Input on New Adapter by Best Wood Tool

[Glenn Barber]

http://bestwoodtools.stores.yahoo.net/onepihetachr.html

Anyone tried this yet? Sounds like you can use it in headstock with a chuck. Seems like it should reduce run out found on some threaded adaptors. Looks to be a great solution.

Glenn

[Rick Markham]

Hey that's pretty slick Glenn, just make sure you use the draw bar on the headstock side... might get kinda exciting without it! :D

[Alan Trout]

I agree with Rick as long as you use a draw bar and don't get to crazy with cuts it should work fine.

Alan

[Dave Fritz]

I've used one but I screw the chuck off the head stock, then screw it on this unit, mount it in the tail stock and line up the bowl in a vacuum chuck. It makes getting things lined up much easier. I'd be nervous about screwing the chuck in it while turning on the head stock.

Dave F.

[Tim Rinehart]

I'm with Dave in that I've used one only for positioning a piece for reversing on a vacuum or donut chuck. I think even with a drawbar, using this as primary drive isn't what it's designed for and may have little benefit...and could get a bit dicey. I don't think this type of taper is really designed to carry alot of torque, either.
When you say using as a solution to threaded adapters...are you referring to the threaded adapters inside the chuck? If so, you'd still have the same runout issues, with another element added in.

[Alan Trout]

Looking at this piece it is a little different the what then holdfast unit is. The threaded section appears to be machined as part of the taper where the holdfast unit is aluminum threaded section over a JT6 taper and not intended to be spun in the headstock. The taper will take more abuse than you think. Would I use this in place of a threaded insert? No. Would I use it in a pinch? Probably, for a final light cuts but would for sure use a drawbar.

Alan

[Rick Markham]

This one is designed to be used as a drive, it's machined from a single piece of steel. I think this is more aimed to older lathes that may have an odd threading on the spindle, but have a morse taper. I definitely wouldn't consider using it as a drive without the drawbar. I agree, if you are using a Nova chuck you certainly are going to have still use an insert, as that's Nova's chuck design. It's a creative solution to a problem most of us don't have. I also have one designed for reversing the chuck on the tailstock.

[Glenn Barber]

I have a couple of Nova Midi chucks that are direct thread 1" x 8 tpi (no insert) that I am wanting to use on my larger 1 1/4" x 8 tpi lathe. Just trying to figure out which way to go for adapting them, chucks, to the bigger lathe.

Rick/Alan- "Exciting".... uh yeah..... I learned quickly about the importance of a drawbar using a Jacobs chuck while thru-drilling fishing lures on my Jet 1014 a few years ago. It didn't get airborne, but started to "walk" out on me. Now I never use it without a drawbar. One length for headstock and a different length for tailstock.

Glenn

[Dan Henry]

They are designed for reversing, turn your piece with a face plate or chuck, leave it attached to the piece and remove it from the head stock and put in the tail stock and now the piece is almost perfectly lined up with the head stock. This great when using vacuum chuck or when a piece would be turned on one lathe and move to 2nd lathe, this will keep the alignment. I use one in my ornamental turning to be able to change from lathe to anther.

Dan

[Roger Chandler]

+1 to Dan's comment above...........the adapter is made for reversing your bowl without having to take if off the chuck and that way you get it centered for vacuum chucking. It is made in both steel and aluminum..........I have the aluminum one and would not recommend one for a drive center.........the weight of the chuck on it will cause it to spin inside the morse taper and even with a draw bar attached you will not get the drive power of a spindle threaded chuck mount.

if you need it, just get a spindle adapter that is the size you need for your chuck and use it............that is what they are
designed for. This is what you need.........check for the correct size threads........they have several sizes available.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LA1834.html

[Rick Markham]

I guess no one else read the product description... THIS one is designed for use in the headstock too (with a drawbar.) That's what makes it "different" from the "other" ones (which I have one of and frankly it just sits in the bottom drawer of my turning toolbox.) I'm not trying to stir the pot or anything, or saying this is an ideal way of doing anything, I'm just stating that it says you can use the dang thing in the headstock too! :p:D

Personally going with the proper adapter/insert is the best way to go anyway!

