How Should I Spray Lacquer?

[Derek Arita]

I have to refinish my bathroom cabinets. I have an HVLP sprayer that I have never used. I also have a good compressor that I could use and I could buy a spray gun. Which would be better for this job? Which is easier to work with, as I have never used either?

[John Coloccia]

What model/gun/tip setup do you have for the HVLP? That will really determine what your best bet is. Generally, with all things being equal, a good turbine setup will give better results than a conversion gun with a compressor...but all things are seldom, if ever, equal.

[Terry Beadle]

Lacquer requires air filter for the operator. Your lungs need to be protected even if you spray out side.

Lacquer can be fed through your HVLP gun but the tip has to be sized right. I've had good results with a $30 spray gun and shot the finish out side to avoid potential explosions or fire from over spray. Pick a good sunny day with little or no wind. Lacquer is very forgiving if you get dust nibs or a bug or two. Just sand and repeat until you are happy and then bring it back inside and finish the finish ( if you know what I mean ). The $30 spary gun has a fairly large jet where as my more expensive HVLP gun used for auto finishes is smaller and won't give you the production you need for wood surfaces. Get your lacquer supplier to know what size jets your gun will need.

[Derek Arita]

Lacquer requires air filter for the operator. Your lungs need to be protected even if you spray out side.

Lacquer can be fed through your HVLP gun but the tip has to be sized right. I've had good results with a $30 spray gun and shot the finish out side to avoid potential explosions or fire from over spray. Pick a good sunny day with little or no wind. Lacquer is very forgiving if you get dust nibs or a bug or two. Just sand and repeat until you are happy and then bring it back inside and finish the finish ( if you know what I mean ). The $30 spary gun has a fairly large jet where as my more expensive HVLP gun used for auto finishes is smaller and won't give you the production you need for wood surfaces. Get your lacquer supplier to know what size jets your gun will need.
Terry,
thanks for the reply! Where do you get this $30 spray gun? What size jet do you use for lacquer?

[Mike Henderson]

While shooting lacquer outside is a good idea, make sure you're not in direct sun. The sun (or a heat lamp) will cause the finish to bubble. Keep the work in the shade until the finish is well cured. Learned that the hard way.

I use a 1.8 tip for lacquer (best I can remember).

Mike

[Brian Brightwell]

Shellac does the same thing. FWIW

[Larry Fox]

I have to refinish my bathroom cabinets. I have an HVLP sprayer that I have never used. I also have a good compressor that I could use and I could buy a spray gun. Which would be better for this job? Which is easier to work with, as I have never used either?

Not trying to be rude or unhelpful but if you are at this level with your spraying I don't think you should be spraying lacquer. Spraying is a whole different ball game than other types of finishing and lacquer (and lacquer thinner) is not stuff to be trifled with. It is not THAT you are spraying as spraying is easy - it is WHAT you are spraying. You might be better served looking at some of the water-based products as they are easy to spray, durable, very low VOC and not flammable.

[Derek Arita]

Not trying to be rude or unhelpful but if you are at this level with your spraying I don't think you should be spraying lacquer. Spraying is a whole different ball game than other types of finishing and lacquer (and lacquer thinner) is not stuff to be trifled with. It is not THAT you are spraying as spraying is easy - it is WHAT you are spraying. You might be better served looking at some of the water-based products as they are easy to spray, durable, very low VOC and not flammable.
Larry,
Please go on. I'm up for suggestions. I only say lacquer because we just had our kitchen cabs refinished and they used lacquer, with a satin finish. I'd like to use something that looks the same and dries quickly. If it is more durable, even better. Exactly what can I use?

[Mike Henderson]

Larry,
Please go on. I'm up for suggestions. I only say lacquer because we just had our kitchen cabs refinished and they used lacquer, with a satin finish. I'd like to use something that looks the same and dries quickly. If it is more durable, even better. Exactly what can I use?
There are many good water based lacquers. I use Target brand. You can order it off the Internet. Comes in gloss and satin and maybe others.

