Highland Hardware bandsaw-tensioner

[Anthony Diodati]

I didn't know weather to reply to an old thread,

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?124463-Iturra-quot-Spinner-3-quot-bandsaw-tensioner (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?124463-Iturra-quot-Spinner-3-quot-bandsaw-tensioner)

Was reading this thread, so is the tensioner from Highland still holding up OK? Is it nice a stable or does it seem wobbly?
I was thinking of ordering one.
Is that the Acme Thread?
Iturra sells just the Rod and Nut (Acme) for $37.00 with shipping, or the whole thing for $62.00 shipped,
And Highlands is $54.00 shipped.

Mine is a 1965 Delta, and I can't stand the low tension knob.
Or was thinking of getting the Iturra Rod and Nut, and try to put the OEM facet knob onto the acme thread rod.
Not crazy about the Iturra Acme threaded knob being threaded it's entire length.

Here is Iturra's latest PDF if you don't have it. (2010) http://idvwdesign.blogspot.com/2012/05/download-iturra-designs-2010-catalog.html

Thanks, Tony

[James Heisbert]

People here are crazy over Iturra products.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I've gotten a few upgrade items from lturra - very good operation, very good products.

Having said that - I've had this tensioning crank on my Delta C-frame for 4 - 5 years. Works fine. Am sure the Iturra one works great also.

http://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-14330-Tension-Crank/dp/B001C4UOVS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1344892214&sr=8-7&keywords=bandsaw+tensioning

[Anthony Diodati]

Yeah, I looked at the one at Amazon too.
Then there is this company on line, you can get 3 feet of Acme thread, and 3 Acme Nuts for about $30.00 shipped. But they only have Hex Acme nuts, am waiting for a reply about square acme nuts,
I'm fooling around with a screw from a C clamp, (3/8X16 not acme) I might get a piece of 3/8" rod welded to that, and turn it down even, did up some kind of crank somewhere. One of the old Delta ball cranks would look good I think.
The thing nice with this is I could put the ball swivel back on the bottom of the screw part, and that would swivel on the bandsaws casting.
Again, like the Idea of the Highland Hardware one, as it is not threaded all the way up. (Just for looks, won't matter in how it works. )

A Delta crank Like this, but they always go pretty high.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Go for it.

You're overdriving my headlights.........I got a straight-forward, low-end item that works well, but ain't in the star-cruiser class you are looking for. :D :D

[Dell Littlefield]

If you buy the Highland Hardware one, be sure you use the nut that came with it. I didn't and eventually stripped the threads on the shaft. I have a Ridgid bandsaw so that may be different than your Delta but forewarned is forearmed.

[Anthony Diodati]

OK, The Highland Hardware one in Acme Thread, Right?

speaking of Ridgid bandsaw, I just put a tension spring on the delta from a Ridgid bandsaw.

[James Heisbert]

Can I see pictures of the tension spring?

[Anthony Diodati]

239195Here is the one from e bay,( Where I got it)
If you need better ones, let me know.
The total length was 2 7/8", and looked to be the same thickness as my old delta one.
The Old delta spring had compressed down to 2 1/4" -2 3/8".

[James Heisbert]

What do you mean better ones? How much did you get those from ebay?

[Anthony Diodati]

Oh, sorry, I meant better picture, I paid about $5.00 with shipping, it looked almost new.
I only got the one spring,
Sorry for the confusion.
Tony

[Phil Thien]

McMaster sells square acme nuts. And threaded rod.

[Anthony Diodati]

McMaster sells square acme nuts. And threaded rod.

Thanks, that "Metal by The Foot "company I think was the name of it, they never got back to me. I'll check out mcMaster, I'll bet by the time I pay mc master, and with shipping, I'll be up to the Iturra price.

[Anthony Diodati]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3169/=ivpda1
The site is down, found this PDF, cant find the rod yet, but these square nuts are nice sounding, they are brass. 3/8" X 12 3/4" square, by 3/8" thick.
What is there shipping like?

