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Victor Robinson
08-29-2012, 2:47 AM
Design calls for a 36" wide by 28" high framed mirror for a recessed medicine cabinet. Since the whole framed mirror would swing open (one door), I'm wondering about hinges that could support the heft as well as options to secure on the free side to keep from sagging (the door is wider than it is tall). Would something like Blum hinges work in this application?

Mirror itself would be about 28"W x 20"H 1/4" thick (12lbs), surrounded by a 4" frame of lightweight wood, probably Af. mahogany. I'd estimate the total weight to be 20-24lbs.

Victor Robinson
08-29-2012, 3:48 AM
I should add that I realize a 36" swing-out mirror isn't the greatest idea, so I'm looking for other creative solutions as well (e.g. parallel lift such as Blum Aventos, which unfortunately wouldn't fit). Basically I need to overlay the mirror over a recessed wall cavity. It won't need to be opened all the time every single day, but would provide for some hidden storage in an otherwise small bathroom.

Jamie Buxton
08-29-2012, 10:27 AM
Yeah, that size of mirror/door is worrisome. One alternative is to turn it into three doors. You'd get no seam in the middle, where your face is likely to be. I'd make the doors frameless, at least on the vertical seams between the doors. Another alternative is to make the recess narrower. That is, frame and drywall the opening to produce a recess that's more like 24" wide.

Victor Robinson
08-29-2012, 11:05 AM
Yeah, that size of mirror/door is worrisome. One alternative is to turn it into three doors. You'd get no seam in the middle, where your face is likely to be. I'd make the doors frameless, at least on the vertical seams between the doors. Another alternative is to make the recess narrower. That is, frame and drywall the opening to produce a recess that's more like 24" wide.

Yeah, some of these ideas have been thrown around but ruled out by the client. She is demanding. Aesthetics call for a wide mirror that two people can stand at and she wants the look of a large framed mirror. At the same time she really laments the loss of the storage of a medicine cabinet. I was hoping to satisfy these issues with some creativity or unique hardware...

Victor Robinson
08-29-2012, 11:08 AM
Here's another thought...how about some kind of hidden track that slides the framed mirror? It's not about the size of the cavity...that can be much smaller than the mirror.

Anything like this exist? Mirror on drawer slides? Surely people must make secret compartments behind framed art etc?

Joe Kieve
08-29-2012, 3:41 PM
Since you're putting a wooden frame around the mirror, that should give you something to attach a good quality drawer slide to. Accuride makes a good ball bearing, 28" slide that might work. Can't see why it wouldn't.
Just my 2 cents.

Joe

Andrew Pitonyak
08-29-2012, 4:07 PM
Entertainment centers have large heavy doors.... I know that you probably can't use the slide system, but will similar hinges work here? The EZ Pocket door hinge system from Rockler includes hinges separately...

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21577&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PLA&gclid=CJPu5uTPjbICFcY-Mgod9GMA8Q

http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/CABINET+HINGES/Entertainment+Center+Cabinet+Hinges/

Even a regular door hinge might work if needed.

How about a large piano hinge?

Victor Robinson
08-29-2012, 4:23 PM
Since you're putting a wooden frame around the mirror, that should give you something to attach a good quality drawer slide to. Accuride makes a good ball bearing, 28" slide that might work. Can't see why it wouldn't.
Just my 2 cents.

Joe

You know I was thinking the drawer slide idea had legs, but then I realized it can't move laterally because of the sconces to the side! Ugh! Of course using drawer slides to move the mirror vertically wouldn't be so great unless there was a very secure locking mechanism that would work against gravity.

Victor Robinson
08-29-2012, 4:25 PM
Thanks Andrew. Yeah, I think there are several hinge options but hinges aren't my favorite idea as 36" of mirror swinging out over a 22" deep vanity seems a little wacky.

I'm still hoping I can figure out a way to shift the mirror upwards say 12"-20".


Entertainment centers have large heavy doors.... I know that you probably can't use the slide system, but will similar hinges work here? The EZ Pocket door hinge system from Rockler includes hinges separately...

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21577&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PLA&gclid=CJPu5uTPjbICFcY-Mgod9GMA8Q

http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/CABINET+HINGES/Entertainment+Center+Cabinet+Hinges/

Even a regular door hinge might work if needed.

How about a large piano hinge?

Jamie Buxton
08-29-2012, 9:02 PM
Okay, leave it as a wide mirrored door. Hinge it at the top, and use gas struts to support the weight. It'd be like the hatchback on a car.
Stabilus makes products like this for cabinets: http://www.wwhardware.com/stabilus-gas-spring-lid-stays-st43/ Unfortunately, they have a max height on the door of 24", and you want 28". McMaster-Carr is a source of a wide variety of gas struts -- five pages on their web site. I bought struts there to make a Murphy bed. (And a murphy bed is substantially larger than what you're trying to do.) http://www.mcmaster.com/#gas-struts/=j2e945 You'll have to do a bit of engineering about pivot points and leverage and strut specs, but it can be done.

