Sharpening advice

[Dick Holt]

I am new to turning. I recently purchased a new mini-lathe. I am in the process of buying a few chisels, books, accessories/supplies etc. I have a Worksharp 3000 which I use to sharpen bench chisels and plane irons. I also have an old (but well made) Craftsman 6" grinder which spins at about 3500 rpm. It does not have aluminum oxide wheels. I could probably buy a new 8" low speed grinder for not much more than it would cost to replace the wheels with aluminum oxide. Also, I just got an email from Grizzly saying their 8" wet grinder is on sale for $82. What would you recommed I do? Do I use the Worksharp, buy new wheels for my old grinder, buy a new grinder or buy the Grizzly wet grinder? If I were to buy a new grinder (not the wet grinder) or new wheels for the old grinder, should I get a Wolverine jig? When will I be able to stop spending money on turning? Thanks for your help.

Dick

[Scott Hackler]

I would lean towards the slow speed grinder from WoodCraft. It comes with a 180 grit aluminum oxide wheel and a heavier grit one. Woodcraft has them on sale several times a year as well. Your current grinder spins too fast (too much heat) and replacing the wheels vs new slow speed grinder is close in price. A wet system like the Grizzly or a Tormek do a great job IF you have the jig attachments for them AND a lot of time if you are reshaping. They provide a great edge but are a slower option.

Of course with your current or the slow speed, you should look into a Wolverine shapening jig. It allows for repeatable results. Once set up it's a no brainer.

A lot of turners are switching from from the AO wheels and going to the CBN wheels. They are expensive ($200ish) but ne heat, to dressing of the wheel and they provide a "honed like" edge. I don't have one of them myself, but it is on my short list for sure!

[Mike Cruz]

I don't think I could have said any of that better, Scott...

Just to second it, though: The general consensus is that slow speed grinders are better (not that you can't use a high speed grinder, some do); You DEFINITELY want to get the Wolverine Jig; I'll be getting a CBN wheel or two soon enough...

[Joe Bradshaw]

Dick, Scott and Mike gave good advice. A slow speed grinder and the Wolverine system is the way to go. As far as your question about when you will stop spending money. The answer is never. Woodturners are attracted by shiny objects and are always just one tool away from excellence. There is a reason it is called the vortex.

[Prashun Patel]

"just one tool away from excellence"

Oooh, I think I see a new signature line in my future...

[bob svoboda]

As one who started with the Worksharp, progressed to a Jet Wet Grinder, then to a slow speed 8" grinder with AO wheels along with the Wolverine system, and finally (I hope) to the CBN wheels, I could have saved a lot of time and money if I had had Scott's advice to begin with. As to the money thing, I think it's too late for you:D

[Andrew Kertesz]

They have come out with attachments for the Worksharp to sharpen lathe tools. I have both a slow speed grinder and Jet slow speed wet grinder. One thing nobody mentioned is honing your tools. Most tools you want to remove the burr once you are done sharpening, except for your scrapers. Become proficient with a hand held hone and you won't have to sharpen as often.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

When will I be able to stop spending money on turning?

Dick

As mentioned, never. Sell your lathe now and quit when you're behind.....:D

Welcome and enjoy the journey. This group will help you spend money like it is theirs.

[Scott Hackler]

Common guys, I didn't want to "scare him off" so soon! :)

Honing is a personal preference (real honing for a micro bevel, that is). I don't concider polishing the inside of the flute with some 400 grit, actual honing....but I do that every time anyway.

My sharpening process is slow speed grinder on the 180 AO wheel, with the Wolverine system, roll up some 400 wet dry sandpaper and run it down the flute to remove the "flakes" (and sometimes across the edge to get them all) and I immediately grab my 600 grit diamond stone and hone a very slight micro bevel across the cutting edges. Doesn't take all that long (now) but I like my gouges to be razor sharp. I can re hone with the diamond stone at least 5-6 times before I feel the "need" to freshen it up on the grinder.

One of the reasons I am looking at a CBN wheel is the reports of a near honed edge, straight off the wheel. That would be a great time saver for me.....if it was as sharp and clean an edge as I like.

[Jon Prouty]

Common guys, I didn't want to "scare him off" so soon! :)

Honing is a personal preference (real honing for a micro bevel, that is). I don't concider polishing the inside of the flute with some 400 grit, actual honing....but I do that every time anyway.