[Anthony Diodati]

The acme thread, 3/8" X 12 TPI Brass nut is Only $5.50, (Edit, 5.94 each) and they have "Plain Steel" acme thread, 3/8" X 12 TPI is only $5.00 for a 3 foot piece,
Do you think the "plain Steel is strong enough?
Depending on how the shipping is, I might go with this.


Edit
So 3 foot plain steel, $5.00, and 2 Acme nuts, $11.88, = $16.88,
But I can't find a shipping estimate. Guessing around $11.00

[James Heisbert]

It’s not a problem buddy. A better picture isn’t necessary. As far as I can tell, based on the picture you uploaded, it’s a good looking spring. I just hope it doesn’t compress down quickly. BTW, how many years of service did your Old delta spring gave you before it compressed down?

[Anthony Diodati]

It’s not a problem buddy. A better picture isn’t necessary. As far as I can tell, based on the picture you uploaded, it’s a good looking spring. I just hope it doesn’t compress down quickly. BTW, how many years of service did your Old delta spring gave you before it compressed down?

hard to tell, the bandsaw is a 1965, but I got it used about 8 years ago, and it sat all this time, didn't have a shop for a few years, shop was a pile of s%$t in the middle of the floor for a few years, finely this year I got the old B/S up and running. so this is the 1st time I am really running it. Turned out pretty smooth and all though.
If you wanted to you can read about it at OWWM
http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=111871&sid=afb30793d6df4f0e5a622e4bc8a6ff2a

Thanks,
Tony
PS
just got the e mail back from Mc Master Carr on the shipping, asked if it was cheaper to ship to a business?

"Shipping would be about $5. It’s the same price whether we ship to a residential or business address. "



You can't beat that,thanks for the tip, BTY, but do you all think plain Steel rod is hard enough for this application?

[Anthony Diodati]

Well, I went ahead and ordered the Brass nuts, and the "Plain Steel Acme Rod" was reading at a bandsaw mill group where the fellow stated that plain steel would be plenty strong enough. So we shall find out. Now to dig up or fashion some sort of hand-wheel.
Funny thing about the site, it never did show the shipping after the order was placed. Just said applicable shipping will be added. Hope it's only around $5.00 as quoted.
Thanks,
Tony

[Anthony Diodati]

Boy, that McMaster Carr is Awesome. Ordered Friday night, but they said it wouldn't ship till Monday, got home today, was here already!
Those Brass Acme nuts are nice. Had to file down the OD just a bit to fit the Bandsaw, but they are nice and beefy too. Probably about 3/8" thick.
I got the acme rod cut to length, and am working on a hand wheel.I am going to try to cobble up the hand wheel from this faceplate I had laying around from a 109.21270 craftsman lathe. I have a 1/2" X 20 tpi plug threaded up into the faceplate and am waiting for the locktite to cure, and have it indicated up in the lathe, and will attempt to drill/bore it out to a press fit, and freeze the acme thread overnight, and hopefully be able to tap the wheel/faceplate down on to the acme rod, and let it cool.
I will all depend on how perfect I can get the size of the hole, if I fudge it, I can always drill/tap for a set screw.
Then I have a handle that will fit into a hole I drill in towards the outside of the faceplate.
The Handle looks like this, and the face plate looks like this.

[Myk Rian]

People here are crazy over Iturra products.

Not everyone.
If you know how to properly setup a band saw, you don't need any of that stuff.

[Anthony Diodati]

The Rod is in the freezer for about a half hour, here is the wheel part. Looks pretty good I think.

EDIT
Here she is done, came out pretty good I think.

[Cliff Polubinsky]

Because of the additional nuts Grizzly uses on their adjustment screw, I wasn't able to find an aftermarket option that worked. So I built a handle with a mortise to fit the knob and a cap to fasten it down.

239628239629239630

Cliff

[Anthony Diodati]

Looks real good, it's back to the drawing board for me, Mine looks wonderful, but in use,it's got too much flex in it.


Because of the additional nuts Grizzly uses on their adjustment screw, I wasn't able to find an aftermarket option that worked. So I built a handle with a mortise to fit the knob and a cap to fasten it down.

