need to.

[Myk Rian]

I would drill a hole and screw a big eye bolt screw (3/8" or bigger) into the beam about three inches.
And have it pull out? No way is that safe.
I wrap a 1" chain around the beam, and hook my 1 ton chain fall to that. When lifting something heavy I'll stick a 2x4 from the floor to the beam for support.

[Gordon Eyre]

My goodness guys, this thing weighs 220 lbs. not a ton. My neighbor and I easily set up my dust collector by ourselves. Using a good sized lag bolt in your beam should be more than sufficient.

[ray hampton]

My wife and I put up a heavy 3 hp DC motor/blower unit - 9' in the air in my garage.

It is easy- first make a leg assembly from two 2X4's that are as long as you want the DC high. In my case they were just slightly shorter than the height of the room. I mount the motor/blower to the legs and set the feet, in my case on a 2' high foundation wall, and just walked the assembly up like a ladder. I supported the blower end on a small ladder so from the get go the legs were supporting some of the weight. The higher it gets the less you need to push, until the legs are vertical and supporting all the weight. It only takes two 1/4" lag bolts to attach the assembly to the wall studs since the legs support the weight. I added an eye bolt up high for a safety rope and to use to lower the assembly for maintenance. I have since lowered and raised the assembly single-handedly!

A version of this technique can be used to support a traditional cyclone (my is configured as a push-through.)

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1329/medium/P10100382.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1329/medium/P10100922.JPG

when you said two 2x4 I were wondered what held the 2x4 up until I see your wall, using a 2x4 this way are taking a change of the plank breaking

[Alan Schaffter]

when you said two 2x4 I were wondered what held the 2x4 up until I see your wall, using a 2x4 this way are taking a change of the plank breaking

???? I don't understand- What would cause and how would the "plank" break? The motor/blower is attached to the 2 X 4's with 4 lag bolts (plus nuts and washers) and each 2 X 4 is attached to a wall stud with long lag screw- all the weight is axially supported by the 2 X 4's and there is almost no torsion. Just one 2 X 4 could support the weight!

[Michael W. Clark]

This is along the same concept as Alan's post above for his fan/motor assembly. Why not attach a stand to it or a temporary frame to it, then rock it up so that it is standing upright. Then you can move it into position. If you are using a wall bracket, go ahead and mount it to the cyclone, then slide the whole assembly over to the wall and attach the wall bracket to the wall. This way you are not handling 100% of the weight, only a % of it.

Mike

[ray hampton]

???? I don't understand- What would cause and how would the "plank" break? The motor/blower is attached to the 2 X 4's with 4 lag bolts (plus nuts and washers) and each 2 X 4 is attached to a wall stud with long lag screw- all the weight is axially supported by the 2 X 4's and there is almost no torsion. Just one 2 X 4 could support the weight!

correct if I am wrong but you said that you bolt the unit to two 2x4 and walk/raise the unit up the wall and the plank would be at its weakness at a 45 degree angle between the floor and wall , two 2x2 would hold the weight up if the weight could be balanced on their end

[Michael W. Clark]

correct if I am wrong but you said that you bolt the unit to two 2x4 and walk/raise the unit up the wall and the plank would be at its weakness at a 45 degree angle between the floor and wall , two 2x2 would hold the weight up if the weight could be balanced on their end

Ray,
It depends on where you apply the force to create the torque required in walking up the load. The closer to the floor you are, the more stress on the 2x because the motor is hung out there farther, un-supported. The closer to the motor, the less stress. The closer you get to vertical, the load becomes more axial (like a column) instead of bending (like a horizontal beam). Think of it like a lever arm, you need the same amount of torque, but the force required is dependant on how far you are from the point of rotation.

Mike

[Alan Schaffter]

correct if I am wrong but you said that you bolt the unit to two 2x4 and walk/raise the unit up the wall and the plank would be at its weakness at a 45 degree angle between the floor and wall , two 2x2 would hold the weight up if the weight could be balanced on their end

Nope, at 45 degrees (at any tilt angle) the force on the 2X4's is still an axial one not a bending one. At 45 degrees the 2X4's are only supporting half the motor/blower weight, again axially, the human is providing the other half. It is a vector issue. The human force is applied to the motor blower, first directly, then using a crutch when the motor gets too high, so there is NEVER a bending moment applied to the 2X4's. These things don't weight that much.

Yes, two 2X2, two 1X4, or even a single 2 X 4 could be used to raise the blower, though a single 2X would want to spin.

[Larry Edgerton]

I routinely pull machinery up to different levels on jobs with a winch. I use two 3/8" bolts or lags to pull up full size tablesaw and jointer. That being said, hire someone for an hour, cheaper and easier.

Larry

[ray hampton]

Ray,
It depends on where you apply the force to create the torque required in walking up the load. The closer to the floor you are, the more stress on the 2x because the motor is hung out there farther, un-supported. The closer to the motor, the less stress. The closer you get to vertical, the load becomes more axial (like a column) instead of bending (like a horizontal beam). Think of it like a lever arm, you need the same amount of torque, but the force required is dependant on how far you are from the point of rotation.

Mike

when a 2x4 team are use to walk something up a wall, the force start at the top then may end at the bottom, if you are willing to guarantee that the plank will not break then we need to take your word for the guarantee

[Rod Sheridan]

Put a nylon strap around the beam, hang the come-a-long from the strap...........Rod.

[Ron Natalie]

I have a chain hoist on a trolley that rides the structural beam in my hangar. I just used the hoist hook and a some chain to stand up my Griz GO440 on it's stand.