Screws and adhesive for plywood cabinet

[Stephen Cherry]

I'm planning on putting together some 3/4 ply cabinet carcasses. Does anyone have any recommendations on adhesive and screws? Normally, I would use something like titebond, but I'm wondering if something like polyurethane construction adhesive would be better?

Thanks
Steve

[earl wojciechowski]

Stephen,
I use titebond and have not had a problem. Not sure that construction adhesive is really needed. As far as screws, I use a #8, 1.25 inches long. I like the square drive screws, as they do not slip when screwing into the wood. I also always drill a pilot hole.

Good luck.

Earl

[Jeff Duncan]

I use regular Titebond unless there's a finish on the cabinet....in which case I go with melamine glue. I switched to Spax screws a couple years ago and there's no looking back. You can drive a #6 x 2" long screw right in no pre-drilling:D

good luck,
JeffD

[jim gossage]

Biscuits are also a good choice for plywood if you can clamp the carcass.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I prefinish all my parts for boxes while it's in 4 X 8 sheets. I use Varathane Diamond Floor finish (water base), applying it either by spraying, or with their lambs wool pad applicator. Then before assembly, I sand finish off area to be glued. For screws, I use Wurth's assembly screws, along with Titebond II. I base my system on Danny Proulx's book, "Build Your Own Kitchen Cabinets."

[Jim Becker]

I build with Titebond III and square drive screws from McFeeley's. #8 screws for 3/4" material and #7 trim-head SS deep threaded screws for the 1/2" material I use the most.

[Larry Frank]

I built a bunch of cabinets (top and bottoms along a 16 foot wall) and used pocket screws on the 3/4" plywood. I edged the fronts with hardwood and put a dado along the back edge for the backs. These were euro style cabinets with no face frame. One thing that is nice when making that many cabinets is that you can make them all exactly the same size.

One of the hardest parts was making all of the shelf holes which were not only for shelves but spaced exactly for the full extension drawer slides and euro hinges. I made a jig and used a plunge router.


Like others, I finished the parts before I put them together. If I had enough space, I would have just done it in the full sheets but using 12 sheets there was no place to put them all. I did two coats of poly using a roller and sanded in between and then one final with a foam style brush. I

[Stephen Cherry]

Thanks everyone for the tips-- titebond, upgraded screws, and PREFINISH.

This morning I bought a new cordless drill, and for a few bucks more I got a set with an impact driver, even though I thought it was just a gimmick. Anyway, that thing drives screws like there is no tomorow, a semi eureka moment.

[John Schumer]

I use prefinished 3/4" maple ply, eliminates a step, I also use Spax screws

[jim gossage]

I prefinish all my parts for boxes while it's in 4 X 8 sheets. I use Varathane Diamond Floor finish (water base), applying it either by spraying, or with their lambs wool pad applicator. Then before assembly, I sand finish off area to be glued.

Great idea on the pre-finish. Seems like sanding off the finish for the glue areas might be tedious - any tips to speed it up? Also, if you apply a hardwood edge to the front of the plywood case, at what point do you finish the edging?

[Greg Portland]

Great idea on the pre-finish. Seems like sanding off the finish for the glue areas might be tedious - any tips to speed it up? Also, if you apply a hardwood edge to the front of the plywood case, at what point do you finish the edging?
I prefinish but trim the finish off with a dado blade making a rabbet joint. The depth I trim at is minimal (maybe 1/32" or so). I use a Domino to attach the face frame so I pre-finish the edging as well (no wax in the glue regions). I use Tightbond for the Domino area (holes & tenon) and silicon caulk adhesive for the rest. The caulk is not there for strength; it's just for gap filling & works fine if the trim overlaps the carcass edges. If the trim is flush to the carcass & visible then I follow a more traditional route (all wood glue + Dominos and finish after trim is on).

[Larry Frank]

A caution about the impact driver. I only use mine for deck screws and putting 2x4 for a frame. If you use it for case construction, you will likely split the wood or strip out the hole. They are great for a lot of things but not so great for casework.

[Peter Quinn]

I use titebond III pretty much exclusively to keep things simple, I use 1 1/2" Deerfield ultimates for assembly.

[Carl Beckett]

I use titebond III pretty much exclusively to keep things simple, I use 1 1/2" Deerfield ultimates for assembly.

Peter - Can you give more info on 'Deerfield ultimates'. A google search isnt finding them.

