Hardware advice needed / tool cabinet coming together

[Bob Jones]

I need everyone's favorite thing to give - opinions :) Actually, I need just one one good idea. I have built all the major pieces of my new tool cabinet. More details of the build are given here --

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?187648-Diagonal-grain-for-panel-Tool-cabinet-preview

Anyway, here is what it looks like now with all three doors temporarily installed. I need a good idea for hardware to go on the front to keep the doors closed. I had an unusual hook fastener, but I did some experimenting and I was not happy with the function. It looked great, but did not keep the doors closed well. The doors are clamshell type. I won't bore with details that are in the other post, but I'd be glad to answer any questions.

Some points to consider in making suggestions.

I have considered using magnets, but I would rather use real hardware.
I don't mind if the hardware is a bit expensive, but I want it to look nice and function very well.
Brass is good. Iron is ok, too.
The doors close nicely on their own, I just want something more to look right and keep the doors closed.
I would like a unique solution.
I don't need a lock, but I am not opposed to them.

Thanks!

[Bob Jones]

more pics with the doors open.

i guess I never explained the "3rd" door. It is hinged to the center piece. When the cabinet is closed it is on the left half, and it is set 2 inches back to make room for tools to hang on the surface without interfering with the left door. Once the left door is open, the inset door can hinge over to the right side and my bench planes will be on the left side back wall. Adding this inset door gave me 4 "door panels" for hanging tools, doubling that space. I think it will make more sense when I actually get places for tools in there. That will be a while at my pace...

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

In my in progress cabinet, I've installed some double ball catches. (http://www.whitechapel-ltd.com/product/ballcth/145CD1.html) So far, they seem to be working well. I'll see what happens as I progress - so far I've got a bunch of chisels mounted in the smaller door and it's working well. I bought a cheap version from Amazon. Mounting it to the clamshell doors involved mounting the catch part to a small piece of wood, and mounting that to the door, since unlike a frame and panel door, the door frame is the same thickness as the carcase frame. I mounted mine at the top for now, but I suppose if there ends up being some sag on the door, you could mount it on the sides to help take a little weight off the hinges.

I like your "3rd door" setup. I'm still weighing that option on mine, I guess I'll see how things end up as far as putting stuff in there.

[Casey Gooding]

In the past I have seen rare earth magnets that can be sunk into the wood and then covered by a wood plug. Those might be an option here. Then, you don't have any hardware getting in your way inside the cabinet. Can't remember where I saw them so you may have to do some hunting.

[Bob Jones]

Thanks for the tips. I'm considering them... Please send more.
Sorry to be annoying with all the pictures, but tonight I put on the first coat of BLO and I can not resist posting a couple of images. :D
I still have a long way to go, but I am seeing the light...

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

That's looking great, Bob. Isn't the first time you pop some finish on something just terrific? Love the crispness on those raised panels.

I think I should have gone with hinges like that over the piano hinge I used on mine. Given that if at some point I don't rehang the left hand door to fix the alignment and reveal, it'll bug me till the day I day, maybe I'll go that route.

For now, though, I'm realizing I need to stop obsessing over trying to fix my mistakes and get the thing usable and on the wall so I can get my shop space back! Lost enough time remaking the left door after I realized I put the panel in wrong-side out and ruined the look.

Even with it standing on the floor, though, having most of my chisels and marking supplies in place in one door makes life so much easier, though. So much less hunting and pulling things out of random places in the back room. I always try and sharpen before I put away, but so far, the handiest thing about the cabinet is being able to put chisels in with the bevel facing the other direction to remind me I still need to resharpen that tool.

You probably mentioned this before - what's the size of that cabinet?

[Jim Matthews]

Have you seen the Krenov style door catch (http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworking/forum/archives.pl/bid/1001/md/read/id/445716)?

It's a small wooden spring, fitted to the face frame of a cabinet that catches a door from the top.
Each door has a small mating mortise to accept protruding pawls.

A spring-loaded button variant has been made, using the spring from a ballpoint pen.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L-5cAAaAzFQ/TZoAyPZeRfI/AAAAAAAAADg/ADwsKPmJ2NA/s1600/buttoncatch.JPG

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

The Krenov door catches are neat, I've seen his writing about them, but would they work with these "clamshell" style over-lay doors?

[Bob Jones]

Yeah, I don't see how those stops would work with this type of door, but thanks for the suggestion.

[Bob Jones]

The cabinet is 40in x 30in x 15in outside dimensions. The case is 10in deep.

[Jim Matthews]

A good point.

This cabinet is so beautifully finished, there aren't many places to hide a latch.
I'm thinking the hidden magnet might be best, after all. I'm thinking a simple sliding dowel across the front, centered across the opening might do.

Not to be flip, but would a small velcro patch be sufficient to keep things closed?
Even a rough felt rub strip between the clamshell doors might make for a "sprung" closure.

Piano repair shops sell it in heavy, thinner rolls.

It's an interesting problem.

[John Coloccia]

I'll second magnets. I use magnets to keep the door on my paint booth closed! Magnets are ideal in a wood shop because there's no mechanism to get gunked up with sawdust.

[David Keller NC]

Bob - Have you considered "Shaker Spinners"? Essentially, they're just rotating pieces of wood attached to a shaker knob on the outside. On your piece, since both doors open outwards, you would want to mortise a hole for the spinner itself, and a receiving hole on the other door. They work very well (some have been in use for over 150 years!), and are cheap - just your labor ans some scrap pieces of wood.

[John Coloccia]

Bob - Have you considered "Shaker Spinners"? Essentially, they're just rotating pieces of wood attached to a shaker knob on the outside. On your piece, since both doors open outwards, you would want to mortise a hole for the spinner itself, and a receiving hole on the other door. They work very well (some have been in use for over 150 years!), and are cheap - just your labor ans some scrap pieces of wood.

Oddly enough, that's what I use to keep my paint booth door OPEN. Another good workshop mechanism.

[Bob Jones]

David,
Thanks for the tip on Shaker Spinners. I was not familiar with them at all. That is just the type of suggestions that I wanted when posting the question. I'm going to do a little more thinking now... :)