A Stanley #5

[Ethan Liou]

This is my first post on SMC. I am kind of nervous.

OK. I was looking at some pics of a vintage #5 toady. Due to my very limited experience on this subject, I have no idea how to date this plane, or how much it's worth, or is it even restorable. Considering I am living in Taiwan, where vintage tools are rare, I really don't want this opportunity to slip.

I am a newbie woodworker. Right now, the only three bench planes that I have:
1. stanley #4 (plastic tote, 8+ years old, bought it brand new)
2. veritas LAJ
3. veritas BU jointer

If you were in my place, would you consider this plane? and for what price?
I need your advice. Any thoughts is welcome.

240827240828240829240830240831240832240833240834

[Archie England]

Welcome to the SMCreek!

Everything looks solid (= has good bones) on this plane but there's plenty of cleaning to be done. As to type, it's later than the 11,12, or 13s but without seeing the frog, I'm not sure of the date--but looks pre-WW2. Cleaned, tuned, sharpened, and looking ready to go, these can fetch around $45 (sometimes more/less). As is, well, that's anybody's guess. IMO, $20 avg. If you can get it for $15 or less, that would be great; once at $25+, you've paid perhaps all it's worth; and, you won't know its worth until you do what's required to sharpen and fettle the plane.

As to need...with your LAJ and BUjointer I don't consider this essential. However, it could be radiused for hogging off material like a scrub plane or it could be used as an all purpose smoother/jointer--doing neither as well as dedicated 4s or 7/8s. The Stanley #5 was the first plane I bought and I like them (and it has nostalgic value for me). Once I invested in other planes more suited for specific tasks, I realized why the #5 is call a "jack" plane: it's a jack of all trades but the master of none.

My suggestion for your next needed plane is for a quality block plane. But, I'd never suggest to a fellow woodworker not to buy a vintage tool to restore and then use or release back into the work force.

[phil harold]

help dating can be found here
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=240835&d=1347197720

[Jim Koepke]

Ethan,

Welcome to the Creek.

The patent date and "kidney" hole on the lever cap started in about 1933.

The small depth adjuster wheel may be from WW II production. If it is steel instead of brass, that would be due to the use of different materials during WW II. The war year production of Stanley planes also saw a suspension of including the frog adjustment screw on many planes. Some people like them for a slightly heavier casting.

There are four Stanley/Bailey #5s in my shop. They are one of my most used sizes of plane. In addition to those there is also a LA Jack that sees a lot of use.

I am a bottom fisher and look for the lowest prices. In your situation this might not be a reasonable way to acquire tools.

Price is often dependent on location of the seller and buyer.

My opinions on what this plane is worth to me really doesn't relate to your situation.

Maybe the best way to determine how much to pay is to figure out how much the cost of shipping such a plane from the U.S. to you would be and pay less than that.

If you have the opportunity to try it out, that can also help to see if it works well. It could be a good complement to your current LAJ.

jtk

[Kenneth Speed]

Hi and welcome to the creek. The question is what is the plane worth to you and what you want to do with the plane. I don't think it's a collectible but looks like it can be a solid user. No. 5 planes are probably one of the most common sized planes ever made and are readily available stateside in all different levels of quality and made by a raft of different manufacturers. If you want that plane as a user and want to spend a little time cleaning it up and adjusting it and it isn't very expensive then buy it. I'm in agreement with Archie, I'd not want to spend more than $20.00 or @25.00 for it in the U.S.


Ken

[Ethan Liou]

Thanks guys. Here's a follow-up. The seller decided not to sell the plane. I didn't even get the chance to make a bid. (Sigh)


Archie, I do have a block plane. However, mine is not a very good one. It's a contractor grade stanley block plane that a friend picked up for me years ago. I managed to do what I can do by flatterning the sole, etc. After sharpening the blade, I was able to cut beautiful end grain shavings on hard maple, but not so much luck with pine. My guess was the 45 cutting angle (bed 20 + blade 25) would be a little too high for softwoods. But when I resharpen the blade to 20 degree, the blade doesn't hold its edge after just a few strokes. I think I do need a better one, a low angle one perhaps.


Phil, thanks for the link. I realized I need to do some goole image search to understand what the chart is saying. For example, I have no idea what a frog rib is. (a little embarassing to say)


Jim, thanks for showing me where to look on a plane.


Kenneth, I am a user. I don't think I stand a chance to be a collector even if I want to. :D


Thank you guys. I think I have a lot of learning to do before my next chance shows up.

[Jim Koepke]

Ethan,

Here is a good place to learn a lot about the changes in Stanley/Bailey planes over the years:

https://home.comcast.net/~rarebear/planes101/typing/typing.htm

A few hours reading this and you will know where I get most of my knowledge of old planes.

jtk