[Peter Quinn]

Peter - Can you give more info on 'Deerfield ultimates'. A google search isnt finding them.


try wwhardware.com, thats where I've been buying them, best price on medium sized quantities I could find.


http://www.wwhardware.com/deerwood-square-drive-flat-head-screw-8-scs8x/

Oh, just noticed its DEERWOOD, sorry Ive been spelling this wrong!

[zayd alle]

A caution about the impact driver. I only use mine for deck screws and putting 2x4 for a frame. If you use it for case construction, you will likely split the wood or strip out the hole. They are great for a lot of things but not so great for casework.

My experience has been different. A light trigger finger makes it work well in case construction. I just assembled 20 cases and would have hated using a drill/driver.

[Larry Prem]

I use tilebond and regular gold coarse thread wood screws.
The result is plenty strong.

Pre-drill all holes to avoid splitting.

[Jerry Cummins]

My experience has been different. A light trigger finger makes it work well in case construction. I just assembled 20 cases and would have hated using a drill/driver.

Although I'm not a cabinet maker....I agree. Since I bought this Dewalt combo...the drill I've used about 1/10 of the time compared to the impact driver. And, put an adapter to handle 1/4 inch sockets.....I'd be lost without it. Probably the most used tool I have bought in a long time.

[Kenneth Speed]

I'd say that Titebond II is perfectly fine for kitchen cabinets. Titebond III is very waterproof but is overkill for kitchen cabinets in my opinion.

I'm not a huge advocate of screws in cabinet construction if one has the time not to use them but sometimes that isn't the case and I have screwed and glued cabinets together on occasion.

If I were using a lot of screws on a project I'd definitely use a square drive Robinson head screw. After using square drive screws you'll throw rocks at Phillips head screws.


Ken

[johnny means]

I'm sure I'll be tarred and feathered for s suggesting this on this forum. Gluing cabinet carcasses together is wasteful and messy. Butt joints with screws will produce a sturdy enough cabinet for any kitchen, bath, or other built-ins. I've removed plenty of 20+ year old casework from homes, schools, banks, stores, etc that were stapled and screwed together. I've also replaced all these with similarly built case good.

Point is, it really isn't an overly critical decision how you build a cabinet carcass. They really are not subjected to the types of stresses that chairs and tables are.

[Curt Harms]

A caution about the impact driver. I only use mine for deck screws and putting 2x4 for a frame. If you use it for case construction, you will likely split the wood or strip out the hole. They are great for a lot of things but not so great for casework.

IMO this is one place where bigger is not necessarily better. I have 2 impact drivers 10.8/12 volt & 18 volt, both parts of kits. For smaller screws I find the smaller impact driver easy to control. For bigger screws the 18 volt will bury a 3 1/2" screw in a heartbeat.

[Jim Matthews]

+1 on McFeely's for lots of choices.

If the head is out of sight, a larger washer keeps it from pulling through at the proper depth.
In practice, I wonder if that matters... if the carcasses are clamped together and the screws just keep things aligned while the glue dries, it may not matter so much.

Will the assemblies be allowed to cure, or will they be hung immediately?
That would steer me in choosing a washer head or something less expensive.

[Greg Portland]

IMO this is one place where bigger is not necessarily better. I have 2 impact drivers 10.8/12 volt & 18 volt, both parts of kits. For smaller screws I find the smaller impact driver easy to control. For bigger screws the 18 volt will bury a 3 1/2" screw in a heartbeat.
Doesn't everyone's impact driver have a strength setting? I can dial mine into light/medium/hard impact settings. The light setting is perfect for small screws (cabinet HW, etc.). I agree that the physically smaller impact driver is great for tight spaces.

[Jeff Duncan]

No many impacts do not have different settings. Doesn't matter though, you just develop a feel for how to use it like anything else.;) I don't use the impact for everything, but once you get used to using one casework goes quite a bit faster with one.

JeffD

[Carl Beckett]

Some of my drills do not have variable speed triggers. My impact does - I find this to be helpful.

I also dont like the noise of the impact. It seems excessively loud and like I should be wearing hearing protection if using. A clutch would be nice (my smaller variable speed drill/driver has a clutch).

[Jim Becker]

I'd say that Titebond II is perfectly fine for kitchen cabinets. Titebond III is very waterproof but is overkill for kitchen cabinets in my opinion.

I don't prefer to keep multiple types of glue around, so I just use Titebond III for everything. I also prefer the slightly darker color.

[Lee Schierer]

I had good luck with the Kreg pocket hole jig and Kreg 1-1/4" screws and Elmers yellow woodworking glue. Just be sure on the "end grain" to apply a heavier than usual amount of glue as the plys will suck it right up.