Plywood or MDF?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I am starting a new project. This week I began ordering high pressure laminate and hardware to build Norms Deluxe Router table with some minor modifications of my own design.

He and others have used MDF for the table top. Is there really a significant advantage to using MDF over a good grade of plywood for the router table top?

[Jerry Miner]

cheaper and flatter

[Peter Kelly]

As above, MDF is much flatter than plywood.

[Jamie Buxton]

Bare MDF is floppier than bare plywood. However, if you're going to laminate it both sides with formica, the floppiness difference is neglible.

A different drawback of MDF is that it doesn't hold screws well. Dunno if that's an issue with your design. Covering it with MDF doesn't help in this regard.

[Keith Hankins]

I am starting a new project. This week I began ordering high pressure laminate and hardware to build Norms Deluxe Router table with some minor modifications of my own design.

He and others have used MDF for the table top. Is there really a significant advantage to using MDF over a good grade of plywood for the router table top?

My table is going on 8 + years now and its still flat as can be. I too built Norms plans with a few changes. I made my top a bit bigger and used two 3/4 pieces of mdf wrapped in oak topped with formica. I added heavy duty casters to mine which elevated it about 4" but that's not an issue for me I like it being higher. I have the Incra LS fence and the woodpecker PRL and the PC7518 as my power plant. It has literally handled everything I've done without a grunt. You will like it. Don't know if ply will work as I did not use, but the MDF will stay flat and the way the base supports it, it won't sag. Good luck.

http://flic.kr/p/96WU78

[Alan Lightstone]

Keith. Love the front of your router table. What's it made of?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Thanks Keith! Nicely done!

The PC 7518 motor is what I plan on hanging off my Woodpecker PRL-V2.

[Larry Browning]

Ken,
Have you seen this guy's website? He has a slightly modified version of Norm's plan. Along with detailed drawings and pictures. It really helped me when I built mine.
BTW: I made my table from 2 thickness of 3/4 MDF. Very flat and heavy. I bought the woodpecker plate template, which made it fit perfectly. I glued small strips of laminate to the mounting ledge which gave a hard stable surface for the leveling screws of the plate.

http://www.crestonwood.com/router.php

(http://www.crestonwood.com/router.php)

[Jim Andrew]

The last router table I built, just used solid lumber, making sure it was dry, and then put finish on all edges and both surfaces. The finish is wearing on the top, but works as well as the older table with the laminate surface.

[Mel Fulks]

I have a router table I made from white melamine board (mcp ?) 20 years ago.It is not covered with laminate and has not worn through .It does have holes drilled in it and some other slight damage since it's been used in a commercial shop and frequently been borrowed. I like laminate but will not use contact cement on a project for me. Plastic resin (UF) is more work but much more permanent. A good convenience feature is a dedicated router base,sometimes you can even get them free from a discarded broken machine.

[Alan Bienlein]

I used mdf for the top of mine and just waxed it.

On a side note the drawers for the router bits I did differently as I didn't like the amount of space taken up by the additional pieces to act as the slides. I cut some pieces of 1/2" baltic birch ply about an inch wide and ran a 1/4" dado down the center. The pullout for the bits is another piece of 1/2" ply with holes for the bits drilled all the way thru. I then cut a piece of 1/4" ply that was about 1/2" wider and stapled it to the bottom.
238925238926238927

[Andrew Joiner]

MDF sags under it's own weight. Plywood can move up or down. Both will work for a nearly flat top if you support it. I make router table tops with a slight crown to them.

[Alan Lightstone]

Thanks Keith! Nicely done!

The PC 7518 motor is what I plan on hanging off my Woodpecker PRL-V2.

That's the combo I have, Ken. Works great. It's a beast.

[Bill Huber]

I started out with drawers somewhat like Norm's table and then didn't make them on one side, use that for the wrenches and things like that. Then I decided I wanted more drawer space but I didn't like the small drawers so the way my table was built I was able to add a big drawer under it and have found that I really like the big drawer. I can see all my bits at one time and have all the space I need. I use the small side drawers for inserts and other accessories. I have to have the underside of the table open for the router table vac.

My table has a Phenolic top and is supported with 3/4" ply on each side of the plate and on the ends.

I put my Leevalley steel straight edge across the top of the boards and shimmed them all flat before I mounted the top.
I think Norm's table is nice but I also thing you can change it to fit your needs, the basic design it good.

238938 238945

[Tom Clark FL]

Support your top and it will stay flat. This one is 25 years old.

[Roy Turbett]

I built Norm's router table using doubled glued and screwed 3/4" particleboard with a formica top and an oak edge about 8 years ago and its still good as new with no signs of sagging. Last week I built a "Mr. Sawdust" table for a radial arm saw using doubled MDF with two pieces of 1/8" x 1/2" steel reinforcement. It came out perfectly flat. Last night I built another "Mr. Sawdust" table for another radial arm saw using doubled 3/4" oak plywood. As soon as I cut the dados for the steel reinforcement the plywood was no longer flat and I couldn't get it flat using glue, cawls and clamps. I'm going to try doubled countertop grade particleboard with steel reinforcement next.

[Gregory King]

Ken, enjoy the build, the MDF will be perfectly flat as opposed to some plywoods. Truthfully, if I used anything other than the MDF to build mine, it would have been the MDO sign plywood. We use it a lot at work, and with good results. One last word of advice for MDF, make sure all exposed faces and edges are sealed to prevent moisture from entering. I had the bottom face of mine sprayed with lacquer to seal it. Have fun, Greg

[Brad Schmid]

Ken,
Are you coming to Houston in the near future? If you are, I'll give you one virtually identical to the one Keith picture above. Oversized (24x36 if memory serves) double layer MDF glued & screwed, edge banded 3/4" oak, laminated top and bottom (white). Cut for a Woodpeckers plate/standard size plate. It's taking up space in my shop. It's your's if you want to travel ;)
Cheers

Edit: PS. I just noticed you have a Woodpecker PRL... I bet it will drop right in :)

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Brad,

I appreciate the generous offer!

Last week I purchased all the materials including the special ordered HPL so I will build my own.

Thanks again!

[Chris Tsutsui]

I chose MDF for my router table because it's flat, stable and MDF is heavier than most plywoods. More mass typically means less vibrations.

[Carl Beckett]

I use MDF on the router top, and also my tablesaw outfeed (takes a LOT of abuse) and also a number of fixtures (hey, I got a bunch of it for free).

Coated it with shellac. Am very pleased with how it holds up. Just dont like the dust.....

[Jim Becker]

For a top like that, I'd always opt for the MDF...flat, dense, smooth and a great substrate for the laminate.