Help with selecting proper Blum Tandem hardware

[John Schumer]

I am trying to understand the Blum catalog, but I must be stupid!

I need to install two slide out shelves in the bottom of two faceframe cabinets.
I want to use the Tandem soft closing slides.

I think I need the B562H slides
I need the slides to be full extension,
The cabinets are 24" deep and I need the shelf to be as long as possible.
Shelf will carry about 40 pounds.
Are the B562H 5330B what I need?
Locking device # BT51.1700P?
Tandem roll out shelf block #BT51.7000?
Thanks For Any Help!
John

[Brian Jarnell]

I am trying to understand the Blum catalog, but I must be stupid!

I need to install two slide out shelves in the bottom of two faceframe cabinets.
I want to use the Tandem soft closing slides.

I think I need the B562H slides
I need the slides to be full extension,
The cabinets are 24" deep and I need the shelf to be as long as possible.
Shelf will carry about 40 pounds.
Are the B562H 5330B what I need?
Locking device # BT51.1700P?
Tandem roll out shelf block #BT51.7000?
Thanks For Any Help!
John

Wouldn't the agents rep be the best qualified to answer that?

[Sam Murdoch]

If you truly just want shelves with no side and no backs the Blum Tandems won't work as the hole required at the back which engages the Tandem slide is 15/16" above the the top surface of the slide. I guess you could do it with a 1-1/8" thick shelf or at the least add a short back to the shelf.

Another and perhaps better option would be these http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog-product.php?p_ref=259940
also Grant/Hettich makes some side/bottom mount types that could work.

[Peter Quinn]

The B562H 5330B is the one I use for standard depth cabinets along with Locking device # BT51.1700P for roll out trays. I think this gives you some front to back adjustment so you clear an inset door, I imagine you could also make it work with the standard BT51.1700 locking device if you wanted to save money, I wouldn't bother on just two units.

The Tandem roll out shelf block #BT51.7000 are an aid if you are using a plywood tray type shelf with just two sides and front, no back. They will keep the back of the slides aligned against the sides of the pull out shelf. On a regular drawer box the bottom lip of the box itself would be notched to perform this roll, and a hole is drilled into the rear of the box. You could certainly include a short back on your pull out shelves that would make those blocks unnecessary, and would also help keep things from diving off the back of the pull out tray.

http://www.wwhardware.com/blum-tandem-roll-out-shelf-bracket-bt51-7000/

Follow this link and look at the second picture to the bottom left of the screen for a diagram to help understand. If your pull out is literally just a shelf as in the picture these blocks may help you, but you can easily construct the shelf to work without them.

[Peter Quinn]

If you truly just want shelves with no side and no backs the Blum Tandems won't work as the hole required at the back which engages the Tandem slide is 15/16" above the the top surface of the slide. I guess you could do it with a 1-1/8" thick shelf or at the least add a short back to the shelf.

Another and perhaps better option would be these http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog-product.php?p_ref=259940
also Grant/Hettich makes some side/bottom mount types that could work.


Sam, blum under mounts will definitely work for this application. That hole is 15/16" from the "bottom" of a standard drawer box with a 1/2" lip below the drawer bottom. But the hole is only 7/16" from the bottom of the shelf or drawer bottom, so on a 3/4" shelf, it still works fine. And the plastic blocks the op mentioned are available to mount to the back of a slab shelf to provide the hole and keep the drawer slide aligned if so desired. I'm thinking it would be a small issue on two pull outs to simply glue a 1 1/4" wood strip to the back of the shelf to perform the same function, or even give it a bit of projection above the shelf so things don't tend to slide over the back of the shelf. Yes you should have a "skirt" all the way around the shelf for aesthetics, but it still works without one.

[Sam Murdoch]

Sam, blum under mounts will definitely work for this application. That hole is 15/16" from the "bottom" of a standard drawer box with a 1/2" lip below the drawer bottom. But the hole is only 7/16" from the bottom of the shelf or drawer bottom, so on a 3/4" shelf, it still works fine. And the plastic blocks the op mentioned are available to mount to the back of a slab shelf to provide the hole and keep the drawer slide aligned if so desired. I'm thinking it would be a small issue on two pull outs to simply glue a 1 1/4" wood strip to the back of the shelf to perform the same function, or even give it a bit of projection above the shelf so things don't tend to slide over the back of the shelf. Yes you should have a "skirt" all the way around the shelf for aesthetics, but it still works without one.

Sorry, yeah, you are right the hole is really only 7/16" of an inch up from the top of the slide I forgot to factor in the 1/2" drop of the sides. OOPS. Never mind :rolleyes: :D I should know better, my drawer boxes are built with 1/2" bottoms attached to the backs - I don't do the cutout, but I use Blum Tandems nearly exclusively.

[John Schumer]

Thanks guys,
I should have stated that the shelf is going to be 3/4" prefinished maple ply with a 1-1/2" solid maple skirt all the way around.
I usually use the Blum Tandems but I have not used them in a pull out shelf application before.
I wasn't sure if I needed those rear blocks, but thanks to you guys I can now see that I don't.
I was planning on using the Blum bottom mount brackets for this application as well.
Thanks,
John

[Mark Blum]

Just a thought: you might want to consider the Tandems without Blumotion. It's not a big issue but sometimes waiting for the shelf to close before you can close the door can be annoying.

[Peter Quinn]

Just a thought: you might want to consider the Tandems without Blumotion. It's not a big issue but sometimes waiting for the shelf to close before you can close the door can be annoying.

I've tried the non blumotion ones, and they really slam their way home. So it depends on what is on the shelf. For pots/pans that rattle, not so good hearing the loud "CRASH" each time. If you put hinges with blumotion on the doors, it sort of cancels the slow shelf closing effect IME.