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Braden Todd
08-27-2012, 6:29 PM
I was wondering if anyone had any luck with rounding the edges of cut acrylic, and is it possible to mold or shape the cut outs?

I am trying to cut out yellow aspen leaves (thought about using 1/8" flourescent yellow from laserbits, or if anyone has a better option I am open to everything) and I would love to be able to find a way to round the cut edges and maybe even shape them so they look like a leaf and not just flat plastic. These are for my wedding and will be placed on tables and hung around the reception room if I can get them to look right. Is this possible, or is it possible but not easy? I have a glass kiln and I even thought of placing the leaves in there to try and round the edges that way, but I figured before I try that I should ask some of the pros here!

Thanks in advance for help!!

Scott Shepherd
08-27-2012, 8:07 PM
I'd try cutting it out, as you have done, then take the machine out of focus about 1/8" or maybe a little more, and then run it again, with less power. The concept it to get yourself a fat beam that has lower power, so it'll heat that cut edge and begin to melt it some. You might run it a couple of times. You might even put another cut line on the file, offsetting the shape one way or the other to make it all happen, but I suspect you can get something to happen. Worth playing with for sure.

Joe Pelonio
08-27-2012, 8:11 PM
I have done this for some items I manufactured using a router with roundover bit then flame polishing and it worked great.
Of course these parts were 10'x12", smaller would be hard to work with a router. For leaves where the rounded edge doesn't
have to be perfectly even, you might try a bench grinder with fine wheel. Just go easy with gentle pressure. I did that first and it worked but my item needed to be even all the way around.

Mike Null
08-28-2012, 6:53 AM
I think flame polishing is your answer, though it will be delicate. I would use MAPP gas.

Rodne Gold
08-28-2012, 10:39 AM
If you heat the acrylic up to 170 C for cast and 180c for extruded , the acrylic becomes rubbery and you can then make a mould of some sorts and press it into shape.

Braden Todd
08-28-2012, 2:34 PM
Thank you all for the advice!

If I am using a flame polish set up would I need to worry about toxic fumes and have to set up a ventilation system? When using the torch would I just get close to the edges to have them round over, and could I use the torch to heat the piece to flex/curl it like a real leaf? Also, what are good flame polishers to buy? I saw a posting about some at Lowes using the MAPP gas but then I also saw some from Norrie Industries and I am not sure which I should use.

I have one last question, is it possible to use my glass kiln to heat the cut out leaf to cause the edges to round or does it take an actual flame? My concern is time to do each one and I may try to do a few hundred.

Thanks again!

Mike Null
08-28-2012, 4:05 PM
Heat will do it but control may be an issue. Are you sure you want to do this?:eek:

Braden Todd
08-28-2012, 4:29 PM
Lol that's what my fiancé says about all my wedding ideas!

If I can get them to look right all efforts and tool purchases are worth it. I am also trying to get the reception area (The Stanley Hotel) to use me as a preferred vendor for this type of work so I want to really impress them and our family attending.

Dee Gallo
08-28-2012, 8:20 PM
I have used a regular toaster oven (yard sale model dedicated to this use). I used 270° for 6-7 min. to soften the acrylic and then wearing welding gloves, shaped the pieces as desired. I imagine you could just press the edges down around the outside and get the results you want. It stays pliable for a minute or so. Get some Reynold's Non-Stick foil to set it on and it is easy to remove after it comes out of the oven.

happy wedding! dee

ps- Radiant acrylic is multi-colored and would look great as you intend to use it

pps - you can make forms with the foil to shape the leaves too

Braden Todd
08-29-2012, 2:18 PM
Thanks for the tip Dee! I don't think I have ever seen the radiant acrylic, where would you suggest I buy from?

I really hope this turns out nice, my original idea was to learn torch work and blow the pieces out of glass but then I realized I had to work and not play!

Thanks again to everyone

Dee Gallo
08-29-2012, 8:48 PM
Braden, just google "radiant acrylic" and you will get there. It's beautiful stuff. Evonic is the name of the company. Here is a pic of simple desk name plates. The color changes as you move from side to side.

Rodne Gold
08-30-2012, 2:13 AM
I used a TON of the radiant , literally , we have a steak house chain here called "SPUR" , theirs is a red indian theme , like the "cherokee Spur" etc , we made 500 dream catchers of about 2ft in diameter and used radiant for the circle that supports the web that "catches" the dreams. They hung them in store , they actually approved the design out of store in strong light where the radiant looked wonderful , however their restaurants are fairly dimly lit and that actually negated the colour/pattern/ shifting of the radiant. As there was dim ambient lighting , it's reflective properties were non existant too....
We now use it to cut all sorts of shapes for necklaces and earrings etc for a guy that makes costume jewellery.
You will not get far with a flame polisher , rather stick the stuff in your oven and play with shaping once it gets to its rubbery/mouldable state , heat of the flame polisher is just too high as mike says.

Peter Jones
08-31-2012, 11:49 AM
Hi Dee,

I'll have to give the toaster oven approach a go, how precise does the temperature need to be? Does acrylic have a fairly wide "rubbery" thermal range?

Thanks

Dee Gallo
08-31-2012, 2:05 PM
Hi Dee,

I'll have to give the toaster oven approach a go, how precise does the temperature need to be? Does acrylic have a fairly wide "rubbery" thermal range?

Thanks


I'm no chemist, Peter, so I just did some experimenting and came up with those numbers. I'm sure there is an MSDS sheet which would tell you the exact info you seek. But if you just watch it through the glass, you'll see it slump and follow whatever form you lay it on... that should tell you what to write down as your reference. 270 is just a random low temp I chose to use and it worked. Also, each oven will be slightly different, especially a yard sale find... mine cost me $2 and was worth every penny!

Peter Jones
09-01-2012, 7:32 PM
Thanks for the tip, I'm thinking about building a reflow oven, and this might have bumped that project higher on the list :)

Michael Hunter
09-05-2012, 8:36 AM
The manufacturers of Perspex have a book which covers all aspects of processing acrylic including heat forming, cutting, drilling etc. etc.. - everything that you ever wanted to know.

I don't have a link, but I downloaded the book from the site of a UK Perspex distributor.

Watch out for extruded acrylic - it absorbs moisture from the air and this makes bubbles (an "interesting" effect!) when you heat it. The book tells you how to deal with this.