Is SAFETY one of YOUR priorities?

[Dale Thompson]

Hi Folks,
Over the past many decades that I have had the enjoyment of woodworking, I've been very lucky in terms of accidents. Minor stuff--but nothing of consequence. On the other hand, over the past three months, I have taken two "rib shots" from my PM 66. Fortunately, none of the blood got on either the Walnut or the Mahogany. Aside from some hideous bruises and some even more hideously bruised pride, I came out OK. Both instances were my fault--the wood talked to me--I didn't listen--WHAM--don't mess with Mother Nature!! It's a darn good thing that 99% of my tools are smarter than I am!

This brings up the question. What do YOU do EVERY TIME to insure your safety-- and WHY? Your comments may help the rest of us reevaluate our habits in terms of safety.

We could comment on things like replacing blade guards and kickback devices whenever possible, wearing eye protection, using ear protection, using "push sticks" or "push blocks", installing "magnetic switches", etc., etc.

My own "thing" is to ALWAYS put on the face shield when I am using the grinder. Whether I am sharpening lawn mower blades or lathe chisels, I use the shield! I also use it on the lathe. I've only had ONE chunk of Oak fly off and bounce off the shield (I'm ugly enough as it is--I don't need any additional Oak scars). Also, it does a great job of keeping the chips out of my face. Maybe that is my motivation. By the way, the face shield also works good when using the router to cut dovetails--for the same reason!

My motivation? I think I read somewhere that, in England, a special license is required to run a grinding wheel. I've never had a problem ---but, who am I to challenge English law? Anyway, a wheel in the process of disintegration could REALLY leave a bruise!! In this case, there would be no warning. :(

Dale T.

[Dave Arbuckle]

They say a picture is worth a thousand words. So's to spare y'all all that reading:

http://users2.ev1.net/~arbuckle/ripping/3090001.jpg

That's my tablesaw set up in the usual manner for a rip cut. What you don't see in this picture is the faceshield that I wear for -every- cut, and the hearing protection I wear -every- time.

What you can see in this picture, but can't really tell, is that there is indeed a splitter installed on the saw. Every rip cut, it's there.

Dave ;)

[Tom Sweeney]

But it's a good one Dave.

I'll admit that I am not known for my safety consciousness - not something I'm very proud of - just a fact.

I will say that I find myself thinking about it more when I'm woodworking than when I'm doing house repair / rehab kind of work. I think that's a positive. I was even wearing hearing protection a little bit ago when I was using my new planer - that's a first.

I really would like to get an overarm shield & better splitter setup for my tablesaw.

Good idea for a thread maybe others will chime in.

[John Wadsworth]

My PM66 has the Bies overarm sawguard and the Bies pop-out splitter. I always use both on rip cuts, and always some kind of push block or stick. Sometimes featherboard, sometimes not.

On crosscuts, both square and mitered, whenever feasible I'll use my Jointech sled, even though this means the sawguard has to be raised to clear the crossbar on the sled. Never had a problem.

Always wait for the saw to stop before reaching for cutoffs--well, sometimes I cheat and flick small pieces away with the eraser on the end of a long pencil.

For any big power tool use, always prescription shatterproof glasses (with side guards) and earmuffs.

Always use the DC with table saw, bandsaw, jointer, or planer. Haven't got the chopsaw station built yet, so I try to set it up on sawhorses with the overspray going outdoors. Usually run the hang-from-the-ceiling dust scrubber for an hour after each session. Don't use the router table much.

Probably should wear a dust mask more often. Probably should wear a face shield when grinding.

[Bob Janka]

I'll chime in with my safety habits...

I use the Craft Center at NC State University for my wood-working. Before using the woodshop, everyone (students and/or public) must complete a 150 question test on shop layout, safety, courtesy, and tool usage. To help people prepare for the test, they can take this 6 session course offered every semester and shown below:

How to Use Woodshop Machines and Handtools (Introductory class) (http://www.fis.ncsu.edu/Crafts_Center/SUMMER/wood.htm)

George Thomas, an associate director of the Craft Center, teaches this class. He has over 20 years of experience in woodworking and shop instruction. He emphasizes safe use of ALL the tools (band-saws, jointers, planers, table saws, lathes, grinders, sanders, etc.)

Two rules stick in my mind: One, <b>always keep your hands 6" away from any blade or cutting edge</b>. (This is the distance from the tip of your thumb to the heel of your hand if you hold your thumb out straight, 90 degrees from your index finger). Use jigs, push sticks or push shoes to move pieces smaller than that across the cutting edge.

Two, <b>wear safety gear</b>. I purchased a face shield to get full face protection and use it for ALL machines. I also wear ear plugs (triple flanged, both plugs on a cord) rated at 20+ dB protection. I also wear a pleated dust mask (think of Darth Vader with a white jaw ;-). This is especially IMPORTANT if you work with exotic woods like Cocobolo (known to cause allergic reactions) or even some domestics like Walnut. I wear the dust mask ALL the time.

A final safety benefit: There is a student attendant who is trained on proper and safe usage of the power tools. This gives us all a second pair of hands on the larger, unwieldy items as well as an extra pair of eyes to catch any "oops".

To their credit, the Craft Center has had only 1 ambulance visit in 20 years. A student had cut himself, saw the blood and fainted. Any loss of consciousness automatically gets you a ride :).

A non-safety benefit is the community of fellow woodworkers. I've learned a lot about woodworking by asking someone "what kind of wood is that?" or "whatcha making?". I'm now to the point of helping others figure out things. Yesterday, a guy who has seen me turning pens asked me about grain orientation for some lamp finials.

I heartily recommend attending classes at a local high school, community college, craft center, or wherever. You learn a lot about how to use tools safely and can share with other woodworkers.

