Stanley #32 Restoration Question

[Bob Waltemate]

I am in the process of restoring an old Stanley 32 transitional plane back to something that is usable. I picked this up at a flea market for next to nothing thinking it may be good for parts. After removing all of the years of dirt and rust caused by abuse and neglect, I found very nice wood with no finish and no japaning on any of the metal parts. All of the parts are there, I think and the mouth is surprising tight.

I have refinshed the wood with MinWax Tung Oil Finish and I am pleased with the outcome. Using Tom LaRussa's formula and techniques for japaning, I refinished the main casting for the body today and it turned out well also, not perfect but very nice. Now for my question (I bet you thought I'd never get to the point). When I mounted the freshly japaned metal main casting onto the wooden body, the two unfinished flat head screws stick out like a sore thumb. Were the heads of these japaned origianlly? Or are they left unfinished? I think they need to be toned down a bit after I cleaned them, maybe something like a bluing used on firearms. Or japaning? Does anyone have any suggestions?

And yes, pictures will be posted, but probably not for another week.

Thanks, Bob

[Bruce Page]

Bob, you can buy a small bottle of touch up bluing at most gun shops. The brush on bluing works well for small parts like screws.
I'm looking forward to the pics - I've only recently learned what a transitional plane is! :o

[Bob Smalser]

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/4029780/49877179.jpg

Most of these have considerable mouth wear....and even transitionals in new condition came with wide mouths for softwood that are easy to tighten up for hardwood or finer shavings:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=8351&highlight=woodies

For cold bluing, I strongly recommend OxphoBlue phosphate bluing from Brownells.com. Sporting Goods store cold blues aren't near as durable or prevent rust as well in comparison.

Wood Central articles section has several articles on japanning, and many use plain old black Hammerite equipment paint.

[Bob Waltemate]

Thanks Bob, great information on replacing the sole, if needed. I will see how things work after I get it back together and then decide. I have a #26 also that needs rehabbed and it will need some work on the mouth for sure. I think it was OK until the previous owner put the plane together wrong and shipped it to me. The blade got into to mouth during its travels. It may be a candidate for a whole new sole using Ipe.

Is the Oxpho bluing available at gunsmiths or can I only get it through Brownell's? I think bluing would be more appropiate in this case rather than trying to japan just the heads of these screws. I just don't like the looks of the raw steel against the newly japanned casting. I need to do something!

Bob

[Bob Smalser]

Brownells sells to everybody by mail....you just won't get the professional discount is all.

Buff the steel to a high shine. Degrease with trichloroethylene solvent (wear rubber gloves), swab on Oxpho and allow to set, then degrease a pad of #0000 steel wool and apply more Oxpho with it. The harder you rub and the more coats, the deeper the finish. You can get it so water puddles on it.

I blue almost all my tools out here in the wet, as they live in damp boat sheds. Drives the collectors nuts, but all my tools get used hard and often get wet.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/3302197/42016074.jpg

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/3302197/61866115.jpg

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5090019/76085129.jpg

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/3955069/50554506.jpg

[Bob Waltemate]

Here are the pictures I promised of the Stanley 32 that I am restoring. The japanning on the lever cap and frog turned out much better than the main body. I used the same batch both times, but I kept the mixture warm the second time. The rosin melted at the higher temperature, so the finish is smoother on the lever cap and frog.

I used bluing on the steel screws to tone the raw steel look. My thanks to Bob Smalser for heading me in the right direction. I really like the way they look.

I still need to do some work on the blade and cap iron. Right now it won't do much of anything a plane is supposed to do. But it is 1000% better then when I started. I least it now looks like a plane!

Bob

[Roy Wall]

Bob,

That looks terrific my friend........great job!!

[jeremy holloman]

Dadburn it, now you've gone and inspired me to tune up an old Kleen Kutter transitional I have. Oh well, there goes the weekend. Good job, by the way, the pictures look great.