Jointer/Table Saw what lubricant or wax is best to user

[William C Rogers]

I have been using just Johnsons paste wax on my jointer, planer and table saw. I have been thinking of using LPS 3. What other brands of wax or lubricant do others use?

[David Hawxhurst]

i mainly use crc 3-36 if i run out wd-40. i don't really use wax. the crc or wd-40 stuff is just so easy to use, just spray on a shop towel, wipe and done.

[Bruce Page]

There's not much of a problem with rust here in the SW. I've always used Johnsons paste wax.

[Todd Burch]

Most of the time I use Gulf Wax sold at your local grocery store for canning.

[Jim Neeley]

I use Boeshield T-9, simply for convenience. It is wax dissolved in a solvent. The solvent evaporates, leaving the wax. It's overkill for most surfaces although it goes on so quick and easy that I don't put it off so much. <g> A quick wipe (after the solvents dry) with a towel and it polishes right up.

I'm not saying it's better than paste, just more convenient. You can also spray a heavy layer on a tool you aren't going to use for a while to seal in the protection. Then, to remove it, spray on some more and wipe off. The solvent re-softens the wax.

Being a spray, it naturally gets down in crevices (miter gauge corners, etc.), which may be missed if paste is rubbed in by hand.

[Carpenter Mark]

Butchers White Diamond paste wax works well, wears pretty good and a can lasts years.

[Michael W. Clark]

I have been using Johnson's and no problems. Have lived in NW Arkansas with high humidity and a garage shop. Now in Northern KY, but in a conditioned basement shop.

[David Kumm]

Humidity not being a problem i use canners parafin wax. A box lasts about as long s I will. Dave

[Anthony Diodati]

I'm all for quick and easy, but isn't $10.49 for a 4oz Aerosol Can of Boeshield T-9 Lubricant sort of pricy, or does the 4 oz can last a good while?
That price is at Rockler.


I use Boeshield T-9, simply for convenience. It is wax dissolved in a solvent. The solvent evaporates, leaving the wax. It's overkill for most surfaces although it goes on so quick and easy that I don't put it off so much. <g> A quick wipe (after the solvents dry) with a towel and it polishes right up.

I'm not saying it's better than paste, just more convenient. You can also spray a heavy layer on a tool you aren't going to use for a while to seal in the protection. Then, to remove it, spray on some more and wipe off. The solvent re-softens the wax.

Being a spray, it naturally gets down in crevices (miter gauge corners, etc.), which may be missed if paste is rubbed in by hand.

[Kevin Bourque]

Johnson's wax. If I was going to store my stuff for a long period of time I might try something else.

[glenn bradley]

Another JPW user with years of trouble free tops. SoCal isn't known for its radical weather swings though.

[Peter Quinn]

At work I use boeshield for two reasons. Primary, a lot of material gets passed over each machine per day, and the speed and convenience is great. Plus, past wax tends to build up if not applied and rubbed out perfectly, and that build up can become problematic when the use rate goes way up as in commercial settings. Second, somebody else is paying for that privilege. Its pricy. I bought one can to try at home, it didn't last that long, and I really didn't find it to be a good value for my use. So at home its paste way, mostly I'm using butchers bowling alley wax because its cheap and tough, and doesn't smell too bad.

[Steven Hsieh]

fine woodworking did a test on all rust prevention product.....waxes, Boeshield T-9, etc..
Wax is the one of the worse protection

http://www.finewoodworking.com/Materials/MaterialsPDF.aspx?id=34779

I believe them. I found out it my self also.

I went back using WD 40
and never had any problem

[Scott T Smith]

I have been using just Johnsons paste wax on my jointer, planer and table saw. I have been thinking of using LPS 3. What other brands of wax or lubricant do others use?

William, I would definitely not use LPS3 as a table lubricant. It's a great product, but think "spray cosmoline" and you'll get an idea of what it's like.

My personal preference is Bostik Top Coat.

[Cary Falk]

I use T-9 with a coat of paste wax over it.

