P&L 38 for floors ?

[Ralph Okonieski]

I've searched the finishing forum for good floor finishes. Waterlox, Bona Kemi, Street(something), Varathane and poly were all highly recommended. I've used P&L 38 for furniture products and have been very pleased with it but have never used it for a floor. Actually, I'd like to use it on hardwood steps. Anyone done that and willing to comment? The non-yellow color aspect is why I am considering it.

The steps are unfinished currently. The plan is to use a dye for the color, then a varnish for topcoats.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Alkyd and phenolic varnishes were used prior to poly for a good number of years.
They hold up fairly well.
Usually only the higher gloss versions were used since they are a hair tougher.

P&L only says "limited use on floors" on their website, but, they give no details. That leads me to believe they don't recommend anything but the high gloss finish for floors.
I only say that since that's the way it was 40 years ago when I used to sell an alkyd varnish...
The gloss was ok for floors,,,the satin wasn't recommended.

FWIW - a waterborne poly floor finish will also be clear and non yellowing.

I'm curious...where did you find the P&L #38 ?
(I live in Stow also)

[Ralph Okonieski]

The store is Sue Nelson Design on Water St in Kent. The place reminds me of an old-time hardware store, without the hardware.

I've used water based poly on other floors but did not feel it held up real well. I thought I would try something different.

Thanks for the suggestion, though.

[George Octon]

Did you use the two part? I think it has to be the two part for holding up. And a good one.

[Steve Meliza]

I did a test area on our red oak floors with three coats of Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish that my wife liked the color of, but she wanted a smooth film finish. So I applied two coats of Waterlox OMU (XL-88) and she really liked how it looked. The Waterlox OMU is soybean based so it is very clear and should stay that way. In the end we decided to call in a pro to sand and finish our floors so we're going to end up with a Swedish finish (Glitsa Gold) that should last many years. Unfortunately you probably can't find anywhere that will sell you a Swedish finish so I'd suggest a coat of Waterlox S/F followed by two coats of Waterlox OMU (if you want semigloss you can mix gloss and satin together). I had great success hot coating the Waterlox OMU (I did an adhesion test as proof) with about 7 hours between coats, but most of the flooring pros don't trust hot coating and prefer to sand between coats.

[Ralph Okonieski]

Good alternatives. Thanks !

[Jim Becker]

The P&L #38 is a wonderful varnish, but it's not designed to have the durability that most floor applications demand, as far as I know. This is the one place that I admit that a polyurethane is better suited, although Waterlox is also a tough non-poly finish that also works well for floor applications.