My sharpening process is slow speed grinder on the 180 AO wheel, with the Wolverine system, roll up some 400 wet dry sandpaper and run it down the flute to remove the "flakes" (and sometimes across the edge to get them all) and I immediately grab my 600 grit diamond stone and hone a very slight micro bevel across the cutting edges. Doesn't take all that long (now) but I like my gouges to be razor sharp. I can re hone with the diamond stone at least 5-6 times before I feel the "need" to freshen it up on the grinder.

One of the reasons I am looking at a CBN wheel is the reports of a near honed edge, straight off the wheel. That would be a great time saver for me.....if it was as sharp and clean an edge as I like.

Hi Scott,
Not wanting to hijack the thread topic, but it sounds like your expectations of a near honed edge straight off the CBN wheel are a bit off in my experience. I liked the edge off my woodcraft slow speed grinder AO wheel and my edge off the 180 CBN wheel is comparable - I still get those "flakes" on the inside of the flute but they are slightly smaller. Before jumping all the way to the CBN wheel for that near honed edge, I would suggest giving one a test spin. Don't want your experience to be unsatisfactory...

Hi Dick,
A lot of good advice already given... As far as the money thing, if you are like any of the rest of us you will not be able to resist that next shiny item. With every order placed, I think "okay, that should just about do it for now" and before the package arrives, I already have more items in the que to buy. It is a very viscous cycle. I am convinced that the way to make money in this turning thing is to make and sell tools or accessories. :)

Cheers!
Jon

[Reed Gray]

As some one above said, there are attachments that will go on the Work Sharp for your turning tools. I prefer the CBN wheels. Best tool, and best value/bang for the buck. They stay round, they don't need to be cleaned, no aluminum oxide dust from cleaning, they are spin balanced, there is no risk of them ever blowing up, they are 1 1/2 inches wide With the exception of the Cuttermaster wheel (see add in American Woodturner) which is 1 inch wide, and they probably will live longer than most of us. You do not get a honed edge with them. The 180 wheel cuts like a 100 to 120 grit AlO wheel, and the edge does look more polished, but there still is a burr, which I think you will get from any grinding wheel. If you try one, you will never go back to standard wheels.

I free hand/platform sharpen. Really simple, and you never have to use a jig.

robo hippy

[Dick Holt]

Scott,
Do you have the Woodcraft grinder? FWW did a test report on grinders recently and said the Woodcraft had a lot of vibration in it, even after balancing the wheels. Did you find this to be true?

Dick

[Tim Rinehart]

Dick, speaking for myself, I have a WC grinder and haven't had any issues with it in over 3 years of use. I have heard/read alot of stuff from folks with issues that were often a result of cheap plastic bushings (which can be exchanged out for about 10 bucks or so from tool houses) and good truing techniques beyond just using a dressing bar. Don Geiger is a regular here and has a very nice setup for dressing wheels on the Wolverine rests. I suppose the balancing of them could be an issue, but if I had a new grinder, with new wheels and dressed it and it still didn't seem smooth...I'd be talking to the folks at WC while under warranty.

[Scott Hackler]

Yes I have a WoodCraft slow speed grinder and the grinder has worked great. The 180 AO wheel has never run true on the sides (kinda wobbles) but was always true on the face, so I didn't worry about it.

[Rich Aldrich]

"just one tool away from excellence"

This is what I always tell my wife.... she now sees I will never achieve excellence. Yeah, the vortex suck the money out of your wallet....

[Dick Holt]

Thanks for all your responses. Since I am sharpening challenged (freehand anyway) I think I will look into a new WC grinder and the Wolverine jig. By the way, I retired last year and if I spend anymore money, my wife is going to tell me to go back to work (LOL). Thanks again for your help guys.

Dick

[Scott Hackler]

Dick, don't forget that if you can be patient... WoodCraft places both of those items on sale a couple times each year. That's how I bought mine. Save all you can....for more turning tools!

[Jamie Donaldson]

The AO wheels on the WC grinder are 60 and 120 grit, and some of the WC grinders do have a wobble problen right out of the box. This can usually be adjusted by rotating and retightening the wheels on the shaft, the flanges are stamp cut rather than machined as on more expensive grinders. A well tuned WC grinder is by far the best buy for the money spent, and will last the lifetime of most hobby turners.