[Guy Belleman]

+1 for T-9 with a coat of paste wax over it.

[Larry Edgerton]

I buy Bostic "Top Coat" by the case, case last about ten years, about to buy my 3rd and perhaps final case.

Larry

[phil harold]

fine woodworking did a test on all rust prevention product.....waxes, Boeshield T-9, etc..
Wax is the one of the worse protection
http://www.finewoodworking.com/Materials/MaterialsPDF.aspx?id=34779
I believe them. I found out it my self also.
I went back using WD 40 and never had any problem
OP is looking for Lubricant... not rust protection
I use Slipit

[Charles Lent]

I've used Johnsons Paste Wax for 50 + years, not just on the tops and cast iron, but also to lubricate. I apply it to the the ways and gear teeth of my table saw, jointer, and bandsaw with an old tooth brush. I found that the wax develops a dry surface that does not attract sawdust like other lubricants, so it's not necessary to clean the old wax off before applying a new coat. If any petroleum grease is used it becomes necessary to remove the old grease / sawdust mix before applying new grease.

Charley

[Cary Falk]

If you are looking for lubricant for moving parts, I use this.
240285

[Myk Rian]

I would never use WD-40, or any other oil on a top that wood will come into contact with.
Paste wax melted in with a heat gun works best for me.

[Steven Hsieh]

OP is looking for Lubricant... not rust protection
I use Slipit


Wax is great for jointer,table, planer top.
But I find it that any wax will wear down fast
You would need to wax often
If you dont you will start to see rust spot



In the school they use wet and dry sandpaper to sand the surface of cast iron and sand it to 1200 grit
with hand no power tool
and wax

[Steven Hsieh]

I am wondering who here has compared the Boeshield t-9, Bostik, and crc 3-36 ?
Which one is better lubricant

[Larry Edgerton]

I have Boeshield and Top Cote, and I would say they are not the same thing and have different uses. Top Cote is what I use on tablesaw, etc so that the top has less friction, and gives it some protection at the same time. Boeshield I use in other areas that I want to protect that are not used much or not a surface that needs to be slippery. It does not do the slippery thig as well as Tope Cote.

I have not tried CRC 3-36.

For a straight lube spray I use Aerokroil. Never saw much use for WD 40 in a woodshop, great for drying out distributor caps, but as a lube it sucks.

Larry

[Jeff Duncan]

Wax is great for jointer,table, planer top.
But I find it that any wax will wear down fast
You would need to wax often
If you dont you will start to see rust spot



If your seeing rust spots you have a humidity problem! Wax will not prevent rust....if you don't believe it, wax your top and put a cold can of soda on a warm day on it:(

I use my machines daily and some don't get waxed for years...drill presses, lathes etc.. Wax is used as a table lubricant to allow the material to pass more freely over the tables. In daily use I probably wax my tops every other month. If they get a lot of extra use then just give a quick coat. I thought about trying some of the canned stuff also but saw the prices at Woodcraft and ended that idea:eek:

A agree with Larry, there's very little use for WD-40 in a wood shop. There are better lubricants for most every application. More importantly I don't want oil contaminating my wood....bad mojo:(

good luck,
JeffD

[John Coloccia]

William, I would definitely not use LPS3 as a table lubricant. It's a great product, but think "spray cosmoline" and you'll get an idea of what it's like.

My personal preference is Bostik Top Coat.

Ditto on everything. LPS3 is a long term storage solution. LPS1 is their dry film lubricant (which if you were to use anything, this would be the one...wipe it one, wipe it off....Top Coat is better, though). LPS2 is their oily lubricant.

re: TopCoat vs Boeshield
After treating with TopCoat, I can take a big board and slide is across the surface as though it was a puck on an air hockey table. I've used a lot of Boeshield, BoeLube etc as cutting lubricant, anti-corrosion treatment, and things like that, but it's nothing like TopCoat. As I understand it, the factory blew up and TopCoat disappeared for a while. I almost panicked and started buying up every can I could find. They're back, now :)

[Steven Hsieh]

John

How often do you use your machinery?
Would say topcoat would last for a week for 10 hours a day
before it need reapplying again.

