Strop Compound Question

[Dustin Keys]

My summer project is to work on freehand sharpening. I'm itching to get back to something related to woodworking, but It's 120* in my shop so working on sharpening indoors is about as close as I'm going to get for now. I'm a fairly new woodworker and my sharpening skills leave a lot to be desired, so this is practice I really need anyway.

I'm going to be using George Wilson's setup (DMT extra course when necessary, Spyderco medium, Spyderco fine, strop) freehand. I decided to commit to this setup with these stones because it obviously works and it will last a very long time. George charges his strops with metal polishes, which is what I plan to do. I don't have any of the ones he has mentioned using though, so I'm not sure which of the ones I have would be best.

I've got quite a bit of scrap leather to make the strop from (planning to glue it to a piece of MDF). The metal polishes I already have are Mothers Mag Polish, Blue Magic, and Brasso. My first instinct was to use the Blue Magic, but it leaves a protective silicone barrier which may be a bad idea for WW tools. I like the way it works, but I don't know if the silicone content might cause me finishing issues down the road.

Are any of these suitable for a strop compound? I can go buy something else if I need to, but I would prefer to use something I already have if possible.

D

[David Weaver]

I don't think their abrasive content is high enough. On top of that, your spyderco fine once it's worn in will be a very very fine stone, and you might get just as much effect from bare leather.

If you want to use compound, I would lean toward something like simichrome or autosol (if you can find it locally) but better in the long term go toward a green compound that has chromium oxide in it and not too much other stuff. Most of the compounds (like simichrome and autosol) will have particles on them as large as the particles in your stones. Most of the wheel polishes will be a large quantity of slop.

[Dustin Keys]

I don't think their abrasive content is high enough. On top of that, your spyderco fine once it's worn in will be a very very fine stone, and you might get just as much effect from bare leather.

If you want to use compound, I would lean toward something like simichrome or autosol (if you can find it locally) but better in the long term go toward a green compound that has chromium oxide in it and not too much other stuff. Most of the compounds (like simichrome and autosol) will have particles on them as large as the particles in your stones. Most of the wheel polishes will be a large quantity of slop.

Thanks that is what I needed to know! I can't find simichrome or autosol around here, which is why I was hoping to use something I already had. Those are two that George has mentioned using I think. I was assuming that just about any metal polish would work since those two did but wanted to ask first. I don't want to use the wrong product, so I guess I'll have to order something. My goal here is to order what I really need and know works, learn to use it, use it, and never think about sharpening again :D. I can be a little obsessive, so I'm trying to get a working system and learning to use it and then move on with my woodworking. Otherwise, I might become the guy that is always obsessed with new and different ways to sharpen that might give me a better/different edge instead of actually building things.

I'm kicking myself because I just ordered a new grinding stone from TFWW this week and didn't add the green compound to the order. I had thought about it while looking around but forgot to add it before I checked out. It's already shipped...


D

[David Weaver]

Well, you can get one of those green sticks, or you can go to "star shaving" and get green chromium oxide either in a semi paste or in a powder. It's not particularly expensive, and the stuff at star is just chromium oxide, no large particles of aluminum oxide.

I think you'll find as that spyderco breaks in, that you'll get an excellent edge with it, and even with a weak compound on leather the leather itself will remove any wire edge and you'll have an excellent edge.

The spydercos are a little bit pickier and harder to use than some of the "easy" stones that are out there now, but they can operate in a wider range than their grit level itself suggests. Once you get your routine with them (in terms of conditioning or cleaning the surface or whatever), they're really great. I have not gotten an edge on a razor on any synthetic stone that matches the spyderco UF after it's settled in and the surface is glassy. But fresh out of the box, it's fairly coarse and aggressive, maybe more like a 6k stone. Plenty fine enough for woodworking at that level, you just get to choose if you'll keep the surface scuffed and fast, or glassy and super fine.

[Jim Koepke]

Dustin,

Check your local listings for Lapidary or Jewelry supplies.

I bought my green stick at a "rock shop." It works fine on leather for stropping blades.

One thing to remember with stropping is if you do too much you can dull the blade. 5 - 10 strokes per side should be good.

Lapidary shops also have other items and polishing compounds that may be of interest to wood workers.

jtk

[Bill White]

My strop has green compound on one side, and alum. oxide on the other.
Bill

[Randy Karst]

Dustin,

My .02 cents; I've used the ubiquitous green compound and as well Flexcut Gold compound and both were serviceable. Then, upon a recommendation, I tried White Gold compound (available from Treelineusa.com), what a difference, cuts faster and leaves a highly polished edge that I much prefer to either of the afore mentioned compounds. Happy Stropping!

[John Coloccia]

You can order simichrome from woodcraft, or drive 50 miles to Dallas and pick it up in person. Some auto parts stores carry it too....and motorcycle shops...and jewelry supply shops too. Also available off Amazon. It's good stuff.