MM20 1" carbide blade tension.

[Kyle Rosenberger]

This is a great site.

I took delivery of a Mini Max MM20 Bandsaw about 2 1/2 weeks ago. I had a problem setting it up because the lower guide would not move back far enough to clear the teeth on a 3/4" blade with the teeth overhanging the front of the wheel. That problem is now resolved.
I have done test cuts with the 3/4" blade & 1/4" blades & the saw is great.
I am now trying to use the 1" carbide blade.
The problem I am having is setting the blade tension. I have a blade tension gage. The manual says it should be set between 15,000 & 30,000 lbs. I had to use both hands on the wheel just to get the gage to 15,000 lbs.
Am I doing something wrong?

[Jim Becker]

Welcome to the Creek!

No, you are not doing anything wrong! But you have a very wide and heavy band combined with a big-butt tension spring. It takes two hands to handle a whopper... ;) (My MM16 is the same way...)

[Mark Singer]

I seem to disagree on this one. With my Agazanni...the blade is set between 20 and 25 on the internal gauge on the saw. This is visible through the small window on the face. To reach that tension...it is not that difficult to turn the wheel. I don't kow if that means 25K since it is an Italian saw. The bottom line is that it cuts great and resaws 12" boards and the cut is planner not bowed vertically. I would not tension more than necessary to get a good straight cut when resawing...that is more important than the gauge reading. Now maybe on the MM it is a little more difficult to turn...? I would experiment with scraps and see what tension brings the best results.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I seem to disagree on this one. With my Agazanni...the blade is set between 20 and 25 on the internal gauge on the saw. This is visible through the small window on the face. To reach that tension...it is not that difficult to turn the wheel. I don't kow if that means 25K since it is an Italian saw. The bottom line is that it cuts great and resaws 12" boards and the cut is planner not bowed vertically. I would not tension more than necessary to get a good straight cut when resawing...that is more important than the gauge reading. Now maybe on the MM it is a little more difficult to turn...? I would experiment with scraps and see what tension brings the best results.

Mark, I would guess that if you're going by the "internal guage on the saw" that you aren't really getting anywhere near the 25K reading in actuality. According to everybody including the manufacturer these guages are only approximate, very approximate. Another clue is that you say you are not not turning the wheel that hard. Of course your end result says it all but I don't think your blades are tensioned to near what you might think. I have a MM16 and I agree you don't have to tension a 1" blade that high to get good results and that's all that counts. BTW nice saw you have there; it sounds like a beast:) Alan

[Mark Singer]

Alan,

It is a Agazzani 20" ...To me the number is only a number....on smaller blades I listen for the tone when I pluck it... The results are the important thing. The scale on my saw ends at 30...if I went more than that I think that is a clue something is wrong...it wasn't designed or required to go that high. When you add excessive tension it stresses the bearings, the blade, the tires , etc....it is not a good idea ...IMHO. The stress gauges are a formula, but your own feel of te machine is what is really important. ...When my grandmother (and yours too probably) used to cook, she could never give a recipe...."a little salt...a little pepper...." How much?...we will never know...it just tasted wonderful!


Mark, I would guess that if you're going by the "internal guage on the saw" that you aren't really getting anywhere near the 25K reading in actuality. According to everybody including the manufacturer these guages are only approximate, very approximate. Another clue is that you say you are not not turning the wheel that hard. Of course your end result says it all but I don't think your blades are tensioned to near what you might think. I have a MM16 and I agree you don't have to tension a 1" blade that high to get good results and that's all that counts. BTW nice saw you have there; it sounds like a beast:) Alan

[Kyle Rosenberger]

Thank You for the replies. I tried some cuts in cherry & spruce with the tension on the 1" carbide blade set at 16,000 psi. The results were much better than I ever dreamed they would be. I cut some veneer at 1/32". The thickness was consistent throughout & the surface was very smooth. I am very impressed with this saw. The only thing I am sad about is that I did not buy a good band saw years ago.

[Mark Singer]

Based on those specs it is running perfect!
Thank You for the replies. I tried some cuts in cherry & spruce with the tension on the 1" carbide blade set at 16,000 psi. The results were much better than I ever dreamed they would be. I cut some veneer at 1/32". The thickness was consistent throughout & the surface was very smooth. I am very impressed with this saw. The only thing I am sad about is that I did not buy a good band saw years ago.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Alan,

It is a Agazzani 20" ...To me the number is only a number....on smaller blades I listen for the tone when I pluck it... The results are the important thing. The scale on my saw ends at 30...if I went more than that I think that is a clue something is wrong...it wasn't designed or required to go that high. When you add excessive tension it stresses the bearings, the blade, the tires , etc....it is not a good idea ...IMHO. The stress gauges are a formula, but your own feel of te machine is what is really important. ...When my grandmother (and yours too probably) used to cook, she could never give a recipe...."a little salt...a little pepper...." How much?...we will never know...it just tasted wonderful!

Mark,

I agree and my grandmother was a great cook who never used a recipe.