Happysad bowl

[Les Williams]

Happy 'cos i did it and sad 'cos it's not good.
Tear out & toolmarks - for some reason it would not get true? Cut the back, flipped it over re-trued the back as it had a bit of a ghost cut the front but it cut like it was 'off'................??????
Any ideas?
HOW LONG IS A PIECE OF STRING springs to mind??


Les

I always welcome criticism


239466239467239468

Shellac as a sealer, wet sanded with teak oil and waxed with liberon polishing wax.

[Jay Jolliffe]

I like the design...I'm just learning to turn & I had the same problem with a piece of Mahogany....I got tare out on the side like yours & I tried different tools, different angles couldn't get rid of it....So I also would like to know how to do it....

[Jerry Marcantel]

The first lathe I had did that also. I always had tearout for no apparent reason. It took me over 25 years to discover what the problem was, and I should have seen it the first time I used it.
It was the drive pulley. It had a 5/8" ID and the motor had a 1/2" OD arbor. The 5/8 steel adapter was not correct, and I only discoverd it when the motor came to a stop about 3 years ago. I stopped using it, and got another lathe, and also finally replaced the pulley. It works fine now....... ... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Les Williams]

The first lathe I had did that also. I always had tearout for no apparent reason.

Cheers Jerry, I hope it's nothing like that. I have turned in greenwood without the same problem and turned a small spinny top 2" tall 1 and 1/4" across - pointy finial - spins true, would have thought that would be a bit hard if the lathe was "off"?

[Eric Gourieux]

Les,
tearout on the end grain is common. Using sharp tools and small, shallow cuts is the key. And sometimes a lot of sanding. As far as the lathe not running true, I won't be of any help. Good luck.

[Thomas Canfield]

The recess photo is a little blurred, and the detail does not look sharp. What type of chuck are you using and how close to minimum diameter are you? The grain of the wood looks like there could be some soft/hard grain issue that would allow the jaws to seat more in the soft. Using thin CA to harden the grain prior to making the final cut for the recess and again before using the chuck might give you a better seat.

The tear out looks like you need a sharper tool and/or higher speed to get the better cut. The tear out is also in an area where you are making a change in direction of your curve and could be that your tool presentation needs to change.

[Les Williams]

Les,
tearout on the end grain is common. Using sharp tools and small, shallow cuts is the key. And sometimes a lot of sanding. As far as the lathe not running true, I won't be of any help. Good luck.

Shallow cuts sounds about right as i was a bit agresive at first


The recess photo is a little blurred, and the detail does not look sharp. What type of chuck are you using and how close to minimum diameter are you? The grain of the wood looks like there could be some soft/hard grain issue that would allow the jaws to seat more in the soft. Using thin CA to harden the grain prior to making the final cut for the recess and again before using the chuck might give you a better seat.

The tear out looks like you need a sharper tool and/or higher speed to get the better cut. The tear out is also in an area where you are making a change in direction of your curve and could be that your tool presentation needs to change.

I have a sorby patriot with 2" jaw and the recess is 2.5" and 1/4" deep (i thought it was deeper). As for tool positioning - practice? i know i need that.

Cheers folks

[William Bachtel]

Join a Woodturners Club. Best thing you could ever do.