[Harry Robinette]

I'm with Dan and Roger their made to reverse your chuck. I'm no metallurgist but I would never put a steel chuck on an aluminum adapter and then torque it on there with the force of turning. I think you'll have a permanent set-up. Also I have one and I don't think it's strong enough to hold the torque.

[Rick Markham]

This is directly from the manufacturers description:


"This is the ultimate spindle adapter. Use any chuck or face plate on any number of lathes. Works with any lathe with a #2 Morse Taper spindle. This high accuracy adapter is specifically designed for use in both your lathes headstock and your lathes tailstock. This allows you to turn your project clamped in your chuck and then transfer your project to your tailstock. Once it is mounted in your tailstock simply move your tailstock up to your vacuum chuck, apply vacuum, release your chuck and your project is perfectly aligned and ready to finish. It also allows you to transfer your workpiece from one lathe to another lathe without the loss of any accuracy.

Unlike low cost two piece Tailstock Chuck Reversing Adapters this solid one piece heavy duty steel adapter is guaranteed to have runout of +/-.001” or less. This is by far the most accurate adapter sold anywhere.

For use in your headstock you will need to use a length of 3/8” x 16 threaded rod or you can choose one of our new low cost drawbars sold separately below."

[Scott Conners]

Looks like any number of taper adapters. It should work great in the headstock, adapters like that have been used for lathes that only have tapers for years now, they work great. That one looks very well made.

[Glenn Barber]

Rick-That info is precisely why I was wondering about any firsthand experience. As I said in my second post, I am looking to use my two Nova Midi chucks on my larger lathe....the Midi size (and jaws I plan to use on them) will limit the workpiece somewhat.

I had already planned to call Best Wood Tools on Monday and talk with them directly. I will report back what I learn from them.

Glenn

[Harry Robinette]

I haven't seen the solid steel mine is aluminum. That's all I've seen.

[Rick Markham]

Me too Harry, this is the first I've seen. I went and looked mine is a two piece one, a steel morse taper with an aluminum head screwed on. Glenn I could see if you were swapping pieces between lathes how it "might' help reduce runout. Though I don't think swapping an adapter in the chuck itself would affect run out much anyway. I personally agree with the other guys that it's going to be easier to swap the insert, than to deal with a drawbar in your headstock. Seems like a royal pain in the butt, to me.

Sorry fellas, I wasn't trying to be a butthead, but sometimes the devil is in the details. My first thought when I saw the picture was the same as yours, reading the description changed that.

[Pat Scott]

I have one of these adapters that Craft Supplies sells, I use it in the tailstock to help with remounting an item when using my vacuum chuck. My only comment is claims of "perfect" realignment are a stretch. I get just as good of alignment when using a dimple for the live center as I do with the adapter. The adapter is nice when I forget to mark a dimple, but otherwise its just OK.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I bought one of these from Best Woods to use my smaller chucks on my big lathe. http://bestwoodtools.stores.yahoo.net/precspinad.html It is solid and works great. A lot less hassle that a MT 2 with a drawbar.

[Glenn Barber]

Bernie-Thanks for the input. How's the run-out with this adapter?

Glenn

[Will Winder]

I've been using one of these bestwoodtools.com MT2 to 1"-8TPI adapters in my lathe for the past year. My lathe is an antique and the headstock has an uncommon thread arrangement.

There does not seem to be any runout and it has never slipped.

Most of my work consists of bowls in the 4-7" range, but I have done one in the 11-12" range. I have stalled the 1/2 HP motor many times while using this adapter, so I can say for a fact that this adapter isn't the weakest link on my current lathe. My only complaint about this tool is that it is really hard to get out once its in, which is a good thing in many ways!

[Glenn Barber]

Thanks Will, great to get some first hand knowledge!

I have called BWT and left a message for a follow-up call. I'll report when I hear something.

Glenn