Magnetic shims and dado blades

[Scott T Smith]

Every time I use shims with my Freud 10" dado set (1" arbor) it seems as if one or more of the shims gets caught up in the threads on the mandrel, causing the dado set to run out of true. Even if I center the shim closely on the blade, they still get caught. It is a real pain.

Is there something that I'm doing wrong in setting these up?

Arghh!

Scott

[Larry Edgerton]

Scott

My MiniMax has a sleave with inside threads, nice setup, but on my PM66 there is a short section on the arbor that does not have any threads, and the stabilizer under the nut is dished out to make up for this on the blade side. This allows shims to be put on just after the inside blade is installed and before the first chipper, without falling in the slot of the threads.

If the saw you are using does not have this short threadless spot it would not be too hard to make one by filing 1/4" of threads next to the arbor stop and dishing out your outside stabilizer. I had the same problem until I figured this out.

Larry

[Gary Kman]

Glue......

[Scott T Smith]

Scott

My MiniMax has a sleave with inside threads, nice setup, but on my PM66 there is a short section on the arbor that does not have any threads, and the stabilizer under the nut is dished out to make up for this on the blade side. This allows shims to be put on just after the inside blade is installed and before the first chipper, without falling in the slot of the threads.

If the saw you are using does not have this short threadless spot it would not be too hard to make one by filing 1/4" of threads next to the arbor stop and dishing out your outside stabilizer. I had the same problem until I figured this out.

Larry

Larry, thanks much for the advice. I might be able to modify the arbor and spacers to allow this to occur. I wish that the arbor was about 1" longer though; when I have a 3/4" dado blade installed the nut barely catches onto a couple of thread. Consequently, I don't use the 3/4" dado...

[Scott T Smith]

Glue......

I hadn't thought of permanently installing the shims, but that may be the quickest, easiest solution.

[Lee Schierer]

Those flexible magnets are extruded into the threads if you tighten the arbor too much. Arbor nuts only need to be slightly more than finger tight, not torqued to a high degree. Switch to metal, carstock or cardboard shims.

[scott spencer]

My Freud SD208 shims did the same thing. Interestingly, none of the shims from any other set I've owned have done that. I've never priced an aftermarket shim set, but I can't imagine they're too expensive.

[Larry Edgerton]

Scott

On one of my saws the arbor was pressed in and I was able to slide the arbor farther down so that I had a bit more thread. That was an old delta 14" saw, but maybe that would be an option for you?

What kind of saw are you running? My Mini has a one inch arbor that is short but the end of the arbor was threaded on the inside and has a sleave that threads on with an OD of 1 1/4". This sleave is threaded to tighten on to the stub spindle, then the dado blades are slid on, then spacers similar to a shaper, and lastly a washer and bolt to the inside threads on the stub spindle. If your spindle has this threaded hole I could send you a picture of the whole setup laid out as it goes on.

I had to have Forest make me a special 10 inch dado, but I can make dados up to about 2" wide with this setup.

Larry

[Scott T Smith]

Larry, I have a Grizzly G0605X (5 hp, 12" cabinet saw). I've been very pleased with the saw overall, but the arbor is a bit short.

It has a replaceable spindle that allows you to use either a 1" or 5/8" spindle. It looks like they've redesigned the arbor on the 0605X1, so I'll check with them to see if they are interchangable. That may be the simple solution to my problem.

[David Kumm]

Larry, I have a Grizzly G0605X (5 hp, 12" cabinet saw). I've been very pleased with the saw overall, but the arbor is a bit short.


It looks like they've redesigned the arbor on the 0605X1, so I'll check with them to see if they are interchangable.

I think you can order a second arbor f rom Grizzly for dados. They are reasonable. The OWWM guys use them with the Delta- Rockwell 12-14 as they are copies. Dave

[Scott T Smith]

Those flexible magnets are extruded into the threads if you tighten the arbor too much. Arbor nuts only need to be slightly more than finger tight, not torqued to a high degree. Switch to metal, carstock or cardboard shims.

Lee, thanks for the info. I've probably been over-tightening the arbor.

[Scott T Smith]

I think you can order a second arbor f rom Grizzly for dados. They are reasonable. The OWWM guys use them with the Delta- Rockwell 12-14 as they are copies. Dave

Thanks Dave. I'll definitely look into this.

[Gary Muto]

My Freud SD208 shims did the same thing. Interestingly, none of the shims from any other set I've owned have done that. I've never priced an aftermarket shim set, but I can't imagine they're too expensive.

About $12.50 at Lee Valley. Plus any collateral damage. I usually wait for free shipping but it still costs me! :)
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=30063&cat=1,41080,51225

My local Woodcraft used to stock them and that's where I bought mine.

[Scott T Smith]

About $12.50 at Lee Valley. Plus any collateral damage. I usually wait for free shipping but it still costs me! :)
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=30063&cat=1,41080,51225

My local Woodcraft used to stock them and that's where I bought mine.

Thanks Gary. I need to pick my wife up at the airport this afternoon, and there is a woodcraft store not too far away. I might just stop by there on the way.

[Ole Anderson]

Your post makes me glad that I upped the ante and went with the dail-a-dado version.

[Rod Sheridan]

Your post makes me glad that I upped the ante and went with the dail-a-dado version.


Or a Euro saw that doesn't have an externally threaded arbour..........Rod.