Walnut and Maple HF

[Mike Cruz]

This is my latest endeavor into hiding the seam... Just make it obvious! 4 1/2" x 4 1/2". Opening is 1/2"...like I really hollowed it throught that! :eek: :D

C&C welcome.

240106240107240108240109240110

[Michelle Rich]

there are so many "obvious-es" that it's not obvious anymore! neat shape & pretty wood!

[Tony De Masi]

So you've gone from trying to hide just one seam to creating several and make them obvious. Getting quite creative there Mr. Cruz.

[Jim Burr]

Nice inlay work!! Looks like you found the obvious perils with doing those. One of my fav's!

[Richard Jones]

So can you make it look like a U.S. map? :D

Seriously pretty..............

[Roger Chandler]

That R rat nice, Mike! Good finish and you need a more in depth explanation of your techniques and such......teasers.......who needs 'em? :rolleyes::D Seriously, this is a very nice piece......good stuff! :)

[Allan Ferguson]

Great eye appeal. Nice walnut. I definitely like this.

[Mike Cruz]

Thanks, all. I appreciate the kind words.

Roger, picture a 5" x 5" x 10" block of walnut. On one side, I drew two curved lines. I cut along one of them on the band saw. I then glue them back together with some maple veneer between them. Once dry, I cut along the second line, and glue it back together with a piece of maple veneer between them. Once dry, I rotate the block of wood 90* (or should I say that I flip it over one time...). I drew two more lines. I cut along one of them, then glue it back together with a piece of maple veneer between them. Then I cut along the fourth line. BUT HERE IS WHERE I DO SOMETHIHG DIFFERENT. I apply glue to one side of walnut, and one side of maple, then clamp them back together. Once the glue dries, the two halves can be taken apart. I leave them together, though. Put the whole thing between centers on the lathe, and rough turn the outside. I then take the two halves apart, and hollow them out like bowls. Once that is done, I glue them back together. Then I finish turn the outside. The trick is that when you are re-turning the outside, you have NO clue where the inside wall is. So, it is a bit of a guessing game... One of these days, I'll take pics the whole way through. This was a bit of an experiment. I think I'll be making another soon. I'll document it better...

[Roger Chandler]

Thanks, all. I appreciate the kind words.

Roger, picture a 5" x 5" x 10" block of walnut. On one side, I drew two curved lines. I cut along one of them on the band saw. I then glue them back together with some maple veneer between them. Once dry, I cut along the second line, and glue it back together with a piece of maple veneer between them. Once dry, I rotate the block of wood 90* (or should I say that I flip it over one time...). I drew two more lines. I cut along one of them, then glue it back together with a piece of maple veneer between them. Then I cut along the fourth line. BUT HERE IS WHERE I DO SOMETHIHG DIFFERENT. I apply glue to one side of walnut, and one side of maple, then clamp them back together. Once the glue dries, the two halves can be taken apart. I leave them together, though. Put the whole thing between centers on the lathe, and rough turn the outside. I then take the two halves apart, and hollow them out like bowls. Once that is done, I glue them back together. Then I finish turn the outside. The trick is that when you are re-turning the outside, you have NO clue where the inside wall is. So, it is a bit of a guessing game... One of these days, I'll take pics the whole way through. This was a bit of an experiment. I think I'll be making another soon. I'll document it better...

Thanks Mike...........your explanation followed pretty much what I had thought..........that is a nice piece, and your woodworking skills are shining.......brightly!

[Dennis Ford]

Interesting technique with a great result. Very nice HF.

[James Combs]

...The trick is that when you are re-turning the outside, you have NO clue where the inside wall is. So, it is a bit of a guessing game...

Mike I really like the HF, may have to give it a go myself. When you mentioned "The trick is" you got me to thinking. If you have one of the laser assisted hollowing rigs you might be able to rig it to use the laser in kind of... well let's call it reverse for lack of a better term. Instead of having a cutter on the end of the tool holder have some kind of long springy feeler that its tip is aligned with the laser spot. Think long piece of wire coat hanger as the only thing going through the 1/2hf opening. You could let the feeler ride inside the hollow form just touching the area inside that was opposite the location of your gouge outside. Being a spring or flimsy like a coat hanger it would not cut the inside wood but you would know when its tip touched wood. I am sure it would be a cut, check w/laser, cut, check w/laser situation but it might take some of the guesswork out of it.:) Just kind of thinking out loud(or it text as the case maybe).

[Mike Cruz]

Interesting approach, James. I've already been accused of going WAY out of the way to hollow out a form just to avoid getting hollowing tools. I think if I made a set up like that, I'd be in trouble with my local "you're going too far" police (turning buddies :D). But it sounds like it could work.

Roger, thanks. I would attribute being able to do this to my experience in woodworking prior to turning. I've always had to make due without the "right" tool. Keeps you on your toes!

[Kathy Marshall]

Beautiful piece Mike! Seams or not, that's a great looking form! Great looking piece of walnut and the contrast with the lines is just plain cool!

[Rick Markham]

Super cool piece Mike! Ain't nuffin wrong with doin things diffurnt. Sure is way more complex than just hollowing the thing, but the effect is spectacular! Keep up the good work. (See what happens when you put the chainsaw down for a few minutes :D)

[Bernie Weishapl]

Wow Mike I am disappointed. I thought wow he hollowed that beautiful HF thru that little hole.

Beautiful piece Mike. Love the form and the wood.