239628239629239630

Cliff

[Jay Maiers]

Looks real good, it's back to the drawing board for me, Mine looks wonderful, but in use,it's got too much flex in it.
Is the threaded rod flexing, or is there slop elsewhere in the system?
Perhaps the addition of a bracket and bushing near the top edge of the housing would help? I hate suggesting that for a vintage saw, but it is an option if you're not a purist and don't mind the modification.

[Stew Hagerty]

Looks real good, it's back to the drawing board for me, Mine looks wonderful, but in use,it's got too much flex in it.

I don't have an old classic, but rather a 2 year old Grizzly G0555X. I upgraded it with a set of Carter Micro-Adjust Guides, Quick-Release, and their Accuright Ratchet-Rod. I simply can not say enough great things about each and every one of their products. The Ratchet-Rod is so easy to use and, with their Quick-Release, blade changes are a snap.

Completely detensioned w/ratchet knob.
239743
Mid tensioned for preliminary setup w/ratchet knob.
239742
Full tension w/ 3/8" ratchet in place of knob.
239740

[Anthony Diodati]

Is the threaded rod flexing, or is there slop elsewhere in the system?
Perhaps the addition of a bracket and bushing near the top edge of the housing would help? I hate suggesting that for a vintage saw, but it is an option if you're not a purist and don't mind the modification.

the threaded rod was flexing, and there is I think a wee bit of slop where the threaded rod passes through the hole in the top of the sliding bracket. I had one of the taller adjustment rods off a newer delta in there, (Not an Acme thread) and there was no flex. It is a harder steel, and a closer fit where the un-threaded portion of the rod passes through the sliding bracket.
I did make a beefed up version last night, This version is a lot better, but not perfect either.
I used a 1/2" diameter steel rod, and drilled/bored it out for a press fit for a section of the 3/8" acme thread rod, but the part that passes through the sliding bracket is still threaded, as of course the 1/2" rod was too big to pass through the sliding bracket. Unless I machine about an 1/2" long area on the 1/2" rod right above the threaded area, to a closer fit in the sliding bracket's hole.
But I really don't know if that "play" is adding to the problem or not. As shown, I also added the base swivel part off a broken C clamp I had laying around.

Yes Jay, I had thought of the addition of a bracket and bushing near the top, I sort of do hate to drill holes in the top cover.
Of course, I guess If I was that much of a purist, I would leave the OEM rod and knob on it.
Another thing I thought would look pretty cool, and look mostly "period correct" would be to get one of the tall delta tension rods from delta, and fit the old "faucet knob" to the tall rod. Again, they are not acme thread, but I think if you keep the stock one's lubed, you will be OK.
Here's some pictures of it.


I don't have an old classic, but rather a 2 year old Grizzly G0555X. I upgraded it with a set of Carter Micro-Adjust Guides, Quick-Release, and their Accuright Ratchet-Rod. I simply can not say enough great things about each and every one of their products. The Ratchet-Rod is so easy to use and, with their Quick-Release, blade changes are a snap.


Stew, is the Carter Accuright Ratchet-Rod a acme thread?

What about the guys that have the Highland hardware crank assembly, or the Inturra crank assembly?
Do you have any of this flex issue?

[Jay Maiers]

Yes Jay, I had thought of the addition of a bracket and bushing near the top, I sort of do hate to drill holes in the top cover.
Of course, I guess If I was that much of a purist, I would leave the OEM rod and knob on it.
Another thing I thought would look pretty cool, and look mostly "period correct" would be to get one of the tall delta tension rods from delta, and fit the old "faucet knob" to the tall rod. Again, they are not acme thread, but I think if you keep the stock one's lubed, you will be OK.
Here's some pictures of it.

If a bracket will do the trick, how about using adhesive instead of drilling? Something like the 3M strips for the wall hooks? A thin piece of sheet metal, shaped and painted to blend in with the top surface of the rear cover might work.

The OEM tall rod could be the better choice, but you'd be back to twisting it instead of winding it with the speed knob (if that makes any sense at all).

