coreing lubrication

[Harry Robinette]

I would like to know what lubrication your all using on your tools when coring. I've heard WD-40 but I hate that stuff so what else is being used.
Thank for the help

[Bob Bergstrom]

You could use Achor Seal. It is a waxie liquid. I have found spraying a lubricant directly into the grove with the blank spinning works pretty well. It will lub the wood and the cutter at the same time.i don't use the thin straw with the spray, but just hold the nozzle close and give it a shot a couple of times during the cut.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I quit using WD 40 as it stained some nice maple pretty deeply. So the walls were pretty thin to get the stain out.

[Harry Robinette]

Bob and Bernie
Anchor Seal is a water mix that would swell the cut close I would think, Bernie That's one reason I don't use it. But thanks guys.

[philip labre]

I've used Pam, or other spray vegetable oil. Haven't tried anything else though, so can't make a comparison.

[Don McClure]

I do my cores with the One-Way system and have found that either water in a spray bottle or compressed air works well. Be sure your cutter is sharp.

[Mark Levitski]

I'd be careful about using anything that would stain or would interfere w/ a finish later. I only use lube on the tool shaft and gate (WD 40, I like it and use it around the shop a lot, especially on my jointer, BS, TS tables and lathe ways). I think I've used wax on my coring tools as well. It would probably be cut off the roughed out piece and wouldn't penetrate to cause problems later. I agree that keeping chips clear and the tool sharp are perhaps more key, esp. clear kerf.

[Bob Hamilton]

I use TopCote which dries to a waxy film on the knives and gate of the McNaughton system. It is intended for table saw tops, jointer tables etc. to let the wood slide smoothly so I figure it should help the knife to move easier into the cut and the shavings to eject.

Bob

[Pat Scott]

Before I start coring I clean off any build up from the cutter and also the sides of the knife where it goes through the gate. Then I spray the knife and gate with WD40 and wipe off the excess. I do this just to try and prevent buildup on the knife. Not sure how effective this is because I still get buildup. I can't remember if I've tried TopCote or any of the other waxy lubricants, but I would think they would work just as well or better.

I don't spray anything inside the groove. Both my hands are on the tool, I don't have a 3rd hand to squirt. I think trying to do this to a spinning bowl is asking for a big mess. Or do you stop the lathe and then squirt? Still sounds like a big mess.

[Reed Gray]

I seldom lube the coring blades. I have used Pam, which is basically canola oil. I have used the pads that I apply my walnut oil finishes with, and Top Coat as well. It is seldom really needed, and truth be told, most of the time I just forget. Keeping the shavings off the tool rests helps a bit, and I just brush them away with my hands.

robo hippy

[Ryan Baker]

I usually don't use any lube. I've used WD40 a number of times, and frankly don't notice that it helps any at all. I sometimes wax the blades with paste wax if I need a little extra slip. Water or water ased products are just going to swell up the wood and make things worse. Oils can stain the wood.

[Bob Bergstrom]

It seems to me that as my McNaughton got more used I experienced far fewer catches. I would say I get it sharper, and perhaps much better at following a prescribed line. It certainly has worked better than when it was new. I do back the cutter totally out of the grove before spraying WD 40 into the spinning grove. My cores are at least 1" thick so I have not notice any staining on finished bowls.

[Harry Robinette]

Thanks all
That's exactly what I was looking for. I've tried most of these so I guess I'll just use the one that seams to work. That is wax everything blow it out
regularly and spray it with something that wont stain the wood.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

In my limited experience with coring, I use Teflon dry lube on the gate and knives. Since it's clear, I don't think it stains the wood. I use dry lube since it doesn't attract the dust that the wet lubes can. The dust piles on the gate anyways, so I don't really know if being "dry" helps.

Some day I'll be able to get 4 bowls from a blank.

[Jeff Nicol]

The best thing is to make sure you relieve the cut as you go into the core, this allows the shavings to clean out better and not bind on the cutter. Keeping the shavings out of the cut and the cutter sharp are key, but if you want to go to the trouble I know a guy who cleaned off the paint and sanded down the finish on the knives and polished them to an almost mirror finish. This makes the surface slippery smooth and the gunk slides off much better, lots of work but the knives look real cool!

When I first started coring with the McNauton I was tentative and got jammed up more than I liked, but then I sped up the lathe a little at a time until it cut cleaner and the chips cleared out faster, and now I don't use any lube and just keep the cut open a little wider through the cut.

Jeff