Having black walnut logs milled tomorrow.

[mark frost]

Having black walnut logs milled for the first time and I do not have specific projects in mind. So thoughts on what I should have milled. Also how I should have edges treated. On edges I think I have these options.

Edges on both sides left not milled.

One edge milled straight to have edge to put against table saw fence later.

The logs are 26" diameter so have them cut down the middle producing one straight edge and more stable lumber.

Log sizes 7'6" length 26" dia. straight clear no branches. 16' X 26"-22" some branches 6' X18".

4/4 for most it some 10/4 for legs? send me your thoughts.

I plan to get pictures of the process and post them here later.

[Danny Hamsley]

I have cut a bunch of walnut. After slabbing, leave the edger boards that come off the cant as you square it live edge. Cut the 4/4 at 1 1/8" thick. Cut some of the very best grade (boards near the outside of the log) at 8/4 (2 1/8" thick). These are good for leg stock and thick table tops. Cut some 6/4 (1 5/8" thick) for table tops. Cut a mix of thicknesses.

[mark frost]

Danny

I think I read one of your post and mentioned the 1 1/8" to the mill guy the other day he said it would a waste. Does this allow for getting cleaner stock (more planer passes)? Thanks for your input.

[Paul Murphy]

I would definitely have legstock milled of at least 10/4. Curved rear chair legs often are cut from 8/4, so you may want some of that.
A 5/4 rough board finishes at ~7/8, which is my minimum for dining table tops. A 6/4 rough board will finish at ~1-1/8 which is nice for large desk tops.

If I understand correctly, you have 3 logs.
With that in mind, I would cut some nice long 5/4 and 6/4 from the butt log. Just me, but I wouldn't "cut down the middle producing one straight edge", as you wouldn't have symmetry on plain sawn boards, and also I love wide boards.
From the middle log I would cut 10/4 and probably some 8/4. Table legs aren't very long, but I don't like any knots in my legstock. Sounds like your middle log would yield quality legstock.
From the top log I would cut 5/4 and/orpossibly 4/4, because you'll have to cut around more knots and that seems less wasteful on the thinner stock that usually gets cut into smaller parts anyway. If you want the crotch for feathered panels you might plan those cuts for the appearance you like.

It sounds like very nice walnut, my favorite wood. Stack it well, and please share lots of pictures with us. I'm sure you'll make some beautiful walnut furniture in a year or two!

[Danny Hamsley]

Paul makes some good points. Cut the thicker stock from the best part of the logs and on the worst part, cut 4/4.

As to thickness, 1/8" over the nominal dimension is a standard in the hardwood industry. Commercial hardwood sawmills add that 1/8" to all dimensions. For example, 6/4 is 1 1/2" plus 1/8" = 1 5/8". Pine, on the other hand, is cut nominal, so a 4/4 rough pine board would be sawn at 1".

I have cut a whole bunch of walnut at nominal without the 1/8", and most can plane out to 3/4, but when you add the
1/8", you can yield longer boards that will plane out (the longer the board, the harder it is for the board to stay perfectly flat without a little bow along the length). This makes jointing the board on one face to flatten it, and then plane the other face to final dimension so much easier, especially for long stock. Another advantage is that if some of the boards
are sawn a little thinner than target because of variation in the process and stress in the log (and that happens), that
extra 1/8" will save your bacon.

[Scott T Smith]

Paul makes some good points. Cut the thicker stock from the best part of the logs and on the worst part, cut 4/4.

As to thickness, 1/8" over the nominal dimension is a standard in the hardwood industry. Commercial hardwood sawmills add that 1/8" to all dimensions. For example, 6/4 is 1 1/2" plus 1/8" = 1 5/8". Pine, on the other hand, is cut nominal, so a 4/4 rough pine board would be sawn at 1".

I have cut a whole bunch of walnut at nominal without the 1/8", and most can plane out to 3/4, but when you add the
1/8", you can yield longer boards that will plane out (the longer the board, the harder it is for the board to stay perfectly flat without a little bow along the length). This makes jointing the board on one face to flatten it, and then plane the other face to final dimension so much easier, especially for long stock. Another advantage is that if some of the boards
are sawn a little thinner than target because of variation in the process and stress in the log (and that happens), that
extra 1/8" will save your bacon.

+1 to everything that Danny has advised. Although each species is different, a good "rule of thumb" to use when milling most lumber is that flat sawn will shrink 6% in thickness as it dries, and quartersawn will shrink 12%. Therefore, a board milled at 1-1/8" will dry down to 1", allowing 1/8" per side for clean up.

Extra thickness is especially important on wide boards, because of the greater wood movement across the face of the board. If I'm milling a board that is greater than 12" wide, I'll mill it even thicker to allow for post-drying clean up.

You would be wasting your time milling one straight edge and leaving one edge live, because the board will move while drying and the milled side will not be straight enough to use as a ripping guide in the tablesaw (unless your boards are very short).

When milling walnut, typically you want to flat saw it and center the pith in the boards.

[Danny Hamsley]

Scott,

That is an excellent point about the shrinkage in the "thickness" of the board. Many sawyers do not give this enough thought. Also the extra thickness for the "post-drying-clean-up" on the wide boards. They do not always dry perfectly flat! Frankly, I have seen some poorly sawed lumber. Given the time to cut, skid, saw, stack, dry, unstack, and plane lumber, it makes sense to do the job right with quality results.


Also, there is a difference in cranking out rough sawn construction grade lumber and sawing high quality hardwood lumber for furniture. I am sure that many of you on here appreciate well prepared lumber.

For those of you who do not know, Scott saws and sells beautifully prepared, wide, quarter sawn white oak lumber that he dries in his kiln.