Parting Multiples From Spindle Problem

[Chris Harvan]

Scroll chuck at tail, live center at business end. Turning cylindrical. Parting off multiple pieces for later detailing and assembly.

During the parting with a DIY edger blade thin parting tool I inadvertently wind up getting the parting tool wedged between the piece coming off and the remaining stock and thereby pull the blank out of round.

I have resorted to sawing off the last bits rather than blowing through, but this is... less than elegant and is definitely killing production time.

Anyone know of a video or technique for doing this fast and clean?

Thanks you in advance!

[Dale Miner]

A couple of things. The "scroll chuck at tail, live center at business end" has me confused. I would refer to the tail as the tailstock, and the business end as the headstock.

When parting with the tailstock pressure against the end of the piece, it is normal for the piece to climb the edge near the end of the part. When the wood does climb the edge, the gap at the bottom of the kerf become more narrow and pinches the blade making the wood climb, making the wood pinch, etc. The pressure of the tailstock is part of the issue, the flexing of the last little bit of wood is the main part of the problem. Making a relief cut with the parting tool to widen the kerf as parting progresses will help with the binding.

Without knowing what you are making, I will assume since you used the word multiple, that the remainder of the stock held in the chuck will be used for another part. If so, then when the part is nearly parted off, and the kerf has had clearance from making a relief cut as the parting progressed, remove the tailstock support and lightly cradle the part in your right hand while finishing the parting off with the tool held in your left hand. Reducing the rpm's may be needed for this step. The length/diameter ratio of the stock remaining in the chuck will limit the use of this technique. If the stock is long and thin, this method will not work and the use of a spindle steady adjacent to the part on the headstock end of the part will be needed.

[Peter Fabricius]

Hi Chris;
If you loosen the tailstock a little and make a double wide cut with the parting tool you should avoid the jamming as you cut through.
Also you can support the cut from the back with your left hand.
Hope this helps. Naturally, I assume you are not toothpick thin and 8 inches long...LOL
Peter F.

EDIT: Nicely said Dale, we were typing at the same time.....

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree with Dale and Peter. A picture of what you are trying to do would help.

[Chris Harvan]

Mr. Miner,

LOL. Yeah, the end that I am parting off at isn't really the business end is it? The "business" really starts at the motor. Sorry for my dyslexia.

So, yes. Scroll chuck at headstock. Live center at tailstock.

Thank you SO much for your description! Spot on. I knew there had to be an elegant solution.

[Chris Harvan]

Going double wide next time too. Thanks!

[Brian Brown]

Even though we consider the wood dry, it is really only "dry enough to turn". The wood always contains water, and as the friction heats your tool, it heats the wood, and causes the water in the wood to expand, causing the wood to swell. This tightens the wood on the tool, just making the problem worse. Lather rinse repeat. Try... I'll try to describe this ... wiggling the parting tool. The reality is you are quickly rotating it about 1 degree right and then back, and one degree left and back. This causes the tool to make a slightly wider cut, giving you the same effect as a double wide cut, but in less than half the time. It takes a bit of practice, but it works well, and keeps the tool from binding.

[Rick Markham]

I'm with Brian, you don't need a full second width of the tool, even just the tiniest fraction of the tool's width is required to prevent binding. I personally don't wiggle the tool, but I will every so often pause and make a thin relief cut on the waste side of the work piece. It only takes a split second, then back to parting. We all have our ways ;)

[James Combs]

Brian said pretty much what I would have. I would have called it "twisting" or "turning" the parting tool CW & CCW slightly around the tools axis but, well you should have the idea.


Even though we consider the wood dry, it is really only "dry enough to turn". The wood always contains water, and as the friction heats your tool, it heats the wood, and causes the water in the wood to expand, causing the wood to swell. This tightens the wood on the tool, just making the problem worse. Lather rinse repeat. Try... I'll try to describe this ... wiggling the parting tool. The reality is you are quickly rotating it about 1 degree right and then back, and one degree left and back. This causes the tool to make a slightly wider cut, giving you the same effect as a double wide cut, but in less than half the time. It takes a bit of practice, but it works well, and keeps the tool from binding.

[Reed Gray]

Easiest way is to turn the cylinder, then take it to the bandsaw. You will need a V sled to put the rounds in so they don't twist up your blade as you cut them. The sled can be put in a miter gauge, then pushed through for what ever lengths you need. Faster, and safer as well.

robo hippy

[Chris Harvan]

This is my first post in the overall turning thread. I am not dissapoint. Thank you so, so much all of you.