[John Coloccia]

John

How often do you use your machinery?
Would say topcoat would last for a week for 10 hours a day
before it need reapplying again.

Not sure...I'd say I respray it maybe every week or so, depending on use. Maybe every two weeks.

[Scott T Smith]

John

How often do you use your machinery?
Would say topcoat would last for a week for 10 hours a day
before it need reapplying again.


Steven, let me add to John's response. I use Top Coat on a production line jointer/planer, straight line rip saw, and 4 head moulder as well as my personal shaper and tablesaw. The machine with the most use is the jointer/planer. It is generally reapplied every 10 - 15 hours (about ten-thousand board feet of use), although I will apply it sooner if I'm joint/planing 20"+ boards and want minimum drag.

[Biff Johnson]

I shelled out the money for the Boeshield and wasn't that impressed. I've had the best luck with WD40 on the ts, everything else gets a coat of cheap paste wax.

[Tony Joyce]

My own personal observations over the last few years is that "Sprayway SP-295" (formerly 801) is the same product as "Bostik 10220", but at a lower cost. YMMV

http://www.spraywayblack.com/products.php?id=SP-295

[Myk Rian]

If your seeing rust spots you have a humidity problem! Wax will not prevent rust....if you don't believe it, wax your top and put a cold can of soda on a warm day on it

That's something you should NEVER do, no matter what you're protecting it with.

[Myk Rian]

I shelled out the money for the Boeshield and wasn't that impressed. I've had the best luck with WD40 on the ts, everything else gets a coat of cheap paste wax.
You are kidding, right?
WD-40 on a TS top.
That's the big no-no.

[Scott T Smith]

You are kidding, right?
WD-40 on a TS top.
That's the big no-no.


Myk, John, etc: Correct me if I'm wrong, but if a woodworker only use an oil based finish (such as BLO or Tung oil), then any WD40 residue transferred to the wood from the tablesaw surface probably would not matter. However, if projects were finished with shellac, lacquer, water based poly, etc, in these instances any residual WD40 that is on the wood could affect the finish, right (as well as potentially affecting the integrity of glue joints)?

[John Coloccia]

Myk, John, etc: Correct me if I'm wrong, but if a woodworker only use an oil based finish (such as BLO or Tung oil), then any WD40 residue transferred to the wood from the tablesaw surface probably would not matter. However, if projects were finished with shellac, lacquer, water based poly, etc, in these instances any residual WD40 that is on the wood could affect the finish, right (as well as potentially affecting the integrity of glue joints)?

Theoretically you're right, Scott. I try to avoid things like oils on surfaces that my wood will touch. I have on occasion gotten oily things on surfaces, either on purpose or by accident, and I've never had a problem. I think it ends up being a very superficial and minimal coating on the wood if anything, and a little sanding takes it right off even if it's there. That said, I personally think it's bad form because there are better solutions out there that not only perform better but completely alleviate any potential concern. I know some people hate WD40. I don't have anything in particular against it other than products like LPS and TopCoat are so vastly superior to WD40 in every way that I have no reason to recommend it for anything other than cleaning up cosmoline and white boards.

[Darcy Forman]

All of you pros will probably laugh. However, all I use on my jointer and planer tables is bees wax. Makes the tables slick and doesn't hurt the wood. Also, I have lots of it on had. It works well on my minimax since it has the textured grey beds which suits this type of wax well.

[Mel Fulks]

The differences in how these things work is curious . Tried silicone spray once on a shaper circle work " rocker" and It made the machine feed halting and jerky, beeswax is what I use now. For the flat machine surfaces I like Ballistol. If I'm jointing edges for glue it easily wipes off ( as opposed to buffing off) ,and makes a slick ,non transferring film. It will emulsify with water ,allow the water to dry, and then protect against water. A neighbor salvaged a couple of flooded power tools by quickly and heavily spraying them down and then allowing to dry.