Mike

[Michael Heffernan]

Derek,
My suggestion is to use a water based lacquer too. Target Coatings and General Finishes both make pre-catalyzed, burn-in water based lacquers. Better for the environment and your lungs. You don't need specialized 'explosion proof' exhaust fans. I set up a temporary spray booth in my shop, made up of 1" thick 4x8 rigid foam boards for the three walls and the top. Cut a hole in the back wall, the size of a furnace filter (cheap, fiberglass filters, not the HEPA ones, they clogged too easily). Secure the filter in the opening, put a box fan behind the wall at the opening and exhaust it out a window. Make sure that there is another opening in the room to pull air from. There are plans out there ( I think FWW has an article on the booth build).
Jeff at Target Coatings is very helpful. He will advise you on the correct product for your refinishing needs. Jeff Jewitt at Homestead Finishing Products is also a very good source. He sells the General Finishes product line and the full gamut of HVLP turbine and gravity spray guns. He will let you know what tip size, spray pressure, viscosity, etc.
Many production cabinet shops are now using water based lacquers. Similar burn-in characteristics, durability, etc. to traditional lacquers.
I know a lot of people spray outdoors in the shade, but if you can, set up in your garage/shop, and use the proper exhaust system. You'll get a good finish once you get the hang of it, with little or no sanding between coats. Practice on some scrap boards until you're happy with your finish technique. Good luck

[Derek Arita]

Derek,
My suggestion is to use a water based lacquer too. Target Coatings and General Finishes both make pre-catalyzed, burn-in water based lacquers. Better for the environment and your lungs. You don't need specialized 'explosion proof' exhaust fans. I set up a temporary spray booth in my shop, made up of 1" thick 4x8 rigid foam boards for the three walls and the top. Cut a hole in the back wall, the size of a furnace filter (cheap, fiberglass filters, not the HEPA ones, they clogged too easily). Secure the filter in the opening, put a box fan behind the wall at the opening and exhaust it out a window. Make sure that there is another opening in the room to pull air from. There are plans out there ( I think FWW has an article on the booth build).
Jeff at Target Coatings is very helpful. He will advise you on the correct product for your refinishing needs. Jeff Jewitt at Homestead Finishing Products is also a very good source. He sells the General Finishes product line and the full gamut of HVLP turbine and gravity spray guns. He will let you know what tip size, spray pressure, viscosity, etc.
Many production cabinet shops are now using water based lacquers. Similar burn-in characteristics, durability, etc. to traditional lacquers.
I know a lot of people spray outdoors in the shade, but if you can, set up in your garage/shop, and use the proper exhaust system. You'll get a good finish once you get the hang of it, with little or no sanding between coats. Practice on some scrap boards until you're happy with your finish technique. Good luck
Thanks Michael. Helps a lot to hear specifics as I am new to this. I'll make some calls.

[Larry Fox]

There are many good water based lacquers. I use Target brand. You can order it off the Internet. Comes in gloss and satin and maybe others.

Mike

What Mike said. I like Target coatings. For an environment like a bathroom or kitchen I prefer the product they call their conversion varnish. It is a *bit* more difficult to spray than their "lacquer" product as it does not burn in as well but only marginally more difficult and still very easy. Many have had good luck with their lacquer in those types of settings but I had it fail me on a bathroom cabinet once and after having to refinish a giant cabinet I now use their CV exclusively in moist environs. Happy to help in any way I can. I would steer clear of their WB shellac unless you absolutely have to use it. It can be a bit persnickety to spray and I have never been able to get consistent results with it despite several attempts.

