Stanley/ Craftsman #18?

[Michael Arruda]

Hello all,

I just picked up another plane at an antique shop. I've been looking for a nice plane with an adjustable mouth for a while. This one came up and I snatched, thinking it was a Stanley #18. It looks like an 18. It acts like an 18. It feels like an 18. So, it's definitely... a Craftsman No 5256, as is marked on the side of the plane under the finger groove. The blade is marked Craftsman, too.

Did anyone else make a dead ringer copy of an 18? Is this a Stanley product?

Thanks,
Michael

PS- never trust your eyes. The store was kind of dim and I thought the plane was pretty minty. I just got home and lo and behold, it's not minty- it's restored. Kind of. In an antique shop, dunno about tools kind of way. Wire brush cleaning under the lever cap, The body was apparently repainted, as there's signs of pitting under the paint. The blade is chipped, and the throat is chipped in a couple places behind the blade- it's chipped enough that I don't want to file it away or I think it'll open it up too much. Should I a) leave it alone, b) fill it with epoxy and sand smooth, or c) tig weld and file smooth?

[Jim Koepke]

Stanley did make planes for Sears. Other makers also made them.

Sadly, most antique shops do not have return policies.

I tend to ask them if they have a magnifier and a good light if there is a tool I am interested in.

When my intention is to go rust hunting there are a few things including a magnifier brought along, screwdriver, a small piece of sandpaper, magnet and a magnifier.

I would leave the chips alone if they do not affect the work.

jtk

[Greg Wease]

With that number I think it may have been made by Millers Falls. The shape of the lateral lever is a good indicator--post a pic. How bad is the chipping at the throat? Epoxy won't hold up and brazing is likely to warp the sole so I'd use it as-is.

[Bill Houghton]

Worry less about maker than about condition. Many of the Craftsman tools, made by Stanley, Sargent, Millers Falls, etc., were quite good (granted, some of them were a waste of cast iron and steel). If it works for you, it's a good tool.

On the body chipping: try it out first. I wouldn't use epoxy - likely to come loose when you're doing a finishing run on a piece you've got hours into. If you find the chipping is catching wood chips, I'd carefully file the chips smooth. On the other hand, if you're good at cast iron welding, and know what you're doing, might be a "go for it" repair.

Blade chipping: if it's on the edge, easy enough to grind out.

[James Harvey]

Hey! I just scored one of those in very good condition. I also have a Stanley 18 and the 5256 is almost but not quite identical. It is close enough that I am 100% certain it was made by Stanley. The foot inside the knuckle cap is wider and the knurling on the knob is straight up and down, the Stanley is angled. Suspect the real 18 is older.

It'll go in the spooge tank as soon as the weather warms up.