Foam for cabinet door panel spacers

[Victor Robinson]

I recently reused some foam spacers salvaged from some panel cabinet doors I didn't need. The doors were made by a cabinet shop.

I liked the 1"x1/4" spacers more than space balls and want to make some of my own. I know I could use just about any foam, but want something similar to the squishy foam those spacers were made of. Any suggestions on raw material and where to get it? Thanks!

[James Conrad]

Try Backer Rod, available at any home center or local hardware store.

[Peter Quinn]

http://www.amazon.com/CMT-PNL-002-Raised-Panel-Spacers/dp/B000P4NQ4S We use something like these, but bought from a commercial supplier in a bulk case. I like them better than space balls for cabinet doors.


Here is another source, smaller minimum quantities, same product. http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=156-248&LARGEVIEW=ON

[Victor Robinson]

Thanks James and Peter. Doesn't look like HD has a 1/4" backer rod - that'd be perfect.

The Panalign spacers look good...seem pricey but I suppose a bag of 500 will be all I will need for the immediate future.

EDIT: Just realized Peter also linked 100pc bags...cool!

[David Kumm]

I run 5/8" deep grooves and 1/4 OD plastic tubing and cut it in short lengths. Allows expansion but stiff enough to keep panels centered and pretty cheap. Dave

[Mel Fulks]

I notice many paneled jobs today have a big flat (3/8 or more) showing adjacent to the moulding.It is a modern thing that I think might have been caused by "spaceballs".Standard practice around here was to size the panels 1/8"under the 'bottom of dado' measurement. We adjusted shaper fence so that when the panels were installed the mould completely covered all of the flat edge and actually also covered 1/32" of the raise.No open crack whatsoever was allowed and the work had the traditional look.Once in a while we had to tap a panel into exact position with a block and hammer.I think there is not much chance of the old look coming back. But I still like it!

[scott vroom]

We use Panel Buddies

http://www.panelbuddies.com/index.html

[Victor Robinson]

We use Panel Buddies

http://www.panelbuddies.com/index.html

Just ordered some of those from Peter's second link...pretty sure that's what I pulled out of the doors.

[Peter Quinn]

I notice many paneled jobs today have a big flat (3/8 or more) showing adjacent to the moulding.It is a modern thing that I think might have been caused by "spaceballs".Standard practice around here was to size the panels 1/8"under the 'bottom of dado' measurement. We adjusted shaper fence so that when the panels were installed the mould completely covered all of the flat edge and actually also covered 1/32" of the raise.No open crack whatsoever was allowed and the work had the traditional look.Once in a while we had to tap a panel into exact position with a block and hammer.I think there is not much chance of the old look coming back. But I still like it!


Thats a good point Mel. I've seen some doors I would refer to as hack with huge flats, just not quite right. We figure the 1/4" spacers need 1/16" compression and run the panel calculations as groove bottom to groove bottom minus 3/8", then set the fence to leave 1/16" flat showing on each side next to the molded edge. I never cared for the old shaker thing with the angled pert of the panel going into the groove though. What happens when the panel expands? It starts stressing the molding as it tries to wedge its way into the groove? Its not really a floating panel at the point if you have a 15 degree bevel on each side. So I'm in the small but important flat camp. I guess it could grow if the doors are made in the summer, then I might make them even tighter figuring they will shrink.

[Mel Fulks]

Yeah it does seem that way.But since the panels had an easy slip fit until they slid up the "ramp" ,when they did expand they never broke the sticking or developed any bulge. The worst thing I ever saw happen was on a large indoor panelling job in 38,000 square foot house. The panels were fairly wide and got a faux finish on site done by "others" with no on site acclimation .They shrank about 1/16 after the finishing ,showing a bright white pine line on one edge (two edges on some of them) . It was decided by the homeowners that the lines could not be just solid colored in.The lines had to be faux finished.This was not paid for by my boss ,and I reminded him I had suggested WARNING! WARNING! mdf panels.Two more quick points .Back then they used real painters who would always" dry brush" around panel edges . Today they lay it on thick all over.On things like fir doors or anything 2 1/4 inches we never ran the panels the same day the stiles and rails were" stuck".They had found that the moulding would collapse inward a little overnight making the panel grooves a little small.When we did run them we checked the fit in a number of door parts,not just one.And we set up with pcs.at least as long as the longest panels.Not short pieces.