[Anthony Diodati]

If a bracket will do the trick, how about using adhesive instead of drilling? Something like the 3M strips for the wall hooks? A thin piece of sheet metal, shaped and painted to blend in with the top surface of the rear cover might work.

Yeah, thats a possibility, using the 3M strips for the wall hooks, I was even thinking like a pillow block made of wood.
I did find my square Acme nut was looser in the square part of the sliding bracket than it needed to be, They were too big to start, and I got carried away sanding it down.
I used another new one, and was careful to fit it , but now I ran into another issue, my shrink/press fit threaded rod pulled out of the 1/2" rod, so I am going to see if the welder at work can put a real fine weld on it, or I will try to pin it with a 1/16" roll pin.
If not, it's going in the scrap bin, and I'll go with the tall OEM Delta one. It really was not that bad to twist.
Like I said, some guys had problems with the OEM ones galling up, but I think if you keep it lubed, You'll be OK.


The OEM tall rod could be the better choice, but you'd be back to twisting it instead of winding it with the speed knob (if that makes any sense at all).
Yes, makes perfect sense.

[Stew Hagerty]

Stew, is the Carter Accuright Ratchet-Rod a acme thread?

Yes it is Acme thread, 3/8".

239827239828

[Anthony Diodati]

Yes it is Acme thread, 3/8".



OK, Thanks, I might think about the carter too then, if this one don't work out.
Tell me, looks like it's threaded the whole length, is this correct?

Got sort of sick today, so didn't go to work, but he (The Welder) thought I could pin it OK, of if not, he could weld it OK too.
Don't have a good way to center the rod to drill it for the roll pin, anyone know where I could get what the call a crotch center, with a # 2 MT for my tailstock.
It's like a Vee Block you put in your tailstock, here's a picture.
Couldn't find it at McMaster or Enco.

[Stew Hagerty]

OK, Thanks, I might think about the carter too then, if this one don't work out.
Tell me, looks like it's threaded the whole length, is this correct?

Yes, well all except a bit at the top where it flares out so it can accept the 3/8" square drive. On the other end it comes to a soft point so that ti will fit in the optional detensioner. If you don't want or can't use the point, I suppose you could always grind it down flat. It is very rigid and, since it has the Acme threads, it turns so smooth and easy.

BTW... Hope you feel better.

[Anthony Diodati]

BTW... Hope you feel better. Thanks Stew


Well I was able to pin it, made up a "V" block out of wood, and centered a hole the best I could all the way through the "V", and took a cup center you would use in the tailstock of a wood lathe, and hammered it into the back of the block. Used that like the crotch center shown above.
Actually turned out pretty straight. Drilled it out to 3/32" for a roll pin.
Don't know if I showed where I used the swivel foot from a broken C clamp I had laying around, It's shown (again?) below also.
These pictures suck, but you can get the Idea.
There is still a little side to side rocking, but that is from the sliding bracket, there is slop there between the sliding bracket and the Bandsaw casting. Not much can be done about that, but all in all, it's pretty good. Less play in the OD of the Acme nut helped a lot too.
Thanks,
Tony

[Anthony Diodati]

I've gotten a few upgrade items from lturra - very good operation, very good products.

Having said that - I've had this tensioning crank on my Delta C-frame for 4 - 5 years. Works fine. Am sure the Iturra one works great also.

http://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-14330-Tension-Crank/dp/B001C4UOVS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1344892214&sr=8-7&keywords=bandsaw+tensioning

Yeah, I got this one too, for my wood metal bandsaw. Don't have a blade on the wood metal one yet, need to get a blade for aluminum, But the "Big Horn" seems like a pretty well made product. Ended up getting it from Amazon for a Total of $13.49 with shipping, That was a pretty good price.
Company was called "Amazing Warehouse Deals" but it looks like there out of them now.

[Anthony Diodati]

Well, here is the latest "hand-wheel"
Picked this up for a dollar at the flea market.
Since the picture I have cut about an inch off the top of the tension rod, and installed a shorter set screw.
This works really well. 6 cranks off, and 6 cranks on, and I am ready to saw.
Think it came off an old meat grinder.