Hugh Watling
08-30-2012, 11:18 PM
Look into the Blum Aventos lift system

Victor Robinson
08-31-2012, 2:33 AM
Look into the Blum Aventos lift system

I had looked into the Aventos HL, which would have been perfect. However, the mechanism requires 278mm (~11") of cabinet depth. The studs will give me a little less than 6" (outer wall of home), but that means the cabinet would still have to protrude about 5" from the wall, plus the thickness of mirror and frame. Maybe the client will find that acceptable but I have a feeling it won't work for her. By the way, in case it's not obvious, the client is my wife...I assure you I'm not getting paid enough.

Bill ThompsonNM
08-31-2012, 7:46 AM
I installed a 36 inch wide framed mirror in which the mirror was three non framed push to close/open doors. The break between the doors is really not noticeable when using the mirror. I'd hesitate to put up such a large mirror swinging out over a small counter just for safety reasons. The corners out in the middle of the room sounds like a killer. DAMHIKT

allan kuntz
08-31-2012, 9:46 AM
Bill what kind of hinges did you use as I am trying to build a 3 pieces framless mirrored doors like you have done. what did you use for the door itself and how are the mirrors attached
thanks
Al

david brum
08-31-2012, 10:00 AM
I'm sure this won't be cheap, but I think it's what you're looking for.http://www.robern.com/onlinecatalog/resources/pdfs/217_1179.pdf

Victor Robinson
08-31-2012, 1:07 PM
I'm sure this won't be cheap, but I think it's what you're looking for.http://www.robern.com/onlinecatalog/resources/pdfs/217_1179.pdf

Yes, that's basically what I'm looking to do, except I just wanted the necessary hardware to accomplish sliding upwards, whereas I believe Robern sells only their finished product (for several thousand dollars).

Joe Kieve
08-31-2012, 1:46 PM
Would something like this work? If so, check out hardware hut.com

http://www.thehardwarehut.com/images/moreimages/lidstays-lidhinges-lidsupports/hafeleamericaco/haf-373-71-thumb.jpg

Joe

Victor Robinson
08-31-2012, 2:07 PM
Would something like this work? If so, check out hardware hut.com

http://www.thehardwarehut.com/images/moreimages/lidstays-lidhinges-lidsupports/hafeleamericaco/haf-373-71-thumb.jpg

Joe

That's definitely the only option right now. As Jamie coined it, the "hatchback" method. Unfortunately the wife isn't a big fan, and is willing to forego the storage behind the mirror for the aesthetics she wants. But I know better. She will continuously lament the lack of storage forever, and what point is it to do a full bathroom remodel yourself if you can't solve your aesthetic AND design/storage issues?

George Gyulatyan
08-31-2012, 2:09 PM
So, I think you're looking for a high-tech solution like this:

http://www.zaber.com/products/product_group.php?group=T-LLS&name=Dovetail_Slide

or this:

http://www.zaber.com/products/product_group.php?group=T-LSR

Pricey though :o

George Gyulatyan
08-31-2012, 2:24 PM
A motorized rack and pinion would also work, although I haven't been able to find anything that would be readily useable in your application, so some fabrication/engineering might be needed.

240281

Victor Robinson
08-31-2012, 3:04 PM
So, I think you're looking for a high-tech solution like this:

http://www.zaber.com/products/product_group.php?group=T-LLS&name=Dovetail_Slide

or this:

http://www.zaber.com/products/product_group.php?group=T-LSR

Pricey though :o

That's pretty sweet, but yeah, obviously out of the budget! I don't need it to be motorized. Basically something like a drawer slide with a pull-in catch that can resist gravity. In the up position, the drawer slide (in its closed position) keeps the mirror held up against gravity, and in the down position, the slide is in full extension (ideally it would have a "soft-open" at the end of its extension). Or alternatively, since I don't think a "soft-open" exists, it could be flipped. In the up position, the slide is fully extended (would need a stop at full extension), and in the down position, it would soft-close.

But I don't think there are drawer slides like this...

Jamie Buxton
08-31-2012, 10:28 PM
Think about a double-hung window. The sashes slide up and down, just like you're trying to do with your mirror. The traditional design has pullies near the top of the frame. A rope or chain fastens to the sash, goes up over the pulley, and down to a counterbalance weight dangling inside the wall. A little friction in the frame holds the sash in either the up or down position.

Victor Robinson
09-01-2012, 2:45 AM
Think about a double-hung window. The sashes slide up and down, just like you're trying to do with your mirror. The traditional design has pullies near the top of the frame. A rope or chain fastens to the sash, goes up over the pulley, and down to a counterbalance weight dangling inside the wall. A little friction in the frame holds the sash in either the up or down position.

A counterweight in the wall cavity! Brilliant! I owe you a beer.