How do you use your bar gauge?

[David Wadstrup]

Hello,

I have a rookie question. I've never used a bar gauge before, and was wondering if it is a tool I'd find useful. From what I've read, it seems that their primary purposes are for checking case squareness by comparing diagonals, and for comparing dimensions generally. (I also can see how they'd be useful when setting up work to be cut on table or miter saws, but I'm a hand tool only woodworker, and can't see how I could take advantage of this function.) Can anyone tell me what other uses they may be good for? Also, is there a way to use them to TRANSCRIBE or TRANSFER dimensions, rather than simply COMPARING them? This would be a very useful tool for me if so.

Thanks for your help,

David

[Jim Koepke]

I built one for a particular use and haven't used it much since.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?151635-Inside-Measuring-Yard-Sticks

I find using scrap pieces to make story sticks more useful and a good record for a particular project especially if it is kept with any notes.

jtk

[Jack Curtis]

What's a bar gauge?

[paul cottingham]

I use mine all the time. Made them out of some ironwood flooring and the heads sold by LV. I hate measuring, and all the potential for error it introduces, so they are indispensable for me.

[David Wadstrup]

I use mine all the time. Made them out of some ironwood flooring and the heads sold by LV. I hate measuring, and all the potential for error it introduces, so they are indispensable for me.

Thanks for responding, Paul. How exactly do you use them? Do you use them to transfer/transcribe measurements? If so, how? I'm finding out difficult to wrap my head around how, or if, this is done with this particular tool.

Thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.

[paul cottingham]

I use mine to square up assemblies, and to make sure that surfaces are parallel to one another. I don't use them to transfer measurements, as I don't tend to use them. Does that help?

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I've used 'em to check diagonals, and as Paul says, to check make sure things are parallel to one another. I've also used them for fitting making measurements to fit things like panels or drawers or doors or whatever when I didn't really have a handy way to scribe onto a story stick. I always manage to move something around and get the stick out of whack. For doing work in fitting things in our music studio a while back, they were invaluable when we wanted something a little more accurate than a tape measure (I can't seem to remember a measurement by the time I get to the bottom of a ladder) and story sticks were awkward in a few places.

It's really the same concept as showing a piece to your work, except with one more step in between.

Mine were from a toolbox I bought years ago for the saws - a couple of bent pieces of metal (bent like a "u") with thumbscrews threaded in them to clamp a couple of thin strips of wood in place. Same idea as the LV gauges. I've since lost them, and replaced them with the LV gauges and some strips of wood, but I've used two straight pieces of wood and spring clamps in a pinch.

Also was really handy when I was helping make some replacement drawers for a piece of furniture in the music studio - made it easy to quickly confirm that yes, the same size drawer will fit into all of these holes with an acceptable gap, and won't bind anywhere unexpectedly.

[glenn bradley]

You can use a couple sticks and a spring clamp. You can slot a strip of scrap and use a carriage bolt and a wing nut. The bar gauges just make the task a little more refined, repeatable and reliable. I use them for doors, drawers, carcasses. I use them as story sticks, checking inside dimensions in awkward locations and so forth. When making the "bars" for them, make up a set of several different lengths. They don't take up much room and are easier to make in batches rather than stop and make one special for that future need. Certainly not a requirements but, like setup bars or a striking knife; once you get used to thinking about them as you are working, they become part of how you do things. They are a great, inexpensive item to put on wish lists for folks who want to buy you a "woodworking" gift and don't know what to get.

240548

[Ryan Baker]

I use them to transfer measurements from the insides of cabinets and other places where it is difficult to get an accurate measurement. A couple scraps sticks or dowels and a couple clamps will do just fine for those rare occasions when you find yourself needing one.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I've been using the ones from Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32585&cat=1,43513,43553) like Glenn shows in his picture; but I just noticed LV's got some new ones (http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=69879&cat=51&ap=1) . . . somehow for such a simple thing that don't need to be that complicated, they're tempting. Must be because they're shinier. Although the price makes it less appealing. (Not knocking Rob on the price, just not where I want to spend money)

[Kenneth Speed]

I had some which eventually broke and I just recently replaced them. I find that if I'm out of the shop I use a zig zag rule for many of the same functions. One can use a bar gauge to make a story stick or to check an inside measurement between walls but I think bar gauges aren't really made for job site conditions.

Other than checking diagonals I suppose one can use them as a story stick for sequencing drawer fronts or doors for a visually pleasing grain pattern although I have to admit I've never used them that way.

Ken

[Jack Curtis]

Aha, that's what they are! I even bought a couple of the little heads years ago, often use them with an unfolded wooden ruler, especially for check case squareness.

[Jim Ritter]

I have used the bar gauge for measuring and cutting precise pieces with no numbers to remember or transfer. Let's see if I can describe it clearly. I use this method only for pieces within the cutting capacity of the miter gauge. Pick up the measurement with the bar gauge and place the gauge against the miter fence. Set the stop on the fence two or three inches longer than the bar. You are going to cut a piece of scrap so make it big enough to hold. Now with the bar against the stop on the fence and a scrap of wood on the business end, start the saw and cut the scrap off. You now have the fence set at a combined distance of the bar gauge and a scrap of wood. Remove the bar gauge and slide the scrap of wood over to the stop on the miter gauge. Lay in the actual piece of wood you want to use and butt it up to the scrap at the fence. Start the saw and cut it off. Assuming things were all square (fence, blade, stop,etc) you now have a piece of wood exactly the same length as the bar gauge. And no numerical measuring. I keep a stock of 3/4 x3/4 rips near the saw for just this use. I hope this makes sense. It is faster to do than to write about. It is two cuts but there is no trial and error.