powermatic 90 spindle repair/replacement

[Lee Alkureishi]

Hi all,

I had a friend help me troubleshoot the remaining noise/vibration on my pm90 refurb today. As feared, the slop on the outboard side is due to wear on the spindle - about 8/1000".

So the next step will be either repair or replacement if the spindle.I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this type of thing, and/or could offer any advice on the best way to approach it / approximate costs involved?

If having a new spindle made is a reasonable option I'd love to have more standard threads - what would be the best option for inboard and outboard?

Meantime, I plan to contact PM to see if they still carry the replacement part - though I'm guessing it would be expensive!

Thanks in advance,

Lee

[Jerry Marcantel]

Lee, .008" slop isn't good,but it's not really that bad either. I don't have the number of a particular Loctite product used to take out the slop in sloppy bearing pockets, so I'm sure if you go to Loctite amd look at all their products, you should find the one that might cure your spindle problem...It was used on one of my routers once to set the sloppy bearing when it was discovered that there was slop. I wore out the router the bearing gave out, so it worked in my case. ........ Jerry (in Tucson)

[Lee Alkureishi]

Hi Jerry,

Thanks for the tip. I looked at the picture stuff (660), but it looks like it actually cures and books the 2 pieces together. My Reeves pulley, has to slide on the shaft, so I don't think it'll work.

But, I may have found another solution: timken has a product called"redi-seal" which is a sleeve for damaged/worn shafts. I wonder if this could be used between the spindle and the pulley?

Will call them tomorrow :)

[Roy Turbett]

Lee - I agree that .008 isn't too bad. You won't be able to find a new spindle through Powermatic. The best place I found for used parts is at OWWM.org. There is a forum called "BOYD" where members can buy and sell parts. Just last week another member located a PM 90 spindle within a day by placing a WTB ad. I have the original spindle from my 1955 Powermatic 90 that is in good shape and it even has a new inboard spindle bearing on it. The only thing wrong with it is that it is a first generation spindle and is 3/4" shorter on the outboard side because Powermatic didn't add a locking collar until the following year. The spindle should work fine with a locking collar and outboard faceplate but the outboard faceplate won't have the full number of threads holding it on which could be a problem if you plan to do any outboard turning. The spindle lock collar is also first generation in that it lacks the keyway found on later models. Take a look at the Powermatic 90 Time Study thread at OWWM and you can see the differences. You can have it for $50 plus shipping.

[Greg McClurg]

Lee, I just got a head spindle off of OWWM site last week. I had 3 people willing to sell one so you shouldn't have much of a problem.

Greg

[Mike Cruz]

Lee, if you can, I would get a PM spindle. If not, and you get one made, I'd get it made exactly the same. The only downfall to the original spindle is that the outboard threads are odd and do slightly hold you back accessory wise. There really isn't much that you "can't get" to fit the inboard size. If you have no runout on your spindle (the new one), you can always put a 1 1/2" to whatever adapter on it so that you could use other accessories if you really want to. I would think the last thing you would want (for resale purposes) is to raise a red flag by having someone see that the threads aren't what they are "supposed" to be...

[Lee Alkureishi]

thanks for the advice - looks like getting a PM spindle will be the way to go.

Roy, thanks so much for the offer. I've sent you a PM.

Cheers,

Lee

[Steve Schwartz]

I found this old thread and hoping you can help.

I have a powermatic 90 and can't get the spindle out of the headstock. The fixed half of the Reeves variable speed sheave is frozen or I am missing something. I have removed the split locking nut and removed the set screw. The manual instructions indicate that it should come loose with a little pressure from a screw driver between the fixed and moveable halves. I have tried BP Blaster and heat. I can remove the front bearing by driving the spindle out toward the tailstock but only until the fixed sheave hits the housing. I also locked the spindle and tightened a wooden handscrew clamp to the sheave and tried to hammer it to rotate but all I did was beat up the clamp with no indication of movement.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Steve Schwartz

[Lee Alkureishi]

hi steve,

most likely there is a burr on the spindle from the set screw. you need to firmly drive the fixed half TOWARD the headstock (the opposite direction to how it will come off), which will expose the burr. Then, carefully file off the burr, and the fixed sheave should slide off easily.

The screwdriver should only be used gently between the moveable sheave and the headstock, if the gap isn't big enough to get a finger in.

Hope this helps,

Lee

[Steve Schwartz]

Lee,

I was pleasantly surprised when after all my previous efforts your suggestion worked perfectly. I can't thank you enough.

Now I have the spindle loose and will try to remove the bearing assembly that is keeping the spindle from leaving the housing. My original problem was that the sliding spindle mechanism was freezing up. I hope to clean that up and change all bearings as long as it's apart.

Steve

[Lee Alkureishi]

Glad to help. Good luck with the rehab :)

Lee

[Steve Schwartz]

Lee,

I've got the spindle apart and ready to reassemble but have one last question for you, I hope. When I removed the spindle a small "O Ring" made of wire (like a spring) fell out. I don't know where it would belong. The ring is about 1" dia and 1/6" thick. It is damaged and I wanted to know if this is something I can do without?

Thanks,

Steve Schwartz

[Mike Cruz]

IIRC, that, oddly enough, was inside the grease seal. You'll need to replace it...sorry. And while you are at it, order 3 of them (not just one) because inevitably, you will either put it back together in the wrong order, forget a part, or once put back together need to take it back apart to do something DAMHIKT. They are quite inexpensive (don't get them from PM, they'll gouge you!). Read my thread(s) on what I did and I believe I mention where I got mine. The new ones will look a little different, but will work perfectly.

[Steve Schwartz]

Mike,

I am new to Sawmill and can't figure out how to find your thread concerning the grease seal.

Thanks,

Steve

[Mike Cruz]

Steve, if you click on my name, that will take you to my page. Once there, you can search through threads I've started by clicking on Recent Threads Started. Then you can scroll through there to look at my threads. In there is this one http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?159704-PM-90-restoration-complete!&highlight= about the completion of the lathe. Here are some more http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?153109-My-PM90-Good-news-bad-news&highlight= , http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?152160-It-s-Aliiiiiiiiiiiiive!!!!!!!!!!!&highlight= , http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?151248-I-followed-your-advice!&highlight= , http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?151249-Going-to-an-auction-with-a-fellow-Creeker&highlight= .

These are all on page six, btw... And there may have been more threads that I started about the PM90, not sure. They are, however, in reverse order, so if you care to read through them all, I'd start with the last one I posted above. And, honestly, I have no idea where the info regarding the seals is...sorry. Good luck!

[Bill Summerlin]

Roy, do you have a source for replacement bearings for a 1966 powermatic 90?

[Bill Summerlin]

Where did you get your bearings?

[Steve Schwartz]

Roy, do you have a source for replacement bearings for a 1966 powermatic 90?

Sorry but all I did was disassemble and clean. The original bearings are still in the machine. You can call Powermatic/Jet parts department. 800 274-6846.

Good Luck