Face Frames to Cabinets

[Mark J Bachler]

In a recent post we discussed building the casework carcass. How about attaching face frames to the cabinets? Biscuits & pocket screws or biscuits & clamps? Too many pocket screws a good thing? I suppose they'd be fine as long as you miss the spots where the drawer slides & hinges hit.

[Jim Becker]

Mark, I use a few biscuits for alignment on this operation...the only place I used them, as a matter of fact! They keep the frame where it needs to be on the carcase while you clamp it up and let the glue "do its thing".

[Mark J Bachler]

Mark, I use a few biscuits for alignment on this operation...the only place I used them, as a matter of fact! They keep the frame where it needs to be on the carcase while you clamp it up and let the glue "do its thing".

That's the way I do it also. I was just thinking last night how much faster it would be with pocket screws, but I'm not crazy about those unsightly holes, & plugging them is kind of a pain.

[Bob Reda]

I use tongue and groove, glue them up and put a clamp or two on them.

[Jim Becker]

That's the way I do it also. I was just thinking last night how much faster it would be with pocket screws, but I'm not crazy about those unsightly holes, & plugging them is kind of a pain.

I love building the face frames with the pocket screws, but like you, prefer the look of attaching them (along with the alignment properties) that using biscuits for that. That said, on cabinets that will get decorative panels, pocket screws on the outside of the basic carcass would also be really easy and quick. cabinets that will be filled with drawers (such as Mark Singer's recent office project) are also no problem using the pocket holes on the inside since you'll never see them. I haven't tried that yet, but will soon be building a tool cabinet for under my Adjust-A-Bench to replace the simple stretchers and plan on trying that method out just for grins!

[Steven Herbin]

You may want to check out Marc Sommerfeld's site and get one of his DVDs. He uses a tongue and groove method with a limited use of pocket screws in places they won't show.

I am just getting into it and have built a few cabinets (previously pictured) and it really gives a nicely aligned and strong cabinet.

Marc really knows his stuff.

[Lee Schierer]

I use rabbets to attach face frames to cabinets. They give a stronger joint and also help with the alignment. As a bonus, if the outside corner shows, you can cut the rabbet a bit wider than the side panel and sand the overhang off flush to make a perfect fit everytime.

If the outside of the cabinet isn't seen, put your pocket holes on teh out side and then you don't see the holes, nor do they need to be filled.

[Fred LeBail]

I use a dadoo in the face frame and a rabbet on the side panel. I also set the dadoo so there is a reveal on the side so it can be sanded flush.

[Steve Clardy]

I glue, clamp in place, brad nail from the inside of the box, plywood, into the back side of the face frame. Remove clamps immediately. Move on to the next one. You need a 18 ga. brad gun that has a depth drive stop though, which most do nowadays.

[jack duren]

glue and clamps are all you need......jack

[Chris Mann]

i find that for most cabinet work pocket screws work fine. The only place I use biscuits is on the bottom of upper cabinets. Otherwise the pocket screws are either hidden by adjacent cabinets or covered by a decorative end panel.

[Corey Hallagan]

For you guys that build alot of cabs, is there a standard size on the rails and stiles? My current kitchen cabinets have 1 1/2 rails and stiles. A book I bought says 1 1/2 on the rails and the stiles 1" which seems incredibly small on the stiles.

Corey

[jack duren]

are we talking about doors or carcass frames Corey?....jack

[Corey Hallagan]

JAck, the carass frames is what I was referring to but while we are at it, is there a standard when it comes to door rail and stiles as well?
Thanks,
Corey

[Alan Tolchinsky]

glue and clamps are all you need......jack
Jack, You sure you have enough clamps on those cabinets? :) One question. Could you explain your process of building the large cabinet at the front? What pieces went first etc. Thanks and what's it for? Alan

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Most face frames are made from 1.5" wide stock and most door stile and rails from 2.25" wide stock. That said, we adjust ours to fit the need and scale of the project. The last ones Lamar cut for our cabinet reface project were 2" wide rails and stiles.

[Corey Hallagan]

Thanks Guys for the info!

Corey

[Michael McCoy]

I had a similar question Jack. I may have the scale wrong but my curiousity got aroused. Are those pieces part of an intertainment center or something?

[Steve Clardy]

JAck, the carass frames is what I was referring to but while we are at it, is there a standard when it comes to door rail and stiles as well?
Thanks,
Corey

Door rail and stiles. 2 1/2"
Face frame. 1 1/2" rails. 1 1/2 to 2 1/2. Just depends there.