Hollows and Rounds - anybody made a set?

[Todd Burch]

I've been drooling over a set of Hollows and Rounds for a long time. The makers are out there - but the sets a fairly expensive - I'm certain because they are a lot of work to make.

Has anyone made a set for themselves?

Would the DVD Classic PlaneMaking by Tod Herrli really tell me how to make them myself?

Todd

[Ryan Baker]

Herrli's DVD is good. Larry Williams' DVD is even better. I'd say get both. And get Larry's DVD on sharpening profiled tools too.

I was going to make a set, then I found a set for (what I consider) a great deal. Making a full set (or a half set) is a lot of work. In time and materials, you will have a hard time saving money over picking up a set on the used market. However, if you just want to build them yourself then go for it. It's not particularly hard to do ... just time consuming. Finding suitably-sized, quarter-sawn, dry wood to start with is the hardest part. The irons, again, are time consuming but not too hard to make. You can also buy tapered iron blanks from Lie-Nielsen. You don't really need a whole half-set anyway. You might just start with a few sizes and add to them over time.

I'm going to make some new snipes-bills when I get around to it (maybe some rebates too). I have some now, but they aren't the greatest. The more special planes are hard to find, so they are good ones to build.

[John McPhail]

Todd, I have three pairs of my half-set done, after making four planes for practice and a rabbet plane. I can be a bit of slow learner sometimes... I have the Todd Herrli video as well as the Larry Williams video, and they are both insightful. There are several steps that the videos really helped explain.

The only power tool I am using in my process is a bench grinder. In between everything else ( other projects, a day job, sore feet, etc. ) I am able to make a pair in about a week. The most time-consuming part for me is probably making the irons.

I wouldn't call making the planes hard, but exacting instead. A few things didn't become clear to me until I'd done them a few times, but all in all it's doable.

I have bit of advice if you get into it using only hand tools -

- the Lie-Nielsen floats and the 1/10" mortise chisel make life a lot easier
- buy your steel flat stock in pieces as wide as the length of your irons
- use a quality high-tension hacksaw
- don't skimp on files, good hand files with well-fitting handles are worth it.

Well, there's my 2 cents, hopefully more experienced folks will chime in.

[David Weaver]

I have made a few pairs. John's advice sounds pretty good to me. I have only the Larry Williams video, but it is pretty much impossible to watch the video and not make good planes if you follow the steps.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I have Larry's video - it definitely makes me feel like it is an accomplishable task - tempering/heat treating the irons seems a bit daunting for me as I don't really know what I'd do it - no real space for that sort of task here. Maybe my father's driveway. Either way, been thinking about making a rabbet plane sometime this winter.

Larry's video on sharpening profiled edge tools is really keen, as well, and well worth the money, in my opinion. Got my fillester plane working quite well after watching that one.

I know I should shoot to use quartersaw stock for these planes - still keeping an eye out for suitable stock, but haven't come across any. Is it a total waste of time to use well seasoned flat or rift sawn stock for a plane? Got some chunks just kicking around with nothing better to do. I figure if nothing else, it's practice. . .

[paul cottingham]

I have a small set, 4 pairs, to be exact, and thought I would buy the rest of the half set later. To be frank, they seem to meet my needs just fine. I think the new book on moldings argues that you dont need a ton of them either. I also have three beaders as well. Making them, well that is a whole different set of issues, but I don't think you need very many.

[Jim Matthews]

As mentioned before, you'll get a feel for the process by refitting a missing iron in an existing plane.

Larry Williams recommneds the British planes for better fit and finish, if you're looking.
As an aside, I attended a class run by Matt Bickford (http://www.msbickford.com/)on the use of hollows and rounds.
He echoed the notion that a few pairs will allow you to make most any shape, and I agree.

He's easily approachable and willing to help. He genuinely knows his stuff, and knows how hard making these can be.
I highly recommend taking a class using hollows and rounds before purchasing any, so you can have an informed opinion.

A two day class will help you choose planes that work for you and help you either find or build them.
I decided against the half set order I was prepared to place (I even had a check in my pocket) - they're just not for me.


I found the class tremendously informative and the planes more than a little finicky in use. I found myself wishing that the larger sweeps had stops built in.
If you're building period furniture, these have utility. In my experience, they're very expensive and limited in application.

In the sense that I didn't lay out long money for planes I don't use, I thought the class to be a bargain.

[george wilson]

On hollows and rounds,which are never really used much,or very often,I think any hard wood with any grain pattern would outlast you. So,have at it!! I'd agree that buying old ones is cheaper,unless you just like the challenge.

[Norb Schmidt]

Most have already covered what you need. I'd recommend just buying the irons from Lie-Nielsen like others suggested. The main difference between the Williams Method and the Herrli method comes down to two things: 1) gluing up the bodies (Herrli) - Williams and antique models are all typically one piece, and 2) shaping the profile. I personally follow William's DVD and instruction.

There is many tricks learned in making a side escapement plan - they are festidious and require a significant attention to detail. Small removals of wood will make a remarkable change in the plane's performance, etc. What I'm saying is that if you aren't predisposed to "fetteling" something with a magnifying glass (like a watchmaker), than this exercise is going to be frustrating. Lastly, it will NOT wow you friends and neighbors when you show them: "hey look, I just spent the last week of my life working on these two pieces of wood!" This is highboy like attention to detail, with none of the glory.

Another tip for the makers out there is to follow Matthew Bickford's Blog. He shows a less frustrating way of mortising the plane for the wedge using extra long drills. Both Williams and Bickford are remarkably accessible if you find yourself struggling - reach out.

Quarter Sawn AMERICAN Beech is tough to find in normal places. Try Horizon - they do it, relucantly - but get good quality. The stuff is notoriously difficult to dry effectively (checks like crazy).

Best of luck,
Norb

[Trevor Walsh]

I'm in progress on a traditionally made quarter set, and I've got a v-plane build that needs an iron fit, they are on my blog. I would recommend quartesawn stock, and the right tools, I might even suggest buying a set of irons for the first pair so that you don't have that to worry about. I use Larry's DVDs and they are really great, and after reading what Larry has to say about grain orientation and lamination I think it's best to use the traditional methods.