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Chris Griggs
08-12-2012, 5:39 PM
As some of the folks around here already know this past month I relocated to Philadelphia after spending the past 4 years in New Orleans. New Orleans has no basements, so this is the first time I've had a dedicated basement workspace to setup shop. In the past few weeks I've gotten unpacked enough to start working on some projects, and I decided a good way to break in the new turf would be to make some new shop appliances.


First up, (the one I'm most excited about) is my new sloped shooting board. It great! Way better than the previous shooting board I was using, seen sitting on the left in the first photo.


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The board slopes at about 5 degrees, which is enough to spread out the wear on the blade but not so much that wide boards sit beyond the capacity of the blade. The fence is made from two pieces of laminated red oak. I cut two rabbets on the underside of the fence to create a a tongue that fits snugly into a 9/16" by 1/4" deep dado.


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The tongue's fit is very tight so that there is no play. No fasteners or glue hold the fence in place. The joint is tight enough that the reference face stays square against the planing forces. However, even though it won't move out of square the force of shooting can pop it up and out of the dado, so I've been using a holdfast to keep it down in use. The nice part about having no fasteners is that at any given moment I can adjust the fence so that it comes right up to the blades edge and fully supports the wood fibers on the exit of the cut. I had originally planned to add an adjustable sacrificial fence like on Derek's shooting board to serve this purpose but adjusting the whole fence is working so well i'm not going to bother.

I may add a single screw or wingnut at some point to hold it in place, but for now I'm perfectly happy just to use a holdfast.
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The secondnew tool/appliance is a saw bench I literally nailed together this morning.

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It very simple design with nothing but some notches and nails to hold it together but its rock solid and only took me 4 hours to build. One thing I did wrong with it though was put the legs a little too far in so the bench can tilt up if you kneel to far to one end while cross cutting. I deliberately built it with the legs 7" in from either end to give me a longer support are when using the ripping gap, but if it proves to be too tippy I may cut a couple inches of each end. Its 32" long so even if I cut of 4" total it will still be plenty long enough.


Of course the best part of the new saw bench is that it looks like my workbench had a baby!!!
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Now its on to making a couple simple BORG pine bookcases which I've been told that I need to get done quickly or risk having to purchase Ikea bookcases instead.

Peter Pedisich
08-12-2012, 5:43 PM
great stuff Chris, thanks for sharing.
Like your bench, too!

Trevor Walsh
08-12-2012, 6:03 PM
Sweet. Soon it will be time to get together with that QS white pine.

Jessica Pierce-LaRose
08-12-2012, 7:16 PM
Chris - did you make the wedges for the angled shooting board by hand or by power? If the former, curious how you did it. I'm curious of the best way to make those accurately.

Chris Griggs
08-12-2012, 8:01 PM
Thank Peter and Trevor. Looking forward to the get together Trevor. Don't forget the homebrew... you promised me homebrew!


Chris - did you make the wedges for the angled shooting board by hand or by power? If the former, curious how you did it. I'm curious of the best way to make those accurately.

Josh, I had planned on doing the wedges by power but I ended up doing it by hand. The first thing I did, was plane a 5 degree bevel on the front underside of the piece of plywood that the wedges fit under. Planing plywood isn't all that fun but it worked. I wasn't super precise about the exact angle, I just made sure that it was flat and even. I then glued and screwed the bevel down to the other piece of plywood so that the tail end of the platform elevated up at the same angle as the bevel I had planed. Then I fit the wedges to the existing angle. Basically I marked the angle on the edges from the work piece, sawed to the line and the planed the wedges until they fit under the angled platform. Finally I screwed and glued the the angled platform down to the wedges. The key to fitting the wedges properly is to cut them too long. That way you can plane the angle to fit without having to worry about the wedge getting too short and too narrow (since extra length on an angled piece also equates to extra width). Also, save the pieces you cut the wedges from as they serve as holder for when you plane the wedges to fit.

Mark Dorman
08-12-2012, 8:08 PM
Congrats on the new shop Chris. I have had a basement shop for about 2 1/2 years and love the dedicated space.
My saw bench has a rip gap as well and I found I really like it.

Trevor Walsh
08-12-2012, 9:53 PM
You could also build a long grain like shooting board with a batten fixed at the angle desired, then place the stock against the stops and plane the edge. I have a jig somewhat like this for tripping wedges for molding planes I make.

Archie England
08-13-2012, 7:36 AM
Congrats on getting your shop back into action. I like the sloped shooting board--and loved your solution for cutting that T&G. A right angle 1 x 6 might be enough on each end to stop that tipping. Great job, Chris!

Jake Rothermel
08-13-2012, 9:09 AM
Sweet little shop space, Chris. Congratulations. I love (and miss) Philly. Watch the flood potential in some of those old stone basements!

Christopher Charles
08-13-2012, 3:41 PM
Another congrats on the new shop, Chris. I'm still working on getting mine up to speed after moving a year ago.. Also, thanks for letting us know that an angled board is worth the effort.

Cheers,
Chris

Chris Griggs
08-13-2012, 7:33 PM
Jake, good input. I've actually been keeping an eye out down there when it rains. One corner of the basement has gotten a little damp during the bigger rain falls we've had since I've been here, but no substantial amount of water has come in. Anyway, at this point I've gotten most my tools (certainly all my nicest users) out of boxes, off the floor and on shelves. My bigger concern is the concrete floor. Its only a matter of time until a favorite tool bites it. I think I'm going to need to invest in some mats.

Arch! Sorry you can't come by and visit the shop so easily anymore. Of course you know your always welcome s.if you ever get up here.

Thanks again for you comments folks. I pretty psyched to be back to building stuff again.

Trevor Walsh
08-13-2012, 8:44 PM
You could always T&G some wood flooring under the bench area if it stays pretty dry, or build a mini sub floor with 2x4 and cover that with ply and T&G. Only problem with that is philly basements tend to me tight enough in the head to begin with.

Chris Griggs
08-14-2012, 6:06 AM
You could always T&G some wood flooring under the bench area if it stays pretty dry, or build a mini sub floor with 2x4 and cover that with ply and T&G. Only problem with that is philly basements tend to me tight enough in the head to begin with.

The headroom would definitely become an issue with a raised floor. I thought about just laying down some T&G boards as you suggest, but I"m renting so I'm reluctant to put too much time and money into it....of course the cost of mats adds up pretty quickly too. Perhaps I will brain storm the wood flooring idea some more.