Cheers,
Bob

[Dave Avery]

Overarm blade guard...... hearing protection...... eye protection...... respirator when sanding...... proper dust collection and air filtration...... hands several inches from the blade at all times...... pushticks...... large outfeed tables...... NEVER, EVER, reach across or over the blade, and related, ALWAYS wait for the blade to stop before removing scraps or ripped pieces.

[Ron McNeil]

Great Thread

Safety is a major concern to me and I'm afraid I'm failing badly. I removed my sawguard and splitter from my 64A Powermatic table saw and even though I've made a sled to use on cross cuts up to 17" inches I have nothing for rip cuts. I've looked for a manufacturer who makes an overarm sawguard and pop-out splitter for my left tilt contractor saw and have not found anyone. If anyone has any information for this saw and the above equipment I would sure appreicate any info. I use the faceshield, ear plugs and resperator most of the time.

[Lee Schierer]

All those mechanical devices are good, but the best safety device is the one you carry btween your ears. Like all others you have to use it to make it work. Always think about the cut you are making and walk through the cut in your mind before making it. If it doesn't feel safe or it makes you uncomfortable doing it, then find another way.

That little voice you hear saying hey this could be dangerous..... usually knows what it is saying, listen to it. I'm very much attached to all my parts and want to keep it that way. Saws and cutters are all faster than I am and too dumb to know if they are cutting me or the piece of wood so you have to do the thinking for them too.

[David LaRue]

Tablesaw Safety is always a priority with me. I still use the stock guard on my PM66. Yes, it can be a hassle, especially when you have small parts that get trapped inside the guard. But the alternative is not too good. 10 years ago I had a kickback with a guard in place (different saw). Lots of noise and comotion, a damaged guard, and bruised ego was all that got hurt. Since then I have refined respect for the table saw.

I have built a bunch of different of different jigs and sleds, mostly inspired by Kelly Mehler. I feel these make my woodworking more enjoyable and safer. Some of the accesories I have made include:

A blade crown for use with my Dubby
Several crosscut sleds
Outfeed table
Small parts ripping Jig
Zero Cleance Insert
Stop Block
Short fence for ripping
Featherboards (on the table & on aux fence)
Auxilary fence for use with Grip Tites

Plus the push sticks, safety glasses, dust collection system, air filtration system, chemical mask for paint spraying, dust mask etc...
:)

[Dave Anderson]

Looks like we are mainly talking about the tabls saw...

I always wear short sleeved shirts, never wear a watch or rings, never use gloves, always wear safety glasses, always wear a hat, always use ear protection.

I use featherboards and push sticks on ALL ripping operations, self-made sled for ALL cross-cuts, splitter but no blade guard (but a GOOD after-market guard is on the "get" list). I use a zero-clearance insert and the right blade for the job at hand.

I think, think and think again about any operation before I do it - this has proved invaluable!

<u>No <b>booze</b></u> until after the closing whistle has sounded.

I can still count to ten.:D

[Dale Thompson]

Gentlemen,
You folks make me look pretty bad when it comes to the SAFETY issue. I wish I had your smarts and patience. Have I mentioned the small Oak frame which took off a few layers of skin after I tried a "simple" counterbore on one hole without securing the piece?

My wife has the key to my shop language. If I just yell, OW!!, she knows that it's just me who took a hit. As long as I'm yellin', she knows that I'm not dead. If she hears me use profanity, she knows that I have damaged a piece of wood. The level of profanity ditates the value of the piece which has been damaged.

Someone mentioned the booze thing. Good input! If there is one good way to get a BAD injury, it's to mix ethyl alcohol and carbide. Another of my ABSOLUTE shop rules is to never take or allow a drink in my shop. In addition to everything else, it can stain the wood, if spilled. The only tool that I allow myself to use with a beer or a Manhattan under my belt is the shop vac. Even that is probably pretty stupid. Thanks for all of your inputs.!! :) :)

Dale T.:D

[Paul Kunkel]

In the interest of speed(time is money), I don't use any guards. I'm not advocating anyone else work this way, but it is my way and has been for a long time. I do use a stock feeder alot, and frequently a featherboard. I cut the end of a finger off a couple of years ago, and it serves as a constant reminder to pay attention, concentrate on the one thing I'm doing, and not be in the line of fire. My one most important cardinal rule is not to use power tools of any kind if I'm alone on the premises. I live 40 miles from the nearest emergency room so any major bleeding would mean help would have to come from within. Work safe!

[Bob Janka]

Originally posted by Lee Schierer
Always think about the cut you are making and walk through the cut in your mind before making it. If it doesn't feel safe or it makes you uncomfortable doing it, then find another way.

That little voice you hear saying hey this could be dangerous..... usually knows what it is saying, listen to it.

Please allow me to extend Lee's excellent advice.

I find that actually doing a dry run of the cutting or shaping operation helps me realize what I may be missing.

For example, I was re-sawing a 2 3/8" x 25" turning square on the band-saw to make some pen blanks. With the saw OFF, I setup the fence to 3/4" spacing, lined up my wood, and mimed pushing the wood through the blade. I realized that I did not need a push stick, but I did see that the blade guard had been left high by the previous user (someone who was re-sawing 5" wide 3/4" cedar boards to 3/8" thick). I lowered the blade guard, double-checked everything, lowered my face shield and turned on the bandsaw. A few minutes later I had 3 strips 3/4" wide and all body parts still attached.

This dry run approach has helped me many times, especially when I'm ripping something narrow on the table-saw. I usually find that the push-stick I have is not quite the right width or size. I then find a better push-stick before making my cut.

Thanks to everyone who has posted replies to this thread! It always helps to have reminders about the number one rule when working with machinery: BE SAFE!

Cheers,
Bob