[John R Hoppe]

Derek,

I agree with some of the above that lacquer is not the medium to start off with, particularly the catalyzed type. Also since this is a bathroom cabinet, the water resistance of the finish needs to be considered, so traditional lacquer is out. Now I will probably get flamed for this one but I personall like to use the Minwax polyurethanes (not water based) and have had very good success with them. You can get them at the home store, they clean up with paint thinner, and they are tough and water resistant. They are not toxic (ie: urethane catalyst), are very low cost, and very forgiving in use.

I use a HVLP spray gun (Grizzly's $30.00 touch up gun is good for small projects) and thin the varnish a little with Xylol until it sprays smooth. Plan on two coats, the first being a thin one, and sand very lightly with 320 paper in between coats. This removes most dust nubs and little imperfections. Wipe with a tack rag and spray the second coat wet but not so much that it runs. You will get a very nice smooth and durable finish when done.

[Derek Arita]

Derek,

I agree with some of the above that lacquer is not the medium to start off with, particularly the catalyzed type. Also since this is a bathroom cabinet, the water resistance of the finish needs to be considered, so traditional lacquer is out. Now I will probably get flamed for this one but I personall like to use the Minwax polyurethanes (not water based) and have had very good success with them. You can get them at the home store, they clean up with paint thinner, and they are tough and water resistant. They are not toxic (ie: urethane catalyst), are very low cost, and very forgiving in use.

I use a HVLP spray gun (Grizzly's $30.00 touch up gun is good for small projects) and thin the varnish a little with Xylol until it sprays smooth. Plan on two coats, the first being a thin one, and sand very lightly with 320 paper in between coats. This removes most dust nubs and little imperfections. Wipe with a tack rag and spray the second coat wet but not so much that it runs. You will get a very nice smooth and durable finish when done.
John, why would get flamed for advising polyurethane be used?

[scott vroom]

We spray General Finishes Clear Enduro Poly on stain grade cabinets. We apply 2 or 3 undercoats of Gloss and topcoat with Satin. We add General Finishes Enduro Crosslinker catalyst to the final topcoat for extra hardness and stain resistance. This would be an ideal, safe coating for your vanity cabinet. It sprays very nicely (we use a Fuji HVLP with the 4H tip (1.4mm). Jeff Jewitt at Homestead Finishing is a great resource - he also sells Target and General Finishes products.

[Derek Arita]

Will the Poly have any problem sticking to the lacquer that's already on the cabinets? My cabinets are the very common looking oak, natural color. Will I have to add any kind of stain to the poly?

[Jim Stanley]

Derek,

I would also warn against spraying the lacquer if you have no experience or proper equipment.
I am an insurance adjuster and specialize in fire claims. In the past year I have seen two homes burned to the ground by improper handling of lacquer vapors.
One was the result of the lacquer vapors pulled into the HVAC return and ignition was from the fan motor 2 stories above where they were spraying. Second was from a gas hot water heater in the garage where they were spraying with lacquer.

Jim

[scott vroom]

Will the Poly have any problem sticking to the lacquer that's already on the cabinets? My cabinets are the very common looking oak, natural color. Will I have to add any kind of stain to the poly?

Enduro Poly is approved for use over solvent based finishes; we regularly spray it over GF Seal-A-Cell and GF solvent based gel stain. You should always check with the manufacturer, however.

[John Coloccia]

Derek,

I would also warn against spraying the lacquer if you have no experience or proper equipment.
I am an insurance adjuster and specialize in fire claims. In the past year I have seen two homes burned to the ground by improper handling of lacquer vapors.
One was the result of the lacquer vapors pulled into the HVAC return and ignition was from the fan motor 2 stories above where they were spraying. Second was from a gas hot water heater in the garage where they were spraying with lacquer.

Jim

I'm just curious. How were they venting the vapors? Or were they not? I'm always interested in learning just exactly what NOT to do.

[Jim Stanley]

They were not venting, had the HVAC running, and the return duct was in the hall which was adjacent to the kitchen where they were spraying both upper and lowers.
No one seriously injured, and no awards for intelligence! ( The contractor had no insurance,,,the homeowner assumed they were insured.)